The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Understanding Coin Regrading: The 1880/79-O VAM-4 Example

Starting out in coin collecting? The world of coin regrading can feel like diving into a maze—especially when dealing with rare varieties like the 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar. I remember my first time holding a slabbed coin, wondering: *Could this be worth more if it just got a second look?* That’s where regrading comes in. This guide walks you through the process step by step, using the VAM-4 as our real-world example. Whether you’re just starting your collection or learning how grading really works, you’ll walk away with practical tools—not just theory.

What Is Coin Regrading and Why Does It Matter?

Ever get a coin back from PCGS or NGC and think, “That’s definitely better than MS63”? You’re not alone. Coin regrading is simply resubmitting a slabbed coin to a top-tier grading service (like PCGS or NGC) to see if it earns a higher grade after a second (or third) look.

Why do it? Sometimes graders miss details. Lighting changes. New tools emerge. Or maybe your coin just looks better than it did five years ago. Regrading gives you a shot at unlocking hidden value.

Why Coins Get Regraded

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• Market value: Bumping from MS64 to MS65 can mean doubling a coin’s price—especially with rare dates like the 1880/79-O VAM-4.

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• Human inconsistency: No two graders see every detail the same way. That’s why one submission can differ from the next.

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• Improved condition: A coin might’ve been cleaned or conserved since its first grading, now showing better eye appeal or luster.

The Risks of Regrading

Yes, there’s risk. Submit a coin with altered surfaces, improper cleaning, or hidden damage, and you might get hit with a downgrade—or worse, an “ALTERED SURFACES” sticker on the holder. That label can slash value fast. So before you hit “submit,” know what you’re working with.

Understanding the 1880/79-O VAM-4: A Rare and Valuable Overdate

Meet the 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar—a favorite among variety hunters. This isn’t just any 1880 dollar. It’s an overdate, meaning the die was stamped in 1879, then re-engraved in 1880. The “O”? That’s the mint mark for New Orleans—once a powerhouse of silver output.

The VAM-4 is one of many documented die varieties in the VAM catalog (Van Allen-Mallis), the go-to reference for Morgan dollar collectors. It’s not the rarest, but it’s one of the most visually distinctive—and that makes it a perfect candidate for regrading.

Key Identifiers of the VAM-4

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• Overdate clash: Look closely at the 8 in “1880”—you’ll see the top of a 7 peeking out beneath it.

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• Die break: A tiny crack or chip on the reverse, just below the eagle’s left wing near the rim. Not all have it, but it’s a classic trait.

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• Strong central strike: Most 1880/79-O coins have weak details. But the VAM-4 often shows crisp hairlines and feathers—big points for grading.

This coin’s value lives and dies by grade, eye appeal, and surface condition. A tiny boost in grade can mean thousands of dollars—but only if the surfaces are honest.

Grading Basics: What Do the Numbers Mean?

Coins are graded on the Sheldon Scale, from 1 (barely recognizable) to 70 (perfectly minted, never touched). For regrading, we care about Mint State (MS) grades—MS60 to MS70. These are uncirculated coins.

MS Grading Breakdown (Key Ranges)

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• MS60–MS62 (Uncirculated but marked up): Full luster, but heavy bag marks, hairlines, or friction. Often called “sliders”—they look uncirculated but aren’t pristine.

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• MS63–MS64 (Choice Uncirculated): Cleaner surfaces, strong luster, good strike. These start to attract serious buyers.

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• MS65+ (Gem Uncirculated): Minimal marks, full original luster, and “wow factor” eye appeal. This is where values jump.

Common Misconception: “No Wear = High Grade”

Nope. A coin can show zero wear and still land at MS62—if the luster is dull, scratched, or disrupted. MS grades aren’t just about wear. They’re about how well the coin has preserved its original mint surface.

Pro Tip: On a true MS65, check Ms. Liberty’s cheek and hair. The luster should look frosty and smooth, like fresh snow. If it’s patchy or looks “wiped,” that’s friction—and it kills the grade.

