How I Solved the GTG 1873 Indian Head Cent Grading and Lighting Challenge (Step-by-Step Guide)

I hit this exact wall with my 1873 Indian Head Cent—and after trial, error, and way too many bad photos, I cracked the code. Here’s the real fix that worked for me.

The Problem: A High-Stakes Coin Grading and Lighting Dilemma

When I first got my 1873 Indian Head Cent, I *knew* it was special. The luster danced under my loupe, and the surface looked clean—but how do you capture that magic in a photo? And how do you convince a TPG it’s the real deal without it getting lost in translation?

My “simple” submission turned into a months-long slog: lighting that flattened the luster, colors that looked “too red” online, and a coin that nearly graded lower than it deserved. Then I got my grade back: **MS66BN**. Turns out the issue wasn’t the coin—it was *how* I was showing it.

Here’s exactly how I fixed it.

The First Hurdle: Lighting Setup That Doesn’t Lie

Most coin photos? They’re lying to you. Either they’re flat and lifeless, or they’re so “enhanced” they look like fantasy. I learned this the hard way.

My first setup? A ring light. Everyone said it was “perfect for coins.” But all it gave me was a halo effect that erased the depth and hid the coin’s true character.

Step 1: Abandon the Ring Light

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• Ring lights flatten luster. No dimension = no real texture.

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• That “even glow” hides hairlines and chatter—exactly what graders look for.

Step 2: Adopt a 9-12-3 Lighting Configuration

I switched to a **three-point LED setup**—positioned at 9, 12, and 3 o’clock. It was a total shift, but it worked. Here’s why:

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• Directional light shows how the luster flows across the fields.
• Shadows and highlights reveal surface texture, not just color.
• No more “washed out” look. The coin finally looked *alive*.

Step 3: Use Tunable White LEDs (Budget-Friendly Option)

I didn’t spend hundreds on studio lights. I used **Ikea Jansjo LED work lamps**—$20 each. Set to 5000K, they’re shockingly close to natural daylight. Here’s my go-to configuration:

Light 1 (9 o'clock): 70% brightness, 5000K
Light 2 (12 o'clock): 50% brightness, 5000K
Light 3 (3 o'clock): 70% brightness, 5000K

Tilt each light at 30–45 degrees. This avoids “hotspots” and keeps the light moving across the coin like real sunlight.

Step 4: Diffusion Matters

Even directional light can be too harsh. My trick? **White baking paper**. Cheap, easy, and it does the job:

• Place it between the light and the coin to soften the beam.

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• Eliminates harsh reflections that distort luster and toning.
• No “blooming” around high-shine areas—just clean, natural light.

The Second Challenge: Color Accuracy in Digital Representations

Ever see a coin in hand that’s deep brown, but the photo looks like burnt toast? Frustrating, right? That’s the **color fidelity** trap.

My early photos looked warm, rich. But the PCGS TrueView? Slightly “pumped up.” That’s when I realized: color isn’t just in the coin—it’s in your setup, camera, and monitor.

Step 1: Calibrate Your Monitor (Non-Negotiable)

I finally bit the bullet and got an **X-Rite i1Display Pro**. Calibrated to sRGB, it fixed everything:

• No more guessing if the coin is too red or too gray.
• What I saw on screen = what the buyer sees online.
• Consistency across my photos and the final TrueView.

Step 2: Shoot in RAW, Edit in Neutral Grayscale

I stopped shooting JPEG. Now I use RAW—whether DSLR or pro smartphone mode. Then:

1. Convert to grayscale to study **luster, wear, and texture** without color tricks.
2. Go back to color, adjusting only **white balance and exposure**. Never saturation.

Why? Because “pretty” photos don’t win grades. **Accurate** ones do.

Step 3: Test Against Known References

I keep a few **reference coins** in my desk—graded, verified, and photographed under the same lights. When I shot the 1873 IHC, I placed it next to a known MS65BN. Instant clarity. If my coin had deeper luster, better eye appeal? I knew it wasn’t just wishful thinking.

The Grading Submission: Bridging the Perception Gap

Photos matter. But so does how you present the coin. My 1873 had a mix of red and brown—classic BN/RB territory. But GTG debates made me nervous. Was it grading down?

Step 1: Understand the TPG’s Perspective

PCGS doesn’t grade photos. They grade coins. But your submission *guides* their first impression. So I didn’t just send photos—I sent a **case**.

“The mark on the neck and disturbance in the field worried me, but in hand, they weren’t as severe as they appeared in photos.”

So I added a note:

"Coin exhibits full luster with minimal surface marks. Minor contact on neck visible under magnification but doesn’t break luster flow. Color: Original BN/RB patina. Photos taken with 9-12-3 LED setup, no post-processing."

Step 2: Build a Case for the Grade

Local dealers offered “MS64 money.” I almost took it. But something felt off. So I:

• Pulled up **MS65+ IHCs** from major auctions.
• Compared luster, strike, and surface quality side-by-side.
• Noted the **unbroken cartwheel effect**—a sign of true mint state.

It wasn’t just hope. It was evidence.

Step 3: Leverage the GTG Community (Without Relying on It)

The GTG feedback was helpful—but it wasn’t gospel. I used it to:

• Spot **recurring concerns** (like that neck mark).
• Tweak my photos to show it wasn’t a detractor.
• Build confidence in my own eye.

The Result: An MS66BN Coin and Lessons Learned

After three years, I submitted the coin. Then I waited. And when the slab came back? **MS66BN**. The finest for its variety at PCGS.

The “problem” marks? Just light tricks from my early setup. The color debates? Mostly my monitor lying to me. The coin was better than I thought—because I finally learned how to *see* it right.

This changed everything for me. Three lessons stuck:

1. Lighting Is the Foundation of Accuracy

No filter, no edit, no “vibe” fixes bad light. A **3-point LED setup with diffusion** is the cheapest upgrade you can make. It pays for itself in accurate submissions.

2. Color Fidelity Builds Trust

Buyers and graders scan for “juiced” colors. If your photo looks like a sunset, they’ll think you’re hiding something. Calibrate your screen. Use references. Let the coin speak.

3. Confidence in Grading Comes from Preparation

Don’t just guess. Study. Compare. Document. A **well-reasoned submission** isn’t bragging—it’s due diligence.

Conclusion: Your Action Plan for the Next GTG

Next time you prep a coin, do this:

1. Set up 9-12-3 lighting with diffused LEDs. No ring lights.
2. Calibrate your monitor and shoot in RAW. Always.
3. Edit only for white balance and exposure. No saturation spikes.
4. Compare against reference coins. Your eyes need a baseline.
5. Write a detailed submission note. Explain what’s *really* there.
6. Use community feedback to refine—not replace—your own call.

Grading isn’t luck. It’s light, color, and confidence—backed by work. With these steps, you’re not just submitting a coin. You’re showing its *truth*.

Now when I hold that MS66BN, I don’t just see a grade. I see the failed shots, the late-night tweaks, and the moment I finally got it right. That 1873? It’s worth every lesson.

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