How to Quickly Grade 1917-S Type-1 vs. Type-2 Standing Liberty Quarters (Solved in Under 5 Minutes)
September 15, 2025Advanced Grading Secrets: 1917-S Type-1 vs Type-2 Standing Liberty Quarters – Pro Techniques for Spot-On Evaluations
September 15, 2025I’ve Seen These Mistakes Over and Over—Here’s How to Avoid Them
Grading 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarters isn’t just tricky—it’s where even veteran collectors lose money. The Type-1 and Type-2 differences are subtle, wear patterns deceive, and strike quality plays tricks on your eyes. After handling hundreds of these coins, I can tell you these five grading mistakes keep happening. Let’s fix that.
Mistake #1: Ignoring the Key Differences Between Type-1 and Type-2
Warning sign: Treating both types like they grade identically.
Big mistake. Here’s why:
- Type-1: Exposed breast, delicate gown lines that wear fast—especially the right leg drapery.
- Type-2: Chainmail armor added over the chest, but the modified leg details hold better.
Pro tip: Keep a Type-1/Type-2 cheat sheet handy. That extra metal on Type-2 coins? It fools graders into thinking they’re better preserved than they are.
Mistake #2: Overgrading Based on a Single Feature
Warning sign: Getting hypnotized by a perfect obverse while ignoring a wrecked reverse.
Real talk: PCGS won’t care if Liberty’s face looks XF if the eagle’s feathers grade VF. I’ve seen collectors lose 30% on auctions this way.
Truth bomb: Your coin’s grade is only as strong as its weakest detail. Period.
Mistake #3: Underestimating Strike Quality
Warning sign: Calling every flat-looking coin “worn out.”
Many 1917-S SLQs left the mint looking soft—especially around Liberty’s head and shield. That mushy knee? Might be the strike, not wear.
Test it: Compare against a confirmed AU sample. If the high points match but details are weak, you’re likely seeing a strike issue.
Mistake #4: Relying Too Heavily on Photos
Warning sign: Grading coins from dealer photos where the lighting hides everything.
Online forums prove this daily—one coin gets guessed anywhere from F12 to XF40 based on the same blurry photo.
Survival rule:
- Demand multiple light angles (try a 45° light test)
- Assume the grade is one full level below what you think—you’ll be right more often
Mistake #5: Neglecting Market Realities
Warning sign: Thinking “maybe the grader will miss that scratch.”
Spoiler: They won’t. That “hopeful VF-30” you bought? Graders called it F-12. Happens weekly.
Market wisdom:
Grade like a pessimist, buy like a skeptic. Professionals see what you wish wasn’t there.
Key Takeaways to Avoid Grading Pitfalls
1. Study type-specific guides—these aren’t generic coins
2. Grade the whole coin, not the pretty half
3. Strike ≠ wear—learn the difference or overpay
4. Photos lie until proven otherwise
5. The market’s brutal—grade tighter than you think necessary
Here’s the hard truth: I’ve watched these mistakes cost collectors more than a nice Type-2 in AU. When that doubtful voice whispers “maybe it’s better than it looks?”—that’s when you walk away or get a second opinion. Your wallet will thank you.
Related Resources
You might also find these related articles helpful:
- How to Quickly Grade 1917-S Type-1 vs. Type-2 Standing Liberty Quarters (Solved in Under 5 Minutes) – Need to Solve This Fast? Here’s the Quickest Grading Method That Actually Works Grading coins like the 1917-S Standing L…
- The Hidden Grading Secrets of 1917-S Type-1 vs. Type-2 Standing Liberty Quarters: An Insider’s Deep Dive – There’s More to Grading Standing Liberty Quarters Than Meets the Eye Most collectors think they understand these c…
- I Graded Every 1917-S Type-1 and Type-2 Standing Liberty Quarter – Here’s What Actually Determines Their Value – Grading Every 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarter: My Hands-On Comparison After handling hundreds of these coins under my lo…