How I Mastered Grading 1917-S Type-1 vs. Type-2 Standing Liberty Quarters (Complete Guide)

The 1917-S Quarter Mystery That Drove Me Crazy (Solved)

Let me tell you about the night I nearly gave up coin collecting. I had three different “experts” grade the same 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarter with wildly different results. That’s when I realized: grading these coins isn’t just tricky—it’s a puzzle that requires the right approach. After months of research and countless missteps, I finally cracked the code. Here’s everything I wish I’d known from the start.

Why the 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarter Breaks Brains

The 1917-S comes in two radically different versions:

• Type-1: The original “bare breast” design (minted January-June 1917) that caused public outrage
• Type-2: The modified “chainmail” version (July-December 1917) that saved the Mint’s reputation

Here’s what makes them grading nightmares: the high-relief Type-1 wears completely differently than the redesigned Type-2. I learned this the hard way when a coin I thought was VF-20 came back from PCGS as F-12.

The Telltale Signs: Type-1 vs Type-2 Wear Patterns

Forget everything you know about grading other quarters. These two types require special attention to different areas:

• Type-1: Liberty’s exposed leg and breast will show wear first – sometimes dramatically
• Type-2: The chainmail helps but creates new problem areas like the shield and head

My Field-Tested Grading Method

1. Where to Look (And Where Not To)

For Type-1:

• Run your eye along Liberty’s right leg – if the lines are crisp, you’re likely looking at an XF or better
• Check the breast detail – any visible definition means it hasn’t circulated much

For Type-2:

• Focus on the chainmail texture – flat spots mean wear
• Examine the shield carefully – the original strike was often weak here

2. The Comparison Trick That Saved Me Hours

Here’s what changed everything for me: I started keeping two browser tabs open – PCGS Photograde for Type-1 and NGC’s guide for Type-2. The difference was night and day.

Pro tip: A VF-20 Type-1 will show partial leg detail, while a VF-30 Type-2 might look better but have fading shield lines.

3. The Two Deadly Sins of SLQ Grading

• Overgrading Type-1: That beautiful high relief wears faster than you’d think – be ruthless
• Undergrading Type-2: The chainmail can hide wear – rotate the coin under good light

Case Study: How I Learned the Hard Way

Let me show you how this works in practice with two coins from my collection:

• Type-1 Example: I thought the strong gown lines meant XF, but the weak reverse told the real story – PCGS agreed with my revised VF-20 assessment
• Type-2 Example: Better leg definition but a soft shield – my VF-30 guess matched the grading service

3 Tricks the Pros Don’t Tell You

• Use morning sunlight – artificial light plays tricks on SLQ surfaces
• Start with the reverse – it’s often more honest about wear
• When two grades seem possible, always go lower – the market will thank you

Final Thoughts: What Actually Works

After grading hundreds of these coins (and making every mistake possible), here’s what I’ve learned:

1. Each type has its own “tell” – master Liberty’s leg for Type-1 and chainmail for Type-2
2. Reference images are your best friend – don’t grade from memory
3. Grading is part science, part art – experience matters more than rules

Now when I look at a 1917-S, I see the story the coin is telling rather than just guessing. That’s the difference between frustration and confidence in coin collecting.

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