Complete Beginner’s Guide: How to Safely Remove UNC Pennies from 1960s Plastic Coin Tubes

So you’ve got a stack of old plastic coin tubes from the 1960s—maybe pulled from your grandpa’s attic, or scored at a flea market—and now you’re facing a real coin conundrum: Uncirculated (UNC) Lincoln Head pennies stuck inside like they’re welded in place. I’ve been there. I remember my first time looking at one of those stubborn, shrunken tubes, wondering if I’d ever get those shiny pennies out without wrecking them. Good news? You can. And you don’t need to be a pro. This guide is for real beginners who just want to free their coins safely, without the guesswork or damage.

Whether you’re cleaning out a family collection, exploring estate finds, or just curious about vintage coin storage, here’s how to handle these tricky tubes—step by step, with zero hype and all practicality.

Why 1960s Plastic Coin Tubes Are So Tricky

These old tubes aren’t like the rigid, modern ones you see today. Back in the 1960s, manufacturers used softer, more flexible plastics—think polyethylene—that weren’t built to last 60+ years. Over time, that plastic does something weird: it shrinks and clings to the coins, almost like a second skin. That’s why people call them “Shrinky Dink” tubes. It’s not a brand name. It’s a warning.

Unlike today’s coin rolls with snap-on or screw-top lids, these had simple friction-fit caps—no seals, no threads. Now? Age turns that snug fit into a nearly permanent bond. Moisture, temperature changes, and plastic creep make the tube grip the coins with surprising force. Try pulling them out? Good luck. Slamming it on a table? That’s a one-way ticket to scratched coins.

Key Characteristics of 1960s Coin Tubes

• Soft, flexible plastic (polyethylene or similar—not rigid)
• Friction-fit caps (friction that’s now more like fusion)

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• Shrinkage over time (tightens around coins like cling wrap)
• No standardized brands (Meghrig, Whitman, and others—all behave slightly differently)

Why Are the Coins Stuck? The Real Science (It’s Not Just “Old Plastic”)

Ever wonder why some methods work and others don’t? It has everything to do with how metal and plastic respond to heat and cold.

Copper in pre-1982 pennies expands and contracts at about 17 parts per million per °C. But the plastic in those old tubes? It can expand or contract up to 200 ppm/°C—way more than copper. That means when you heat the tube, the plastic swells *faster* and *more* than the coins inside. That’s your window of opportunity.

Thermal Takeaway: Heat the tube, and the plastic loosens its grip. Cool it, and both materials shrink—but the plastic might crack or stay stuck. That’s why freezing rarely works. Heat? That’s your friend.

This is also why the freezer method—so often recommended online—often fails or even *worsens* the problem. Cold makes old plastic brittle. One wrong tap, and you’re crumbling the tube instead of freeing the coins.

Step-by-Step: 5 Ways to Get Your Pennies Out (No Brute Force Needed)

1. The Thermal Shock Method (Boiling Water) – Your First Move

This is the go-to method for beginners. It’s safe, uses common kitchen tools, and works over 80% of the time.

1. Pop off both caps first. If they’re stuck (see below), don’t force them—use heat.
2. Place the tube upright in a pot. Cover with water—but keep it below the top. Never submerge.
3. Heat to just before boiling (small bubbles forming, not a rolling boil). Too hot? Water can creep in.
4. Let it soak for 3–5 minutes. The plastic expands, loosening its grip.
5. Using tongs and an oven mitt, grab the tube and tap the open end down on a towel. The coins should slide out.
6. No luck? Repeat for the bottom coins—they take longer to heat.

Pro Tip: A simmer, not a boil, is all you need. Gentle heat = less risk of water seepage and better control.

2. The Cut-and-Split Technique (Hacksaw Blade) – When Heat Isn’t Enough

When the tube won’t budge, it’s time for precision. This method saves the coins but not the tube. That’s usually fine.

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1. Clamp the tube in a vise or between two sturdy blocks.

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2. Use a thin hacksaw blade and cut lengthwise along the tube—stop when you’re 1/16 inch from the coin. Don’t cut into the coin!
3. Insert a large flat-blade screwdriver into the cut and twist gently to split the plastic.
4. Peel back the tube and lift the coins out by their edges.

