How to Spot Rare Errors on What is this And is it collectible: A Variety & Error Hunter’s Guide to Tokens, Die Cracks, and Mint Mark Variations

Most people walk right past the tiny details that can turn an ordinary pocket-piece into a rarity worth thousands. As an error hunter, I’ve spent decades training my eyes to catch what everyone else misses — the faint die cracks hiding along a rim, the dramatic double dies screaming under magnification, the mint mark variations that separate a forgettable token from a five-figure collectible. In this installment of our Variety & Error Guide, I want to walk you through the essential skills every collector needs to develop. I’ll use a real-world example from a forum thread that perfectly illustrates both the challenges and the genuine rewards of this hobby.

The Forum Post That Started It All: A Shell Oil Texas Token

The thread was titled, simply, “What is this? And is it collectible?” — a title that has launched a thousand identical threads across every coin and token forum on the internet. The original poster, Cruzsr85, shared a couple of photographs of a small medal-like object and asked the community for help identifying it and determining its value.

The photos were, to put it charitably, out of focus. And that’s where our story really begins — because the ability to properly photograph, examine, and identify what you’re holding is the first and most critical skill in error hunting and variety collecting. Without a clear image, even the most experienced collector is working blind.

Thankfully, more experienced members stepped in. One respondent identified the item immediately: it was a token issued by Shell Oil in 1969 as part of a series featuring all 50 states. According to Numista — the online catalog of world coins and tokens — the reference number is 155180. These tokens were part of a promotional campaign by Shell Oil in the late 1960s and early 1970s, and they remain popular among collectors of Texaniana and those compiling complete 50-state sets.

The numismatic value? Modest. Individual tokens from the Texas issue tend to sell for $5 to $10 on eBay, and a complete set of all 50 states recently changed hands for around $25. Not exactly a retirement fund — but a charming piece of Americana with genuine historical interest and solid eye appeal for the right buyer.

Here’s where the error hunter’s mindset kicks in, though: even on a common item like this, there could be die varieties, striking errors, or production anomalies that elevate a $5 token into something far more desirable. Let me show you exactly what to look for.

Why Photo Quality Matters: The First Rule of Error Hunting

Before we get into specific error types, I need to address something that came up repeatedly in this thread: the quality of the photographs. Multiple forum members asked for in-focus pictures, and one member — Jim — put it bluntly: “When you post out of focus photos there is not much helpful info available other than provide in focus photos.”

He’s absolutely right. In my experience grading and authenticating coins and tokens, I cannot overstate how important proper photography is. Here’s what I recommend every collector keep in their toolkit:

• A macro lens or macro mode on your smartphone — this lets you capture fine die details at close range
• Consistent, diffused lighting — avoid harsh overhead lights that create glare; natural daylight or a light tent works best
• A stable surface or tripod — camera shake is the number one killer of diagnostic photos
• Both obverse and reverse shots — always photograph both sides, plus any edge details
• A scale reference — a ruler or a common coin placed next to the item for size comparison

One forum member even joked about trimming out “all the unnecessary denim” from the photo background — a lighthearted reminder that composition matters. When you’re trying to identify a die crack or a repunched mint mark, every pixel of clarity counts. Poor photos don’t just slow down identification — they can cause you to overlook a rare variety entirely.

Die Cracks: The Subtle Clues Hiding in Plain Sight

Now let’s get into the real meat of error hunting. Die cracks are among the most common — and most commonly overlooked — die varieties you’ll encounter. They occur when the hardened steel die used to strike a coin or token develops a fracture from repeated use. Metal flows into that crack during the strike, producing a raised line on the finished piece.

How to Identify Die Cracks

Die cracks have several telltale characteristics that set them apart from scratches, marks, or post-mint damage:

1. They appear as raised lines on the surface of the coin or token — not incised or engraved, but standing slightly above the field
2. They often radiate outward from the rim or from high-stress areas like lettering and design elements
3. They have a slightly rounded profile when viewed under magnification, because the metal flowed into a narrow gap
4. They do not follow design lines — if a line crosses over a letter or through a design element in a way that doesn’t match the intended artwork, it’s likely a die crack

On tokens like the Shell Oil series, die cracks can be particularly interesting because these were produced in massive quantities for promotional purposes. The dies were used extensively, and die cracks developed over long production runs. A token with a dramatic die crack — especially one that runs through a key design element like the state name or the Shell logo — can command a real premium among variety collectors. The luster and patina around the crack can also help confirm it’s a genuine striking feature rather than post-mint damage.

