5 Costly Mistakes to Avoid When Opening Vintage UNC Penny Tubes (1960s Edition)

I’ve opened hundreds of vintage UNC penny tubes from the 1960s. And let me tell you—I’ve made (and learned from) every mistake on this list. If you’ve ever wrestled with a shrink-wrapped 1964 roll that just won’t open, you know the frustration. These old plastic tubes were never meant to survive 60 years sealed shut. But with the right approach, you can avoid the costly errors most collectors make when trying to open them.

1. Assuming All Tubes Are Created Equal (And Treating Them That Way)

Not all 1960s plastic tubes are the same. I learned this the hard way—cracked a precious 1960-D roll by treating a soft, shrunken tube like a tough modern one. Big mistake.

Tube types vary widely: some are rigid Meghrig tubes, others are flimsy “shrinky-dink” wraps, and many have friction-fit caps. Using the same opening method for all? You’re asking for trouble.

Why This Is a Problem

The plastic in older tubes—especially from the 1960s—was often softer and more heat-sensitive. Over decades, it shrinks, becomes brittle, and loses elasticity. Slamming, clamping, or freezing these tubes doesn’t help. It breaks them—and can damage your prized uncirculated pennies.

What NOT to Do

• Never hammer or slam the tube on a hard surface—even with a towel. It dents coins and shatters plastic.

<

• Skip unprotected pliers or vices, even with a rag. Metal tools create invisible stress fractures.

<

• Don’t assume freezing helps. For many vintage plastics, cold actually makes things worse by shrinking the tube *more* than the coins.

Prevention & Recovery Strategy

Start by identifying your tube type:

• Thick-walled Meghrig tubes: Best opened with gentle, controlled heat.

<

• Soft, shrink-wrapped tubes: Heat is your ally. Avoid impact or freezing.

<

• Friction-fit clear tubes: May need a light touch—but never force.

Pro Tip: For thick tubes, use a pipe cutter + vise grip combo. Lightly score along the side, then gently pry open with a flathead screwdriver. This keeps coins safe and the tube reusable for display.

2. Using the Freezer Method Without Understanding Thermal Dynamics

I’ve seen collectors swear by freezing tubes. But it backfires more often than it works. Why? Because vintage plastics react differently than you’d expect.

Copper expands and contracts slowly. But many 1960s plastics (like PVC or polyethylene) have a much higher thermal expansion rate—up to 200 µm/m·K, compared to copper’s 17. That means the plastic shrinks more than the coins when cold, often tightening the grip.

The Science Behind the Mistake

Freezing doesn’t always loosen tubes. In fact, it can make them:

• More brittle and prone to shattering
• Tighter around the coins

<

• More likely to micro-fracture when handled

Warning Signs You’re Doing It Wrong

• Coins feel *more* stuck after freezing
• The tube cracks when you tap it
• You hear a “snap” right out of the freezer—that’s a red flag

Better Heat-Based Alternatives

Boiling water method (ideal for soft, shrink-wrapped tubes):

1. Pull the caps off first.
2. Stand tubes upright in a deep pot. Fill with water just below the top.
3. Heat to just below boiling—look for small bubbles, not a rolling boil. This prevents water from getting inside.
4. Heat for 3–5 minutes.
5. With tongs and an oven mitt, tap the open end down on a towel. Coins should slide out clean.

For stubborn cases: Reheat the base if needed. Skip the oven—it’s too easy to melt the plastic. A low-heat hairdryer works for localized warming—just don’t go overboard.

3. Rushing the Process (And Damaging Coins in the Process)

I get it—you want those coins out fast. But speed kills value. I once mangled a 1960-D roll using a hacksaw, thinking I was being careful. Lesson learned: slow and steady wins every time.

What NOT to Do

• Never use a hacksaw blade without extreme caution—even a tiny slip scratches the coin’s surface.
• Don’t leave acetone on too long—it can dissolve plastic in under a day and leave residue on coins.
• Don’t skip the post-open inspection—some coins stick at the bottom and need another round.

Recovery Strategy: Slow and Steady Wins

For acetone:

1. Submerge the tube in a sealed jar of acetone.
2. Check every 12 hours. When the plastic softens, peel or slice it open gently.
3. Never leave it for days—plastic can turn to mush.

For mechanical opening: Use a small pipe cutter to slice the tube into sections. This lets you remove it without touching the coins. Save the cap if you want to repurpose the tube later.

4. Ignoring the Value Threshold (Time vs. Material Worth)

Here’s a reality check: not every roll is worth opening. A 1960s UNC roll might seem like a treasure, but if it’s full of common dates, it’s only worth a few bucks.

Pre-1982 pennies are 95% copper and worth about $0.03–$0.05 each. A full roll? Maybe $1.50–$2.50. Spend 20 minutes trying to open it—and damage one coin—and you’ve lost money.

When to Walk Away

• Face value + melt value under $2.50? Consider keeping it sealed.
• No rare dates or varieties? Don’t risk damage.
• Tube is already cracked or crumbling? Acetone might be your only safe bet.

Smart Prioritization

Focus on opening rolls with:

• Known key dates (like 1960-D or 1964-D)
• Potential full red gem pennies
• Verified OBW (original bank wrapped) status

For low-value rolls, selling them sealed can be smarter. Some collectors pay a premium for untouched vintage tubes—exactly as they were in the 1960s.

5. Not Having a Recovery Plan for Failed Openings

Even the best plans fail. The tube cracks. A coin bends. The plastic melts. Without a plan, you’re left with a mess—and no way to fix it.

Warning Signs of Imminent Failure

• Plastic cracks when you handle it
• Coins are stuck at an angle
• Acetone causes clouding or warping

Recovery Tactics

• For cracked tubes: Use tweezers or a soft brush to pull coins from shards.
• For bent coins: Gently roll between a book and a cutting board—never press.
• For melted plastic: Soak in warm soapy water, then swipe with a cotton swab.
• For stuck coins: Warm the base with a hairdryer, then nudge with a plastic spudger.

Conclusion: Protect Value, Not Just Coins

Opening 1960s vintage UNC penny tubes isn’t just about getting the coins out. It’s about preserving their condition, value, and history. The five mistakes I’ve covered—wrong tube ID, misusing temperature, rushing, ignoring value, and skipping a backup plan—are why so many collectors end up with damaged coins and lost value.

Key Takeaways:

• Use heat, not cold, for most vintage tubes.
• Match your method to the tube type—Meghrig, shrink-wrapped, or friction-fit.
• Use precision tools (pipe cutter, screwdriver, tongs)—not brute force.
• Only open high-value rolls.
• Always have a recovery plan.

When in doubt? Leave it sealed. A sealed 1960s tube has its own charm—and collector value. But if you’re opening it, do it with care, patience, and respect. Your coins—and your wallet—will thank you.

Related Resources

You might also find these related articles helpful:

• How to Extract UNC Pennies from 1960s Shrink-Wrapped Tubes in 5 Minutes or Less (No Hammering, No Mess) – Need to solve this fast? I found the quickest way that actually works consistently. Ever stared at a vintage plastic coi…
• The Underground Guide to Freeing UNC Pennies from 1960s Plastic Tubes (What the Pros Never Tell You) – Ever stared down a 1960s penny tube, wondering why your “gentle coaxing” feels more like wrestling a greased…
• I Tried 7 Methods to Free Stuck UNC Pennies from 1960s Plastic Tubes – Here’s What Actually Works – I tested every trick in the book—and some you’d never guess—to free valuable UNC pennies from stubborn 1960s plastic tub…