How I Finally Cracked the 1960s Penny Tube Problem Without Damaging My Coins

Introduction: A Sticky Coin Situation

I’ve been there. Staring at a stack of 1960s Lincoln Head pennies, sealed tight in those old plastic tubes—plastic that’s basically fused to the coins after 60 years. I tried prying, freezing, even gently whacking the thing on the counter. Nothing worked. And if you’re holding a tube of Uncirculated (UNC) pennies, the last thing you want is to scratch, dent, or flatten one.

After ruining one tube (RIP, 1962 UNC), I finally cracked it. No guesswork. No luck. Just a method based on how plastic and copper behave under heat. If you’ve got vintage penny tubes that won’t budge, this is how I got mine open—safely, without a single mark.

The Core Problem: Why These Tubes Are So Hard to Open

Those 1960s plastic coin tubes aren’t like the rigid ones we use today. They’re made from a softer, more flexible polymer that slowly shrinks over decades. Over time, the plastic wraps around the coins like shrink wrap on a steak dinner. It’s not just the cap—it’s the entire cylinder clamping down on the stack.

Why Standard Methods Fail

• Freezing only works in theory: Cold makes plastic shrink more than copper, right? Sure. But the plastic “remembers” its original shape and snaps back almost instantly, squeezing the coins again the second it warms up.
• Hammering or smashing? I tried it once. One tap too hard, and a beautiful red UNC penny looked like it had been run over. Not worth it.
• Hacksaws and cutting tools: A single slip, and you’ve gouged a coin worth $50 into one worth $1. Even a tiny nick kills the grade.

“These tubes grip coins like they were fused by time itself. The solution requires understanding thermal expansion, not brute force.”

The Solution: Heat-Based Expansion (The Science-Backed Method)

I tested acetone, freeze sprays, oil, and even a hair dryer on high. Nothing worked—until I remembered a basic physics fact: plastic expands faster than copper when heated. That’s the key. Warm the tube, and the plastic loosens while the coins stay put. Here’s the method I now use every time—no fails in over 50 tubes.

Step 1: Prep Your Workspace

• Remove both caps. Both ends.
• Grab a deep glass or stainless steel pot—something that won’t warp.
• Stand the tubes upright, so water reaches 90% of the tube height. Keep the top dry.
• Have heat-resistant tongs and an oven mitt ready. A clean towel nearby helps catch the coins.

Step 2: Apply Gentle, Steady Heat

• Fill with water up to just below the rim. You don’t want water sneaking in.
• Bring it to a gentle simmer—small bubbles, not a rolling boil. Too hot, and you risk steam or water creeping in.
• Let the tubes soak for 3–5 minutes. This gives the plastic time to expand evenly.

Step 3: Extract the Coins Immediately

• Use tongs to lift the tube out. Hold it with the mitt.
• Turn it open-end down and tap the base lightly on the towel. The coins should slide right out.
• Stuck? Back in the water for another 60 seconds. Focus on the bottom if the last few won’t budge.

Step 4: Handle Stubborn Cases

If the stack still resists, try these:

• Oven-assisted heating: Preheat to 200°F (93°C). Wrap the tube in a cloth, stand it upright on a baking sheet, and heat for 3–5 minutes. Dry heat expands the plastic without moisture.
• Hair dryer (medium heat): Aim at the sides for 60–90 seconds, rotating as you go. Great for spot issues.

Pro Tip: Never go above 250°F (121°C). Too hot, and the plastic can warp or crack unpredictably.

Alternative: Acetone Dissolution (For Non-Valuable Coins)

For common-date pennies or rolls where you don’t care about the tube, I’ve used acetone. It works, but it’s slow and messy—and not for collectors who value pristine coins.

Drop the whole tube in a sealed glass jar filled with 99% pure acetone. Let it sit 5–7 days. The plastic softens and breaks down. The coins slide right out. But: acetone can leave a sticky residue and dull the plastic. I only use this for copper pennies I’m not planning to grade.

How to Do It Safely

• Use 99% pure acetone—not drugstore nail polish remover (it has additives).
• Submerge the tube completely in a sealed glass jar.
• Keep it in a ventilated area (fumes are flammable).
• After, rinse coins in warm, soapy water to remove residue.

It takes time, but it’s hands-off. Just don’t rush it.

When to Use Mechanical Methods (Last Resort)

I avoid cutting anything unless I have to. But if heat and solvents fail, here’s how I do it—carefully.

Pipe Cutter + Vise Grip Technique

• Clamp the tube in a vise (pad the jaws with cloth or rubber).
• Use a small pipe cutter to score a shallow line down the tube. Go slow. Stop when you feel resistance from the coins.
• Slide a flat-blade screwdriver into the cut and twist. The tube splits open.
• Coins drop out clean.

Hacksaw Blade (Precision Cutting)

• Use a fine-tooth blade (24–32 TPI).
• Cut lengthwise, stopping 1–2 mm before you hit the coin edge.
• Pop it open with pliers or a screwdriver.

Warning: Even the best cuts can leave micro-scratches. Only use this for common-date coins.

What NOT to Do (Common Mistakes)

• Don’t freeze the tubes: Cold doesn’t expand the plastic enough, and condensation creates moisture risk.
• Don’t use metal hammers or impact tools: One slip, and a red penny turns brown.
• Don’t force with pliers or vise pressure: Crushes the tube and rolls the edges of the coins.
• Don’t use commercial coin cleaner solvents: They strip toning and leave harmful residues.

Bonus: Preserving and Evaluating the Coins

Once they’re out, handle them like you would a newborn—bare hands leave oils and fingerprints. Use cotton gloves.

• Inspect under magnification. Look for luster, toning, and any contact marks.
• Store UNC coins in 2×2 flips or air-tite capsules—acid-free, archival quality.
• If you’ve got a rare date or high-grade coin, send it for professional grading. A 1960s UNC penny in MS-65 can be worth hundreds.

And remember: pre-1982 pennies are 95% copper. They have melt value, but I keep mine as collectibles—unless I know they’re common.

Conclusion: The Best Method for Your Situation

After every trial, every mistake, and every sigh of relief, here’s what I know for sure:

• For valuable UNC coins: Use the controlled heat method. It’s the safest way to preserve value.
• For common rolls: Try acetone soak or pipe cutter to save time.
• Always protect the coin: A little patience beats a big mistake. One scratch can erase decades of collecting value.

This isn’t just about opening a tube. It’s about respecting what’s inside. Those 1960s pennies survived time, storage, and stubborn plastic. With the right method, they can keep their story—and their worth—intact.

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