My Insights on the Growing Epidemic of Fake PCGS Slabs
June 19, 2025My Numismatic Journey with the 1863 Story & Southworth Token
June 19, 2025Barber dimes have always caught my eye, and I recently spent some quality time with the 1903 Philadelphia issue. What a fascinating little coin – it really drives home how much there is to learn about grading and preservation.
Grading the 1903 Barber Dime
After handling quite a few of these, I’ve noticed they often land between EF45 and AU50. The real tell? Check how sharp Liberty’s headband looks along the bottom edge, and whether that original mint luster still shows. If the shine has faded, it’ll likely stay in the EF range, but crisp details can bump it toward AU territory.
- Watch those high points: Headband sharpness is your best clue for technical grading.
- Grab the PCGS Photograde guide – it’s gold for comparing your coin against standards.
- Spot check: Any damage or discoloration could mean a “details” grade, which hits value hard.
Tackling That Pesky Green Spot
Ran into a classic bright green PVC spot on one of mine – you’ve probably seen these too. Here’s what worked for me:
- For surface-level spots: Pure acetone (not drugstore stuff) on a cotton swab – just dab, don’t rub.
- Always dunk the whole coin in acetone afterward to avoid weird toning rings.
- If it’s eaten into the surface? Hands off – let a pro handle it or you’ll make it worse.
- Seriously, don’t play chemist on valuable coins. I’ve seen too many ruined by well-meaning collectors.
Stopping Problems Before They Start
Here’s the lesson I learned the hard way: Those green demons usually come from old PVC holders. Now I only use archival flips or slabs – it’s cheap insurance against heartbreak down the road.
Why This Coin Matters
For me, the 1903 Barber dime sums up collecting perfectly: Great coins deserve great care from day one. Yes, top-grade pieces fetch strong money, but even problem coins teach us something. Honestly? Every time I study one, I fall deeper in love with this hobby.