The Red Flags: Haze, Cleaning, and Altered Surfaces

One of the biggest red flags? Haze. That cloudy film on the surface. Sometimes it’s natural toning. Other times? It’s a sign the coin’s been cleaned or chemically treated—and that’s a fast track to a downgrade.

How to Test for Altered Surfaces (The Acetone Test)

Before you spend $100+ on a regrade, test your coin. Here’s how:

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1. Grab 100% pure acetone (not nail polish remover—it has additives).

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2. Drop a tiny amount on the obverse.
3. Instant evaporation? Likely original surfaces. Good to go.
4. Pooling or residue? The coin’s been cleaned. Do not submit for regrade.

WARNING: Never do this on a slabbed coin. Remove it first. Dripping acetone on the holder can damage the label and disqualify the coin.

Other Signs of Altered Surfaces

• Whispy lines across the field—micro-scratches from polishing.

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• Matte spots on raised details, like letters or stars—signs of over-dipping.

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• Luster breaks—look near “E” in “E PLURIBUS” or around stars. If the shine jumps or stops, it’s been disturbed.

How to Assess a Coin for Regrade: A Step-by-Step Checklist

Thinking about resubmitting your 1880/79-O VAM-4? Pause. Do this first.

Step 1: Evaluate the Current Grade

Is it graded by PCGS or NGC? Or a lower-tier service like NTC? Big difference. NTC MS-66 doesn’t equal PCGS MS-66. In fact, it might be closer to MS62–63 by top-tier standards. Know the gap before you pay the fee.

Step 2: Inspect Under Strong Light and Magnification

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• Use a 10x loupe—no compromises.

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• Check Ms. Liberty’s cheek. Even tiny marks count.

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• Look for slide friction—dulling on high points like the cheek or hair. That’s a slider, not a true gem.

Step 3: Test for Surface Integrity

Run the acetone test. If it fails, stop. Consider professional conservation (ACR, CAC, or PCGS-approved) instead of risking a regrade.

Step 4: Photograph Properly

Graders judge submissions based on photos. Use bright, even lighting—no shadows or glare. Take shots of:

• Full obverse and reverse
• Close-ups of the date (to show the 7 under the 8)
• Cheek and hair details
• Reverse fields and edges

Step 5: Choose the Right Service

• PCGS: Tough on eye appeal and surface integrity. Best for high-end coins or competitive registry sets.
• NGC: A bit more forgiving on toning, but zero tolerance for cleaning. Great for toned coins.

Common Misconceptions (And Why They Cost You Money)

Myth 1: “A Higher Grade Is Always Better”

Wrong. A PCGS MS64 is worth more than an MS66 from a no-name TPG. Trust the service, not just the number. Accuracy matters more than a flashy score.

Myth 2: “I Can Regrade Any Slabbed Coin”

Nope. If you crack it out to resubmit, you lose the original certification. Only do it if:

• You’re confident it’ll grade higher
• You’re okay with a possible downgrade or “details” grade

Otherwise, you’re gambling your investment.

Myth 3: “Haze Is Just Toning”

Not always. Natural toning glows and shifts in color. Haze from cleaning? Dull, flat, and uniform. It doesn’t “liven up” the coin—it hides damage.

Conclusion: Your Regrading Roadmap

Regrading a coin like the 1880/79-O VAM-4 isn’t magic. It’s method. Here’s what to keep in mind:

• Start clean: Use the acetone test. No guesswork.
• Focus on luster and surface: It’s not just marks—it’s how the metal flows.
• Know your TPG: PCGS and NGC have different tastes. Match your coin to the right service.
• Photograph like a pro: Bad photos = missed details = missed upgrades.
• Respect the risk: A downgrade or “altered” note can hurt more than help.

You don’t need to be an expert to regrade wisely. You just need patience, good tools, and a little humility. With this guide, you’re not just a beginner. You’re a collector who knows what to look for—and what to avoid.

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