Safety Note: Wear safety goggles. Work slowly. A saw blade can jump if you rush.

3. The Pipe Cutter Method (For Heavy-Duty Tubes)

Some tubes—like those from Meghrig—are thicker and tougher. A pipe cutter makes clean, precise cuts without excess force.

• Use a 3/4″ to 1″ adjustable pipe cutter.
• Clamp it around the tube and tighten slightly.

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• Rotate the cutter, tightening a little after each turn. Make shallow, slow cuts.

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• Once cut, the tube opens easily—no need for extra tools.

4. The Acetone Soak (The Nuclear Option – Use Sparingly)

Acetone dissolves certain plastics fast. But it’s aggressive. Not for valuable tubes or coins with sentimental value.

1. Place the tube in a glass jar or bowl.
2. Cover completely with acetone (100%, or pure nail polish remover).
3. Wait 24–72 hours. Check daily.
4. The plastic softens and crumbles away. Free your coins.

Warning: Acetone is flammable and fumes are strong. Work outside or in a ventilated area. Avoid skin contact. Never use near open flame.

5. The “No-Tool” Floor Tap (For Minor Sticking)

Sometimes, the bottom coin or two just need a nudge.

1. Place a thick towel on a hard floor or counter.
2. Hold the tube open-end down.
3. Tap it firmly but not violently on the towel.
4. Repeat until coins shift and start to slide.

Never hit it with a hammer or drop it on concrete. You’ll dent the coins. Trust me, I’ve seen it happen.

Common Myths (And Why They Cost You Time and Coins)

❌ Myth: The Freezer Method Always Works

Yeah, it *might* help in theory. But in practice? Cold shrinks both plastic and copper—and old plastic gets brittle. I’ve seen tubes crack and coins stuck worse. Heat expands plastic more than copper. That’s the real advantage.

❌ Myth: Pliers Are Safe for Cap Removal

Nope. Even with tape, pliers crush the soft plastic or slip and scratch the coins. Wrap the cap in a rag and twist by hand. If it’s stuck, use the boiling water method for 2 minutes first—heat loosens the cap too.

❌ Myth: All Stuck Tubes Are Hopeless

False. 9 out of 10 tubes can be opened safely—if you use the right method. Smashing or drilling? Save that for scrap. If you think you’ve got UNC 1960s pennies with red luster (shiny, no wear), or rare dates like 1960-D or 1964, take your time. It’s worth it.

Getting Started: Your Real-World Checklist

• Identify the tube—soft, hard, thin-walled, or thick (Meghrig)?

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• Look at the coins—shiny and fresh? Or dull and worn?
• Start with boiling water—it’s the gentlest and most effective first step.

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• Grab the right tools: towel, tongs, oven mitt, hacksaw, pipe cutter (if needed).

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• Work in a clean, safe space—no clutter, good lighting.
• Label and store coins right away—use coin flips or tubes to prevent tarnish.

When to Stop: Ask Yourself These Questions

Not every roll is worth hours of effort. A roll of 1960s pennies is worth about 50 cents face value. But if you suspect something special—like Uncirculated (MS-63 or higher) coins or rare dates—it’s worth the time.

Ask yourself:

• Are the coins shiny, with full red luster and no wear?
• Are they from a specific year or mint you’re collecting?
• Could you sell or trade them to a dealer or collector?

If the answer’s no, consider saving the effort. If yes? Proceed with care. And take photos before you start. You’ll thank yourself later.

Bottom Line: It’s About Smarts, Not Strength

Getting Uncirculated pennies out of 1960s plastic tubes isn’t about muscle. It’s about knowing how plastic and copper react, using the right method for the job, and putting the coins first.

Boiling water? Your best first move. Hacksaw or pipe cutter? For stubborn cases. Acetone? Last resort. And forget the freezer—heat is your real ally.

No hammering, no pliers, no shortcuts that risk damage. Just patience, a few tools, and a little science. Before you know it, you’ll be pulling out clean, undamaged coins—and feeling like a pro.

Now go get those pennies. And if your first try doesn’t work? That’s okay. I didn’t get it right the first time either. Just try again. You’ve got this.

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