Can You Still Find 18 mm Medalets Circa 1860–1885 at Flea Markets and Pawn Shops?

The days of easy finds are mostly gone—but there is still treasure out there if you know exactly what you are looking for.

I have been buying and evaluating coins and medals for decades. I have walked through hundreds of flea markets and pawn shops, and I can tell you that pieces like 18 mm medalets from the 1860–1885 era still surface, often misidentified or drastically underpriced. The challenge is not just finding them; it is knowing what you are looking at, how to talk to sellers, and how to evaluate raw pieces on the spot.

This guide is built around a real collecting project: the study of 18 mm medalets struck by the US Mint and private makers like William Key and George Soley. It is a niche area, but the same strategies apply to many overlooked series. I will walk through sourcing, haggling, spotting underpriced items, working with pawn brokers, and doing quick raw evaluations in the field.

Why 18 mm Medalets Are Still Worth Hunting

A niche with real complexity

Within this small diameter range, collectors are already documenting around 150 varieties, and new die combinations keep appearing. Some are US Mint issues, others are private productions from William Key, George Soley, and related engravers. The series overlaps with Civil War tokens, patriotic medalets, and early political issues.

Because of that complexity, many sellers do not know how to catalog them. You will often see them grouped as “old brass medallets” or “Civil War tokens,” even when they are technically different issues. That is where a picker can quietly add value.

What makes these pieces collectible

• Historical period: 1860–1885 covers the Civil War, Reconstruction, and the early Gilded Age.
• Mint and private makers: US Mint, William Key, George Soley, and other minor engravers.
• Small size, big variety: 18 mm is easy to overlook, but there are many die pairings and even restrikes.
• Affordable entry point: Common types can still be found at low prices when misidentified.

Sourcing Inventory at Flea Markets and Pawn Shops

What to ask for, and how to ask

Most vendors will not have a section labeled “18 mm medalets.” You need to translate your goal into language they understand. I typically ask for:

• “Any old Civil War tokens or patriotic medals?”
• “Do you have any small brass or bronze medals, especially old political ones?”
• “Any lot coins or exonumia that don’t have a clear price yet?”

The goal is to get them to bring out boxes of mixed exonumia and bulk coin lots. That is where small medalets hide.

When to show what you know

At flea markets, I stay general until I see something interesting. Then I can mention specific makers (“I collect US Mint and Soley issues”) or types (“Lincoln Broken Column medalets”) to signal that I am serious, not just curious.

At pawn shops, I am more direct. I tell them exactly what series I collect and that I buy in small quantities. Pawn brokers respond well to clarity: “I collect small 18 mm medalets from the Civil War era, especially Soley and Key. If anything like that comes in, I would like to see it.”

Spotting Underpriced Items

Look for misidentified or underdescribed pieces

Underpriced pieces usually fall into a few categories:

1. Generic labels: “old medal,” “brass token,” “Civil War piece.”
2. Wrong metal: Listed as “brass medal” when it is actually bronze or copper.
3. No attribution: No mention of Julian numbers, maker, or die variety.
4. Lot pricing: Small medalets mixed in with common tokens at a flat per-item price.

For 18 mm medalets, a common mistake is grouping everything under “Civil War token” or “Lincoln medal” without distinguishing originals from restrikes, or US Mint from private issues. That confusion is where your knowledge pays off.

Key markers that signal higher value

In hand, I look for:

• Size: Precisely around 18 mm. Bring a small gauge or ruler.
• Subject matter: Lincoln, eagles, shields, columns, patriotic slogans.
• Maker clues: “SOLEY,” “W. H. KEY,” or US Mint style.
• Surface quality: Darker, proof-like originals vs lighter, matte or “pebbly” restrikes.

Even without a scale, you can sort by weight and color. Bronze pieces feel different from brass, and original patinas often look different from later strikings.

Quick Raw Coin and Medalet Evaluation in the Field

Separating originals from restrikes

One of the best examples comes from the Lincoln Broken Column medalets, a type that overlaps with the 18 mm world. Collectors often find these at flea markets and pawn shops. The difference between an original and a 20th-century restrike can be significant.

In my experience grading these pieces, the first thing I look at is color and surface texture:

• Originals:
  • Darker, even patina.
  • Reflective, proof-like fields when not heavily worn.
  • Sharp detail in recesses.
• 20th-century restrikes:
  • Lighter, often described as “beige” or dull brown.
  • Matte or “pebbly” fields, not mirror-like.
  • In extreme cases, dirt or debris trapped in recessed areas, making the texture visible even in photos.

This is not a perfect test, but it is fast. When I pick up a small Lincoln medal, I tilt it under the light. If the fields look dull and pebbly rather than reflective, I start thinking restrike.

What to check before you pay

1. Diameter: Is it truly in the 17.5–18.5 mm range?
2. Metal: Bronze, copper, brass, or white metal? Weight and ring can help.
3. Subject and legend: Can you read enough to identify a possible Julian number or maker?
4. Condition: Major damage, scratches, or cleaning will reduce value.
5. Surface texture: Proof-like vs matte; original patina vs artificial color.

I always carry a loupe, a small scale, and a phone with reference images. Even a quick check against known varieties can prevent overpaying or missing a rare pairing.