Die Cracks vs. Die Cuds

Related to die cracks are die cuds, which occur when a piece of the die actually breaks away entirely. This creates a raised, blob-like area on the struck piece where the design is missing and the field is elevated. Die cuds are among the most visually dramatic and collectible die errors, and they can appear on any series — including promotional tokens. If you ever spot one, you’ll know it immediately.

Double Dies: The Crown Jewels of Error Collecting

If die cracks are the bread and butter of variety collecting, double dies are the filet mignon. A double die occurs when the hub — the master design tool — impresses the die in a slightly different position on at least one of its impressions. This creates a visible doubling of design elements: letters, numbers, or images — distinct from the sharp, clean lines of a normal strike.

What to Look For

When I’m examining a piece for doubling, here’s my systematic approach:

• Start with the lettering — dates, legends, and inscriptions are the most common places to find doubling because they’re struck with high pressure and are visually prominent
• Use at least 5x magnification — a jeweler’s loupe is the minimum; for serious variety work, I recommend a stereo microscope at 10x to 30x
• Look for a “split” or “shadow” effect — true doubling shows a secondary image slightly offset from the primary, not just a blurry or mushy strike
• Check the direction of the doubling — the orientation (rotated, offset, or tilted) helps classify the type of double die and can confirm it’s a genuine variety rather than a striking artifact

The most famous double die in American numismatics is the 1955 Lincoln Cent Double Die Obverse, which can sell for thousands of dollars even in circulated condition. But double dies exist on virtually every series — including tokens, foreign coins, and modern issues. The key is knowing what to look for and having the magnification tools to see it. Provenance matters here too: a well-documented example with a clear attribution will always command more than an unverified find.

Doubled Dies vs. Machine Doubling Damage

One critical distinction every error hunter must understand: not all doubling is created equal. Machine Doubling Damage (MDD) occurs when the die shifts slightly during the striking process, creating a flattened, shelf-like appearance on the affected design elements. MDD is not collectible and carries no premium value. True doubled dies show rounded, fully formed secondary images. Learning to tell the difference is one of the most important skills you can develop — and it’s the single biggest pitfall for newcomers.

Mint Mark Variations: Small Letters, Big Value

On U.S. coins, the mint mark — the small letter indicating which mint facility produced the coin — is one of the most important factors in determining value. But mint marks themselves can exhibit varieties that are highly collectible.

Repunched Mint Marks (RPMs)

Before the modern era of single-squeeze hubbing, mint marks were punched by hand into each individual die. If the mint worker didn’t position the punch correctly on the first try, they would repunch the mint mark in the correct position, leaving evidence of the original, misplaced punch. These Repunched Mint Marks are cataloged and collected extensively, particularly on:

• Lincoln Cents (1909–1958) — S-mint and D-mint marks from this era are rich with RPM varieties
• Jefferson Nickels (1938–1964) — wartime and pre-war issues show dramatic RPMs
• Mercury Dimes (1916–1945) — some of the most sought-after RPMs in the entire series

On tokens like the Shell Oil series, mint marks aren’t typically a factor since tokens don’t carry official mint designations. But the same principle applies to any punched or engraved element — logos, dates, state names. Look for doubling, misalignment, or evidence of multiple impressions. That’s where the collectibility hides.

Size and Position Variations

Even without repunching, mint marks can vary in size, shape, and position from die to die. These variations are cataloged in reference works like the Cherrypickers’ Guide for U.S. coins and in specialized catalogs for other series. As an error hunter, I always compare the mint mark on my specimen to known examples — even a fraction of a millimeter’s difference can indicate a new or rare die variety. It’s painstaking work, but that’s where the discoveries happen.

Specific Errors Every Hunter Should Know

Beyond die cracks, double dies, and mint mark varieties, there’s a whole universe of errors that can appear on coins and tokens. Here are the major categories I train every new collector to recognize:

1. Off-Center Strikes

When the planchet — the blank metal disc — isn’t properly positioned between the dies, the resulting strike is off-center. The degree of off-centering is measured as a percentage. A 10% off-center coin shows most of the design but with a visible blank area, while a 90% off-center strike may show only a sliver of the design. Off-center strikes with visible dates command the highest premiums, and the eye appeal of a well-centered off-center piece is undeniable.

2. Broadstrikes

A broadstrike occurs when the collar — the ring that holds the planchet in place and creates the coin’s edge — fails or is absent. The metal spreads outward freely, creating a wider-than-normal piece with a flat, spread-out design. Broadstrikes are visually dramatic and highly collectible. They’re one of those errors that even non-collectors can appreciate at a glance.

