The Hidden Nuances of Grading 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarters: Why Type-1 vs. Type-2 Differences Are Critical

Here’s What Most Collectors Miss About 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarters

Grading 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarters isn’t as straightforward as checking a price guide. I learned this the hard way after mistaking a Type-2 for a high-grade Type-1 – a mistake that cost me nearly $400. The truth? These coins tell two different stories through their designs, and understanding them changes everything about how you grade and value them.

Spotting the Difference: Type-1 vs. Type-2 Designs

These two versions might look similar at first glance, but the details make all the difference in grading and value:

Type-1: The Original (and Controversial) Design

That exposed right breast caused such an uproar in 1917 that the mint recalled the coins. Look for:

• Crisp folds in Liberty’s gown that wear quickly
• Deeply carved shield details
• Strong muscle definition on the standing leg

Type-2: The Quick Fix

Mint engravers hastily added chainmail armor, creating a flatter appearance:

• Softer overall relief makes details less prominent
• Hair and shield elements appear weaker
• More metal remains on high points even with wear

Why Grading These Coins Trips Up Experts

I’ve seen three identical-looking 1917-S quarters get three different grades from reputable dealers. Here’s why:

1. They Wear Differently

Type-1 coins lose breast and leg details first. Type-2 coins show wear more evenly across the entire surface.

2. The Eye Plays Tricks

One collector perfectly captured the dilemma:

“The Obverse looks full XF but the reverse lacks some detail and looks VF-30”

This happens constantly with Standing Liberty quarters.

3. Extra Metal Means Extra Confusion

Type-2 coins often appear higher grade than they are because more metal remains on key features – even when actual detail matches a lower-grade Type-1.

What This Means for Your Wallet

Knowing these differences directly impacts what you should pay:

• Type-1 coins typically sell for 20-30% more in the same grade
• A mere VF20 to VF25 upgrade can mean the difference between $150 and $300
• Registry set collectors will pay top dollar for matching eye appeal

Smart Grading Tactics That Work

After examining hundreds of these, here’s my battle-tested approach:

1. Check These Three Spots First

• Hair details above Liberty’s forehead
• Horizontal lines on the shield
• Definition in the right leg muscles

2. Lighting Matters More Than You Think

I keep a small LED flashlight in my grading kit specifically for SLQs. Proper viewing requires:

• Angled light to reveal detail shadows
• At least 5x magnification (I prefer 10x)
• A plain white background to prevent color distortion

3. Reality Check Your Grades

The market consistently overgrades Type-2 coins by 5-10 points. Protect yourself by:

• Checking recent PCGS/NGC certification reports
• Comparing to slabbed examples at shows
• Remembering SLQs almost always grade lower than other series

The Bigger Picture for Collectors

What we learn from these 1917-S quarters applies to collecting across the board. It’s not just about condition – it’s about understanding how design changes affect wear patterns, grading standards, and ultimately, value. Whether you’re buying your first Standing Liberty quarter or building a complete set, these insights will help you:

• Grade each type by its own standards
• Spot when market prices don’t match technical grades
• Recognize your own grading biases
• Appreciate how history shapes value today

Next time you examine a 1917-S, remember: that tiny chainmail detail makes all the difference between a good deal and a grading disappointment.

Related Resources

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