5 Critical Mistakes to Avoid When Regrading Your 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar
October 1, 2025My 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar Regrade Journey: 6 Months of Haze, Holders, and Hard Lessons
October 1, 2025Want to step up your Morgan Dollar game? These advanced tactics go beyond the basics—no fluff, just real-world insights for serious collectors chasing that elusive bump on a VAM-4.
Understanding VAM-4 Morgan Dollar Nuances
Grading the 1880/79-O VAM-4 isn’t like slapping a number on a common date. These overdates have quirks that tell a story—if you know how to read them. The tiny overlaps, the faint traces beneath the digits, the irregular mint mark placement—they’re all clues. And if you’re aiming for a higher grade, you need to see what most miss.
Identifying VAM-4 Characteristics
- Overdate Evidence: Look closely at the date. See that ghostly “7” and “9” beneath the “8” and “0”? Even slight doubling or misalignment confirms it’s a true overdate—not a repunched date or die mix-up.
- Mint Mark Placement: The ‘O’ mint mark on this variety isn’t just about location—it’s about depth, clarity, and how it interacts with nearby die lines. A shallow or misaligned mark can mimic a fake or raise red flags.
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Haze and Surface Alterations
Haze can kill a grade fast. What looks like natural toning might be residue from old cleaning attempts or chemical treatments. Flip the coin under a desk lamp. Tilt it. Look for cloudy patches or unnatural reflections. Real luster dances. Artificial haze just sits there. And grading services notice—especially when it masks wear or damage.
Advanced Techniques for Pre-Regrade Assessment
Before you spend $50–$100 on a regrade, ask: Is this coin ready to impress? A little prep work can mean the difference between a bump and a head-scratching hold.
Acetone Test for Surface Purity
“Acetone Test: Apply acetone to the obverse. If it evaporates instantly, the coin is likely unaltered. If it pools, further investigation is warranted as it may indicate altered surfaces.”
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- Procedure: Use a drop of acetone on a cotton swab. Dab a small area—not rub. Watch how fast it dries. Test a few spots. Inconsistent behavior? That’s a clue.
- Note: Use this only on coins without sentimental or numismatic value you’d hate to risk. Never on toned coins with collector appeal.
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Edge Examination
Most people never check the edge. Big mistake. The slab hides it, but the edge tells the truth. Remove the coin from its holder (if safe) and inspect under magnification. Look for file marks, machine wear, or reeding inconsistencies. A smudged or flattened edge? That’s a sign of past tampering or improper handling. Grading services flag these fast—and it can tank your score.
Optimizing Lighting and Photography for Submissions
Your photos are your first impression with the grader. Bad lighting or shadows can hide luster, exaggerate marks, or obscure the details that matter.
Lighting Techniques
- Natural Light: Cloudy days are your friend. No harsh glare, no hotspots. Just clean, even illumination that shows the real surface.
- Artificial Light: Use two or three soft sources—no bare bulbs. A $30 light tent makes a huge difference. Shadows kill detail. Fill them in.
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Photography Setup and Angles
“Coin photography isn’t just about clarity—it’s about showcasing the coin’s character and imperfections.”
- Straight-on Shots: Get dead-on overhead. No tilt. This shows how the coin sits in a holder and lets graders assess centering and surface flow.
- Oblique Lighting: Shine light from the side at a low angle. Watch how it reveals die clashes, luster flow, and tiny scratches the naked eye misses.
- Macro Shots: Use a macro lens or high-res camera. Capture die breaks, mint mark details, and the faintest overdate traces. These are what separate VAM-4s from fakes or mismatches.
Grading Subtleties: From MS62 to MS66
The jump from MS62 to MS66 isn’t just about scratches. It’s about how the coin *feels*—its luster, its strike, its soul. Here’s what separates the good from the great.
Luster and Surface Quality
- Luster: Bright, swirling luster with no breaks? That’s MS65+ territory. Dull spots or flat areas? That’s friction—and it costs you points.
- Surface Marks: One deep mark behind Liberty’s neck? That’s an MS62 killer. But a few light ticks? Forgivable in MS64/65 if they don’t disrupt the luster field.
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Strike and Eye Appeal
“Strong strikes with full details and high contrast often command premium grades.”
- Strike Quality: Check the eagle’s wings and Liberty’s hair. Crisp inner feathers? Sharp hairlines? That’s a full strike—worth more than a weak one, even at the same technical grade.
- Eye Appeal: Two MS64s can look very different. One has dull luster, off-center strike. The other? Bright, centered, with bold details. Guess which gets the premium?
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Power User Tips for Submission and Grading
You’ve done the work. Now submit smart. These aren’t beginner tricks—they’re what seasoned collectors use to tilt the odds in their favor.
Choosing the Right TPG (Third-Party Grading Service)
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- PCGS: Known for strict grading, especially on older coins. If you’ve got a top-tier VAM-4, this is where it gets recognized—and valued.
- NGC: More consistent on toning and luster. Great population data. If your coin has eye-popping appeal, they’ll often reward it.
- Hybrid Approach: Some collectors send toners to NGC, top pop coins to PCGS. Match the service to the coin’s strengths.
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Submission Strategies
“Strategic submissions: Submit coins to services with backlogs for faster turnaround, or to those with higher grade populations for potentially higher grades.”
- Cross-Submission: Got a coin back as MS64? If you think it’s MS65, try the other service. Different graders see things differently—especially on luster and eye appeal.
- Regrade Fees: Don’t chase a point on a $100 coin. But if a bump from MS64 to MS65 could double its value? Worth the fee.
Conclusion: Mastering Advanced VAM-4 Grading
Grading the 1880/79-O VAM-4 isn’t about memorizing rules. It’s about seeing what others overlook—the overdate whisper, the luster flicker, the edge whisper. It’s about knowing when to test, when to photograph, and when to hold back.
Use the acetone test. Inspect the edge. Shoot with care. Submit with strategy. These aren’t just steps—they’re habits of the collectors who consistently land the bumps.
You don’t need luck. You need precision. And now, you’ve got the tools. Go get that upgrade.
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