5 Critical Mistakes to Avoid When Regrading Your 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar

I’ve been there. You hold this 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan dollar, hoping a regrade will finally give it the recognition it deserves. But one small mistake can turn that hope into frustration. I’ve watched collectors—myself included—make the same errors. Let’s fix that. Here are the five most common mistakes to avoid when regrading this rare VAM, so your coin gets the fair shot it needs.

1. Misjudging Surface Alterations

Altered surfaces are the silent killers of regrade success. They’re sneaky. They look almost right, but they’re not. And they can tank your coin’s grade—or worse, get it rejected outright.

Warning Signs

When you’re checking the surface, keep an eye out for:

• Haze: That cloudy, foggy film? It’s often a sign of dipping or harsh cleaning. Natural luster should glow, not look like it’s trapped under plastic.
• Luster Breaks: The frosty texture should flow smoothly. If it’s patchy or missing on high points, something’s off.
• Matte Spots: Dull patches where there shouldn’t be? Could be from handling, storage, or worse—intentional dulling to hide flaws.

What Not to Do

Don’t trust your eyes alone. Just because a coin *looks* clean or shiny doesn’t mean it’s natural. I’ve seen coins that sparkled like new, only to find out they’d been dipped a dozen times. Never skip a surface check.

Recovery Strategy

If something feels off, test it:

• Acetone Test: Dab a tiny spot with acetone. If it evaporates fast, the surface is likely original. If it smears or pools, there’s residue—likely from cleaning or preservation.

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• Consult Experts: Get a second (or third) opinion. Forums, local clubs, or trusted dealers can spot what you might miss. I once saved a coin from a bad regrade just by asking a buddy who noticed a tiny wipe I’d ignored.

2. Relying on Inadequate Photos

Photos are your first line of defense when submitting for regrade. But bad ones? They’re worse than no photos at all.

Warning Signs

• Shadow Areas: Harsh shadows hide luster, wear, and even tooling marks. If you can’t see the cap or eagle’s feathers clearly, the grader can’t either.
• Blurriness: Zoom in. Are the stars sharp? Can you see the texture of the metal? Blurry images miss the tiny details that make or break a grade.

What Not to Do

Never submit a regrade with dark, dim, or soft-focus photos. I’ve seen submissions with smartphone shots taken at midnight—under a lamp. It doesn’t work. The graders need to see *your* coin, not a guess.

Recovery Strategy

• Use Bright Lighting: Daylight is ideal. A light tent or two lamps at 45 degrees reduce glare and show true color and luster.

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• Multiple Angles: Front, back, 45-degree tilt, close-ups of the cheek, the cap, the eagle’s neck. More angles = more data.

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• Use a Macro Lens: A $50 lens on your phone can reveal hairlines, die lines, and luster breaks you’d never see otherwise. For a VAM-4, that can be the difference between MS-63 and MS-65.

3. Ignoring Invisible Edge Issues

Here’s a secret: the edge of your 1880/79-O VAM-4 holds clues most people skip. And when it’s in a slab? It’s *silent*. You can’t see it. But that doesn’t mean it’s fine.

Warning Signs

• Slab Restrictions: The plastic holder hides 10% of the coin—often the most telling part. Scratches, nicks, or repair marks are easy to miss.
• Unusual Wear: Dents, bends, or inconsistent reeding? Could be from old repairs or storage damage.

What Not to Do

Don’t assume the slab means “everything’s fine.” I’ve opened slabs for resubmission and found edge nicks that knocked the grade down two points. The slab protects the surface, but not the truth.

Recovery Strategy

• Crack-Out Option: Yes, it sounds scary. But if you suspect edge issues, it’s worth it. A clean inspection can confirm authenticity or expose problems *before* you submit. I crack out coins every time I’m unsure—better to know than to submit a time bomb.

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• Professional Inspection: A trusted dealer can check the edge with tools you don’t have. Many will do it for free if you’re planning to resubmit with them.

4. Misinterpreting Mint State vs. Impacted Surfaces

“Mint State” doesn’t mean “no wear.” It means *no wear* **and** *no impact*. A coin can look uncirculated but still have problems beneath the surface.

Warning Signs

• Friction: Even slight rubbing on the cheek or cap can disqualify a coin from high mint state. The VAM-4 has sharp details—don’t let a little friction ruin it.

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• Absence of Frosty Luster: That creamy, swirling texture? It’s the fingerprint of a true mint coin. If it’s flat or scratched, the grade drops fast.

What Not to Do

Don’t assume “no wear” = “high grade.” I once had a coin that looked perfect—until a grader pointed out micro-scratches from a soft cloth. It went from MS-66 to MS-63. Luster and surface integrity matter more than you think.

Recovery Strategy

• Know the Standards: Study PCGS and NGC guides. Understand what “contact marks,” “hairlines,” and “luster breaks” mean for each grade.

< Study Examples: Compare your coin side-by-side with graded pieces from shows or online. See how the luster moves? That’s what you’re aiming for.

5. Overlooking Third-Party Grading Differences

PCGS, NGC, ANACS, ICG—each has its own “flavor.” And yes, they *do* grade differently. That can be your best friend… or your worst enemy.

Warning Signs

• Grading Inconsistencies: A coin graded MS-66 by a smaller firm might come back MS-63 at PCGS. Not because it’s worse—just because standards differ.
• Subjectivity: One company might overlook a tiny hairline; another might reject the coin for it.

What Not to Do

Don’t assume all slabs are equal. A high grade from a less-known service doesn’t guarantee the same result elsewhere. I’ve seen coins “upgrade” into NGC but get “downgraded” by PCGS for the same flaws.

Recovery Strategy

• Research Companies: PCGS is strict. NGC leans slightly more generous. Know who’s picky about luster, who cares more about marks.

< Pre-Submission Review: Talk to dealers or collectors who’ve submitted the same coin. Ask: “What would PCGS give this? What about NGC?”

• Consider Regrading Multiple Times: If NGC says MS-64 and you think it’s better, *resubmit*. Sometimes it takes two or three tries. I’ve had coins jump two points on the third submission.

Conclusion

Regrading your 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan dollar isn’t about luck. It’s about avoiding the traps that derail so many. Watch for altered surfaces. Take clear, bright photos. Check the *entire* coin—even the edge. Understand what “mint state” really means. And know your grading service. I’ve learned these the hard way, so you don’t have to. Do your homework, get expert eyes, and submit with confidence. Your coin’s true grade is waiting.

Related Resources

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