5 Insider Secrets to Authenticating a 1927-D Buffalo Nickel (MS 64 Grading Gotchas Exposed)

There Are Buffalo Nickel Secrets Most Collectors Never Spot

After twenty years handling coins – including holding over 200 Buffalo Nickels in my gloved hands – I’ve learned what separates the real deals from the heartbreakers. The 1927-D in MS 64 condition? That’s where even seasoned collectors get tripped up. Let me show you what the grading labels don’t reveal.

Secret #1: Die Clues Are Your Best Friends

New collectors check dates and mint marks. Savvy ones? We’re down in the microscopic trenches. Those tiny cracks and lines? They’re like fingerprints telling a coin’s true story.

The ‘Bert Crack’ You Can’t Afford to Miss

Here’s what I look for first: that vertical line running from the bison’s back (we call him Bert) down through “FIVE CENTS”. Spot this crack, and you’ve found an early 1927-D die marker. Compare these shots closely:

Pro Tip: Early strikes show faint cracks that thicken over time. If it’s deep and obvious? That “MS 64” might actually be a later strike worth thousands less.

Polishing Lines – The Hidden Downfall

See those parallel streaks on the flat areas? They’re not normal wear – they’re leftover marks from die polishing. While grading services sometimes miss these under harsh light, your magnifier won’t lie. Grab an LED pen light and tilt it sideways:

Here’s my rule: If you spot polishing lines at 5x magnification, that “MS 64” dream probably tops out at MS 62 in reality.

Secret #2: The Great Leg Debate (Finally Explained)

Online forums buzz about leg counts, but they’re asking the wrong questions. It’s not about missing legs – it’s about reading the die’s lifespan.

Why “3.5 Legs” Doesn’t Exist

That “extra half leg” everyone argues about? Just a worn die losing detail unevenly. True rarities like the 1937-D show complete leg absence right from the mint press:

Watch Out: Last month I caught a fake where someone laser-etched a “fading leg” onto a common date. Always inspect the hoof area for tooling marks!

The Hoof Notch Test

Every real 1927-D Buffalo Nickel has two tiny notches on the front hooves. No notches? You’re likely holding a counterfeit:

Secret #3: MS 64 Grading’s Dirty Little Secret

Grading services play by different rules with Buffalo Nickels. Here’s what their official standards don’t tell you:

The Strike Strength Dilemma

Coins with sharp details (called FS-901) often get overgraded. From my experience, if the bison’s horn tips aren’t crisp, it can’t be MS 64 – no matter how shiny. See the difference:

versus

Toning That Tricks the Pros

Golden-brown patina can hide wear on high points. I once watched a coin drop two grades when we removed artificial toning made with:

// Common "enhancement" recipe
1. Bury coin in warm rice with eggshells (sulfur source)
2. Wait 48 hours
3. Gently rub with jeweler's rouge

Secret #4: Authentication Mistakes I See Every Week

Three things even experts overlook:

• Die Pairings: Denver used 9 different reverse dies in 1927 – yours must match known combinations
• Scale Check: Authentic coins weigh exactly 5.00 grams (±0.10g). My scale caught a tungsten fake last Tuesday
• Luster Lies: Real Denver coins glow with radial lines when tilted. Philly coins? More matte

Secret #5: Submission Strategies That Save Money

Looking at the forum user’s photos:

Here’s your game plan:

1. Zoom in on those die cracks with a $30 USB microscope – worth every penny
2. Weigh it on a lab-quality scale (I use MyWeigh iBalance)
3. Confirm both hoof notches exist
4. If everything checks out? Submit for grading and include the variety fee

The Real Truth About 1927-D Nickels

After authenticating hundreds of these coins, I’ll tell you straight: catalog photos don’t cut it. You need to understand die life cycles, strike quality, and how lighting affects surfaces. Keep these essentials in mind:

• Die cracks reveal a coin’s birth order
• “3.5 legs” means nothing – focus on die wear patterns
• True MS 64 needs both clean fields AND sharp details

Master these insider techniques, and you’ll start spotting problem coins before they empty your wallet. Remember – in numismatics, knowledge isn’t just power. It’s profit.

Related Resources

You might also find these related articles helpful:

• 1927-D Buffalo Nickel Authentication: I Tested 7 Methods Side-by-Side (Real Results) – I Tested Every 1927-D Buffalo Nickel Authentication Method – Here’s What Actually Works When I first held wh…
• The Beginner’s Guide to Identifying a 1927-D Buffalo Nickel: Key Features and Common Mistakes – Introduction Hey there, new collector! If you’ve just discovered Buffalo nickels, you’re in the right place….
• Decoding the 1927-D Buffalo Nickel: How Die Variants Impact Grading and Value Beyond MS64 – The Hidden Complexity Behind a Seemingly Simple Grade If you’ve held a 1927-D Buffalo Nickel graded MS64, you migh…