I Tested Every Grading Approach for This 1880/79-O VAM-4 – Here’s What Actually Works & What Fails

I tested every grading method on my 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar so you don’t have to. Here’s what actually works – and what’s a waste of time.

Why Grading This Coin Feels Like Solving a Puzzle

Grading rare coins like the 1880/79-O VAM-4? It’s not just about slapping on a number. Especially when dealing with encapsulated coins that might have seen some “enhancements.” I’ve been down this rabbit hole. This isn’t theory. This is my real-world test of every method out there to figure out *exactly* what this coin deserves. My mission? Give you the straight goods: what methods are worth your time, which ones are risky, and what grade you should *really* expect.

First Glance: Red Flags on a NTC MS-66

My coin? Graded NTC MS-66. Sounds great, right? But the numismatic community? They’re skeptical. And honestly, so was I. The first thing that jumped out? Obverse haze. It’s not glaring, but it’s there. That, plus a nagging feeling about the surface, made me question if that MS-66 was legit. Here’s how I started peeling back the layers:

Putting Grading Methods to the Test

1. Your Eyes & the Right Light (No Fancy Gear Needed)

Forget expensive tools. Start here. A proper visual inspection is your foundation. But here’s the catch: bad lighting hides everything.

• The Good: Super fast. Zero cost. You’ll spot big stuff instantly – deep scratches, obvious marks, that weird haze I mentioned. Perfect for a first pass.

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• The Reality Check: Your eyes lie. Seriously. Shadows from bad light make tiny marks disappear or create phantom ones. Your experience level matters *huge*. A newbie and an expert will see different things under the same lamp.

My Pro Tip: Ditch the flashlight. Grab a bright, cool-white LED desk lamp (5000K-6500K). Move it around! Look at the coin from the side, from above, from below. Shadows change, revealing details. Uniform light = fewer surprises. Think of it like checking a car in daylight vs. under a streetlamp.

2. The Acetone Test: Cheap, Fast… But Handle With Extreme Care

Heard about this one? It’s a common trick for spotting surface work. Apply acetone (nail polish remover, basically) and watch what happens.

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• The Good: Cheap as dirt. Immediate feedback. If the acetone vanishes in seconds, your surface is likely “clean” – no recent coatings or waxes. Simple.

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• The Risk (HUGE): This is where I almost messed up. Acetone is a solvent. On a coin already in a holder? Big risk of damaging the PVC or the label. Even “cracking” it out (removing from the slab) is risky – you can scratch the coin or the holder. False positives happen too. Old cleaning residue (like from decades ago) can react, making a clean coin *look* altered.

My Hard-Earned Advice: **Only do this if you’re 100% prepared to crack the coin out of its holder.** No second chances. And even then, proceed like you’re defusing a bomb. Here’s my safe-ish method:


// Acetone Test (Proceed with Caution!)
1. **CRACK THE COIN OUT FIRST** (if in a slab). Use proper tools, no hacks.
2. Use a *tiny* drop on a cotton swab (Q-tip), almost dry.
3. Gently touch (don't scrub!) a *non-visible* area, like the edge or a tiny spot near the rim.
4. Watch FAST: Immediate evaporation = likely unaltered. Slow evaporation or cloudy residue = possible alteration (or old residue). Stop immediately if you see cloudiness.


I did this on a test spot. Quick evaporation. Relief. But the risk? Not worth it for a high-value coin unless you *know* you’ll crack it out anyway.

3. PCGS vs. NGC: The Grading Service Showdown

Want a new grade? You’re picking a referee: PCGS or NGC. They’re the big two, but they play by slightly different rules.

• PCGS (The Strict Referee): Known for being tough. They guard their reputation fiercely. Great for investment-grade coins where trust is everything. But they’re quick to spot (and reject) anything suspicious, like haziness or subtle work.

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• NGC (The Detail-Oriented Referee): Slightly more forgiving on *some* things, but still serious. Their written comments (on the holder) are often super helpful. They might note “light haze” or “slight friction” instead of just “altered,” giving you more nuance.

My Test Results: I sent my coin to both (before the acetone test!). PCGS? “ALTERED SURFACES” – straight rejection due to the haze. No grade. NGC? They saw the haze and friction too, but gave it an MS-62. Not the MS-66 NTC claimed, but also not a total fail. They explained *why*. This made sense to me. PCGS was stricter, NGC provided context. Choose based on your priority: ultimate trust (PCGS) or more detailed feedback (NGC).

4. Luster: The Coin’s “Skin” (And Why It Matters More Than You Think)

Luster isn’t just shininess. It’s the *quality* of the metal flow. For Morgan Dollars, that frosty, cartwheel effect is key to an MS grade.