3. Clipped Planchets

If the strip of metal from which planchets are punched has an overlapping punch, the result is a clipped planchet — a coin with a curved section missing from the edge. Clips can be straight, curved, or irregular, and they’re a classic error type that’s been collected for generations. Multiple clips on a single piece are especially desirable.

4. Wrong Planchet Errors

Occasionally, a planchet intended for one denomination ends up being struck by the dies of another. The most famous example is the 1943 Copper Lincoln Cent — a cent struck on a bronze planchet instead of the zinc-coated steel planchet used during World War II. These errors can be worth six figures or more. The numismatic value of a confirmed wrong-planchet error is almost always substantial.

5. Die Adjustment Strikes

Early in a production run, mint workers adjust the pressure between the dies. This can produce weakly struck pieces with incomplete design details. While not always valuable, die adjustment strikes from certain series and dates can be quite collectible — particularly when they’re well-documented and clearly attributable.

6. Lamination Errors

Impurities or stresses in the metal strip can cause the surface of a coin or token to peel, flake, or split — a condition known as lamination. These errors are particularly common on tokens and medals, which may not undergo the same quality control as official coinage. A dramatic lamination peel can significantly affect both the appearance and the collectibility of a piece, for better or worse.

The Human Element: Learning from the Forum Community

I want to take a moment to address something that played out in this thread that’s relevant to every collector: the learning curve. The original poster, Cruzsr85, was met with a mix of helpful answers and, unfortunately, some sarcasm. One member noted that after three years and only about 50 posts, there was “very little trying and even less learning.”

As someone who’s been in this hobby for decades, I have a different perspective. Everyone starts somewhere. The fact that Cruzsr85 posted photos — even out of focus ones — and asked questions means they were engaged. The forum members who provided straight answers, links to Numista, and references to eBay sold listings were doing exactly what a healthy collecting community should do: sharing knowledge generously.

My advice to new collectors is this:

1. Don’t be afraid to ask “What is this?” — it’s the most common and most important question in the hobby
2. Do your homework first — check Numista, PCGS CoinFacts, and eBay sold listings before posting
3. Invest in a good loupe and a decent camera — these are your most important tools, and they don’t have to break the bank
4. Be patient with the community — and with yourself. Expertise takes years to develop
5. Study the references — books like the Cherrypickers’ Guide, the CONECA Error-Variety Encyclopedia, and series-specific catalogs are invaluable

Actionable Takeaways for Buyers and Sellers

Whether you’re buying, selling, or simply cataloging your collection, here are the key action items I want you to take away from this guide:

• Always examine your coins and tokens under magnification — at least 5x, preferably 10x or more
• Photograph everything in focus — both sides, with good lighting and a clean background
• Check for die cracks first — they’re the most common variety and the easiest to spot once you know what to look for
• Look for doubling on all lettering and dates — use a loupe and rotate the piece under the light to catch shadows that reveal doubling
• Compare mint marks and design elements to known references — even small differences can indicate a valuable variety
• Research before you buy or sell — eBay sold listings, Heritage Archives, and PCGS Auction Prices Realized are your best friends
• Join a community — forums, local coin clubs, and organizations like CONECA (Combined Organizations of Numismatic Error Collectors of America) provide invaluable support and education

Conclusion: The Hidden World of Varieties and Errors

The Shell Oil Texas token at the center of this forum thread may only be worth $5 to $10 in typical mint condition. But the principles we’ve discussed here — examining die details, identifying cracks and doubling, checking for mint mark variations, and understanding the full spectrum of error types — apply to every coin and token you’ll ever hold in your hand.

The beauty of variety and error collecting is that it transforms the mundane into the extraordinary. That common Lincoln cent in your pocket change might be a rare double die worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. That promotional token from a gas station could carry a die crack or planchet error that makes it a one-of-a-kind piece. The key is knowing what to look for and having the tools and knowledge to see it.

In my decades of hunting errors and cataloging varieties, I’ve learned that the most valuable skill isn’t a sharp eye or an expensive microscope — it’s curiosity. The willingness to ask “What is this?” and to keep looking, keep learning, and keep searching for the details that others miss. That’s what separates a casual collector from a true error hunter.

So the next time you pick up a coin or token — whether it’s a Shell Oil promotional piece from 1969 or a fresh-from-the-mint quarter — take a moment. Pull out your loupe. Look at the lettering, the dates, the edges, the fields. Study the luster, note the patina, and check for anything that doesn’t look quite right. You might just find something extraordinary hiding in plain sight.

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