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September 15, 2025The Hidden Nuances of Grading 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarters: Why Type-1 vs. Type-2 Differences Are Critical
September 15, 2025The 1917-S Quarter Mystery That Drove Me Crazy (Solved)
Let me tell you about the night I nearly gave up coin collecting. I had three different “experts” grade the same 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarter with wildly different results. That’s when I realized: grading these coins isn’t just tricky—it’s a puzzle that requires the right approach. After months of research and countless missteps, I finally cracked the code. Here’s everything I wish I’d known from the start.
Why the 1917-S Standing Liberty Quarter Breaks Brains
The 1917-S comes in two radically different versions:
- Type-1: The original “bare breast” design (minted January-June 1917) that caused public outrage
- Type-2: The modified “chainmail” version (July-December 1917) that saved the Mint’s reputation
Here’s what makes them grading nightmares: the high-relief Type-1 wears completely differently than the redesigned Type-2. I learned this the hard way when a coin I thought was VF-20 came back from PCGS as F-12.
The Telltale Signs: Type-1 vs Type-2 Wear Patterns
Forget everything you know about grading other quarters. These two types require special attention to different areas:
- Type-1: Liberty’s exposed leg and breast will show wear first – sometimes dramatically
- Type-2: The chainmail helps but creates new problem areas like the shield and head
My Field-Tested Grading Method
1. Where to Look (And Where Not To)
For Type-1:
- Run your eye along Liberty’s right leg – if the lines are crisp, you’re likely looking at an XF or better
- Check the breast detail – any visible definition means it hasn’t circulated much
For Type-2:
- Focus on the chainmail texture – flat spots mean wear
- Examine the shield carefully – the original strike was often weak here
2. The Comparison Trick That Saved Me Hours
Here’s what changed everything for me: I started keeping two browser tabs open – PCGS Photograde for Type-1 and NGC’s guide for Type-2. The difference was night and day.
Pro tip: A VF-20 Type-1 will show partial leg detail, while a VF-30 Type-2 might look better but have fading shield lines.
3. The Two Deadly Sins of SLQ Grading
- Overgrading Type-1: That beautiful high relief wears faster than you’d think – be ruthless
- Undergrading Type-2: The chainmail can hide wear – rotate the coin under good light
Case Study: How I Learned the Hard Way
Let me show you how this works in practice with two coins from my collection:
- Type-1 Example: I thought the strong gown lines meant XF, but the weak reverse told the real story – PCGS agreed with my revised VF-20 assessment
- Type-2 Example: Better leg definition but a soft shield – my VF-30 guess matched the grading service
3 Tricks the Pros Don’t Tell You
- Use morning sunlight – artificial light plays tricks on SLQ surfaces
- Start with the reverse – it’s often more honest about wear
- When two grades seem possible, always go lower – the market will thank you
Final Thoughts: What Actually Works
After grading hundreds of these coins (and making every mistake possible), here’s what I’ve learned:
- Each type has its own “tell” – master Liberty’s leg for Type-1 and chainmail for Type-2
- Reference images are your best friend – don’t grade from memory
- Grading is part science, part art – experience matters more than rules
Now when I look at a 1917-S, I see the story the coin is telling rather than just guessing. That’s the difference between frustration and confidence in coin collecting.
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