7 Deadly Grading Mistakes That Tank 1867 Shield Nickel Values (How to Avoid Them)

I’ve Watched Collectors Lose Thousands on These 1867 Nickel Mistakes – Here’s How You Won’t

In my 10 years handling Shield Nickels, I’ve witnessed the same seven errors slice coin values in half – sometimes overnight. These aren’t theoretical slips. They’re the actual grading mistakes I see collectors make every week when assessing their 1867 nickels. Let’s fix them before they cost you real money.

Mistake #1: Ruining Your Nickel’s “First Date” With Graders

Why Bad Photos Make Experts Cringe

That glare in your coin photo? It’s hiding dollar signs. Graders can’t give points to features they can’t see clearly. Overexposure specifically murders three key value factors:

• Masking hairline scratches (especially around the shield)
• Flattening the luster difference between AU and Mint State grades
• Faking toning colors (is that pink real or camera trickery?)

My $16 Photography Hack That Works Tonight

Try this while making dinner tonight:

“Grab a Tupperware container and white printer paper. Place your nickel inside, shine two book lights through the sides, and shoot through the top. Flash off – always.” – How I Photograph My Own Coins

Mistake #2: Missing the 1867 Variety Jackpot

How One Line Difference Meant $1,130

Last month, a collector almost sold an F-1101 Doubled Die Obverse nickel for $120 – until they spotted the doubling. It sold for $1,250. With 76 known 1867 varieties, your “common” nickel might be hiding:

The 60-Second Variety Spotter’s Guide

1. Grab any 5x loupe – check date digits for doubling
2. Look for die clash marks at shield points
3. Count reverse leaves – missing ones mean payday
4. Inspect stars for doubling most miss
5. Document cracks near the 3 o’clock position

Mistake #3: Misjudging Surface Marks Like I Did in 2017

When “Scratches” Aren’t What They Seem

Those lines on your shield could be:

• Harmless planchet flaws (no penalty)
• Fatal post-mint damage (kills value)
• Mint-made die polish lines (no issue)

Field Test: Gently drag a cotton swab across the mark. Snags? Likely damage. Glides smooth? Probably mint-original.

Mistake #4: Burning Cash on Wrong Grading Submissions

When Paying $75 Costs You $50

Like Sarah from Nebraska learned: grading her cleaned $120 nickel cost more than it gained. Follow this logic:


if (visible cleaning || bent rim || under $300) {
save your grading fee;
} else if (possible rare variety) {
overnight it to NGC/PCGS;
}


Mistake #5: Color-Blindness on Toned Coins

The Pink Tint That Slashed a $2k Coin to $800

Artificial toning (often from chemical dips) versus natural patina is the difference between applause and rejection at auctions. Authenticity checks:

1. View in morning sunlight – fakes look splotchy
2. Real toning has rainbow color progression
3. Acetone test (pros only) reveals residues

Mistake #6: Underestimating Rim Dings’ Nuclear Impact

How One Tiny Mark Crushed a Coin’s Value

The 4 o’clock rim nick discussed in forums? It’s not just cosmetic. Such damage can:

• Demote AU55 to XF45 ($400 ➔ $240)
• Trigger “details” grading
• Signal deeper metal fatigue issues

Mistake #7: Grading By Gut Instead of Numbers

Why “Looks AU” Isn’t Good Enough

I nearly misgraded my first Shield Nickel using eyeballs alone. Now I always check recent sales:

Bounced Back From Grading Errors? Do This Now

If you’ve made these mistakes (like I have):

1. Reshoot photos using the Tupperware method
2. Email photos to PCGS variety team ($25 consult)
3. Get three collector opinions – eBay forums work
4. For environmental damage – consider NGC conservation

The Real Grading Game-Changer

Grading 1867 Shield Nickels isn’t about perfection – it’s about avoiding these seven costly traps. Remember: that “scratch” might be mint-made, that “common” nickel might be rare, and that “AU55” guess might be $300 off. When your gut says “maybe,” your next move should be to consult a specialist – before your wallet takes the hit.

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