Building Relationships with Pawn Brokers

Why pawn brokers matter

Pawn shops are one of the most overlooked sources for small exonumia. People bring in inherited collections, estate lots, and single pieces they do not understand. The staff often do not know how to research a 18 mm Soley medalet, so they price it to move.

Your edge is consistency. If you visit the same shops regularly and treat the staff fairly, they start calling you when something comes in.

How to position yourself

When I introduce myself, I keep it simple:

• “I collect small medalets and tokens from the Civil War era, especially pieces by the US Mint, William Key, and George Soley.”
• “I buy in small quantities and pay in cash.”
• “If you get in any small bronze or brass medals, even if you are not sure what they are, I would like to take a look.”

That message tells them:

• You are a serious buyer, not a browser.
• You are not trying to flip their entire inventory.
• You will not waste their time on common modern items.

Follow-up builds trust

After a purchase, I make a point to:

• Pay close to my first offer or agree on a fair price quickly.
• Explain, briefly, what I think the piece is and why I am interested.
• Leave a card or number and say, “Call me if anything similar comes in.”

Over time, I have had pawnbrokers set aside small lots of “old medals” for me before they even hit the counter. That relationship is worth more than any single find.

Haggling Strategies That Work

Start with value, not price

When I see a promising 18 mm medalet, I do not open with a lowball. Instead, I ask:

• “Where did this come from?”
• “Do you know the history of this piece or this lot?”
• “How did you price it?”

This does two things. It shows respect, and it reveals how much the seller actually knows. If they say, “I have no idea, it was in an estate box,” I know I have room to negotiate.

How I structure offers

My typical approach:

1. Identify the piece: “This looks like a 19th-century bronze medalet, possibly a Soley or Key issue.”
2. Set expectations: “In this condition, these usually sell in the $XX–$XX range.”
3. Make a fair opening offer: Slightly below the low end of that range.
4. Be ready to meet in the middle: If they push back, I move up in small increments.

I avoid haggling over a few dollars on low-value items. If a piece is $10 and I think it is worth $15, I pay $10. The goodwill is more important than the margin.

When to walk away

I walk away when:

• The seller insists on retail or above for a common type.
• The piece is damaged and priced as if it were choice.
• The seller is clearly testing me with unrealistic numbers.

Walking away politely keeps the door open. I often say, “I appreciate your time. If you change your mind or get something similar, I am still interested.”

Using Collector Networks to Source and Verify

Turning a forum thread into a sourcing tool

The original request for 18 mm medalets is a perfect example of how collectors can help each other. Someone is trying to document all known varieties, including obscure dies and pairings. That kind of project creates a natural marketplace:

• Collectors post photos of pieces they have.
• Experts identify varieties, originals vs restrikes, and possible errors in references.
• Owners learn what they have and whether it is worth keeping, selling, or trading.

If you are a picker, you can use these networks in two ways:

1. Before you buy: Post a photo and ask, “Is this an original or restrike? Is this a known variety?”
2. After you buy: Share what you found. That builds your reputation and encourages others to bring you leads.

Learning from corrections and updates

In the discussion of Lincoln Broken Column medalets, for example, collectors pointed out that:

• Some pieces are 20th-century restrikes, not originals.
• Julian-listed varieties may not actually exist, such as PR-37 with an incuse P on Lincoln’s truncation.
• Restrikes often have matte, pebbly fields and lighter color, while originals are darker and more reflective.

These are exactly the kinds of details that help you avoid overpaying at a flea market or pawn shop. When you hear, “Julian may have been wrong about this variety,” you know to double-check before assuming rarity.

Practical Field Kit for Medalet Hunting

When I head out to flea markets and pawn shops, I carry:

• Loupe (10x): For checking surfaces and details.
• Small digital scale: To confirm expected weight range.
• Ruler or gauge: To verify diameter around 18 mm.
• Phone with reference images: Known varieties, Julian numbers, and comparison photos.
• Cash in small bills: For quick, clean transactions.
• Soft flips or small boxes: To protect any pieces I buy.

This kit is small enough to fit in a pocket or small bag, but it lets me make informed decisions on the spot.

Conclusion: The Collectibility and Historical Importance of 18 mm Medalets

Small 18 mm medalets from the 1860–1885 era sit at a fascinating intersection of American history. They include official US Mint issues, private productions by engravers like William Key and George Soley, and a wide range of political and patriotic themes. Many are tied to the Civil War, Lincoln, and the turbulent decades that followed.

For collectors, these pieces offer:

• Historical depth: Direct links to 19th-century politics, memory, and commemoration.
• Variety and complexity: Hundreds of die pairings, restrikes, and edge treatments.
• Affordable entry points: Especially when misidentified at flea markets and pawn shops.
• Ongoing discovery: New varieties and unknown dies still surface.

For pickers and dealers, they represent a realistic source of inventory. The key is to specialize enough to recognize what others miss, build relationships with pawn brokers and collectors, and know how to evaluate raw pieces quickly in the field.

The days of easy finds may be mostly gone, but 18 mm medalets and similar overlooked issues are still out there. If you know exactly what you are looking for, and you are willing to put in the legwork, you can still build a meaningful collection and a profitable inventory from flea markets, pawn shops, and the networks that connect them.

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