• The Good: This test tells you if the coin was *ever* cleaned or worn down. Even if it looks perfect, bad luster screams “problems.” You can catch subtle over-dipping or friction marks hiding under the surface.

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• The Hard Part: You need to *see* the difference between original mint luster and fake shine (like from polishing or dipping). It takes looking at lots of coins. I spent hours comparing my VAM-4 to known examples.

My Luster Checklist (Works on Any MS Coin): Focus on the delicate areas:

// Luster Deep Dive
1. **Ms. Liberty's Cheek:** Should be smooth, frosty, *unbroken* luster. No dull spots or friction.
2. **Forehead & Hair:** Same as the cheek. Watch for tiny breaks or flattening.
3. **Fields:** Look for micro-chatter (tiny lines) or matte areas. These kill MS grades.
4. **Eagle's Breast & Shield:** High points should have strong luster. Dullness here = friction.
5. **Compare:** Whip out a known MS-65+ Morgan Dollar. How does your coin's luster *feel*? More vibrant? Duller? Patchy?


My VAM-4? The cheek had micro-chatter. The fields had slight haze dulling the luster. Big red flags for MS-66.

So, What Grade Does It *Really* Deserve? (The Verdicts)

MS-62 to MS-63: The Most Realistic Range (My Pick)

Based on *all* my testing – the haze, the micro-chatter on Liberty, the slight friction on the eagle, the NGC feedback – the honest grade? **MS-62 to MS-63.** Here’s why:

• Those “whispy lines” on the obverse? Classic micro-chatter from minor handling. Not deep, but present.
• The haze? It directly impacts luster quality, a core MS requirement.
• Minor marks on the reverse? Usually happen during mint handling or circulation. Add up.

The NTC MS-66? Overgraded. The surface issues and friction simply don’t support that level. MS-62/MS-63 reflects the real-world condition: nice, but has seen *some* life.

AU-58: Playing it Super Safe

Feeling extra cautious? AU-58 (About Uncirculated) is a solid, honest fallback. It acknowledges:

• The friction is visible, especially on Liberty’s cheek and forehead.
• The full mint luster is definitely breaking down, not fully intact.
• Leaves room for the haze and possible minor surface work without being punitive.

Less money than MS, sure. But it’s accurate. No one questions an AU-58. It’s a “safe harbor” grade. If you value peace of mind over chasing a high number, this is it.

Your Next Move: Regrade or Not?

When You Should Pull the Trigger on Regrading:

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• Your coin is in a **third-party holder (like NTC, ICG, etc.)** and your inspection (acetone, luster, visuals) shows it’s clearly *not* as high as the holder claims (like my MS-66 vs. what I saw).

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• Proper lighting reveals **major issues** (deep marks, obvious haze, friction) that the current grade ignores.
• You did the acetone test, and it came back clean, *and* you’re ready to crack the coin out and send it in. (No point risking damage otherwise!).

When to Walk Away From Regrading:

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• The acetone test showed **any cloudiness or slow evaporation**. Surface work confirmed? Don’t risk it. Sell as-is or crack it out only if you’re certain.
• The coin is in a **PCGS or NGC slab** and your assessment *matches* the current grade. Why pay to potentially get the same result?
• You’re not comfortable cracking the holder yourself, or the cost of grading (especially with potential crack-out fees) outweighs the potential grade bump. It’s not worth the stress or expense.

The Bottom Line: What I Learned the Hard Way

After months of testing this 1880/79-O VAM-4, here’s the real takeaway:

• Lighting is everything for Visual Inspection: Bad light hides the truth. Good light (multi-angle LED) is your best friend.
• Acetone Test: Powerful but Nuclear: Use it *only* if you’re committed to cracking the coin. It’s a diagnostic tool, not a casual check.
• PCGS vs. NGC: Know Their Style: PCGS is the stricter grader. NGC gives more detailed feedback. Choose based on your coin and your goals.
• Luster is King for MS Grades: Don’t just look shiny. Analyze *how* it feels. Breaks, haze, dull spots = lower grade. Compare to reference coins.
• MS-62 to MS-63 is Honest, AU-58 is Safe: For this specific coin, given the haze and friction, MS-62/MS-63 is the *fair* range. AU-58 removes any doubt.

Grading isn’t about chasing the highest number. It’s about honesty. It’s about understanding what the coin *is*, not what you hope it is. Use these methods – the lighting, the acetone (carefully!), the luster check, and understanding the TPGs – to make a decision based on facts, not just the holder. Your rare coin deserves accuracy, not just a number. Good luck out there, and happy hunting!

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