I Tried 7 Methods to Free Stuck UNC Pennies from 1960s Plastic Tubes – Here’s What Actually Works

I tested every trick in the book—and some you’d never guess—to free valuable UNC pennies from stubborn 1960s plastic tubes. Here’s what actually works (and what’s just a waste of time).

I recently scored a batch of Uncirculated (UNC) Lincoln Head pennies sealed in original 1960s-era plastic tubes. At first glance, it looked like a collector’s dream. Then I tried to open one. Nothing moved. Not even a wiggle. Turns out, I’d walked into a classic numismatic trap: vintage “Shrinky Dink” soft plastic tubes that had slowly constricted over decades. These things don’t just seal coins—they *grip* them like a vice.

Unlike today’s rigid coin tubes, these old-school containers were made from a soft polymer that reacts to humidity, temperature, and time. After 60+ years? The plastic shrinks. The coins don’t budge. And one wrong move can scratch, dent, or rim a coin worth way more than its face value.

So I ran a real-world comparison. Seven methods. Same conditions: my kitchen, my tools, my nerves. I used everything from kitchen gear to acetone soaks. My mission? Find the safest, most reliable way to free those coins—without turning a $100 coin into a $5 mistake.

Why This Matters: Stuck Coins ≠ Worthless Coins

You might think a roll of 1960s pennies is just $0.50 in loose change. But here’s the thing: bronze (pre-1982) 95% copper cents can be worth far more than face value. A single 1960-D MS65 RD recently sold for $120. And if you’ve got a full 50-coin roll in uncirculated condition? You could be sitting on hundreds of dollars—locked in by plastic no one knows how to open.

But it’s not just about melt value or scarcity. These old rolls often have:

• Original bank wrap (OBW) provenance prized by advanced collectors

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• Unsearched coins—meaning they haven’t been picked over for high-grade specimens

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• Historical packaging that tells a story

So the real question isn’t *can* you get the coins out—it’s *how* you do it without wrecking their value.

Method 1: Thermal Shock (Freezer + Hot Water)

How It Works

The idea: freeze the tube for 2–4 hours, then dunk it in hot water. The plastic (with a higher coefficient of thermal expansion) contracts and expands faster than copper, ideally loosening its grip.

Test Results

I tried this on three tubes:

• Tube A: Coins shifted 1/8 inch. First sign of life!
• Tube B: Nada. Tried it twice. Still stuck.
• Tube C: Plastic cracked along the seam. Coins exposed but still locked in place.

Pros & Cons

• ✅ Non-destructive when it works
• ✅ Uses household items
• ❌ Only 1 in 3 tubes budged
• ❌ Cracking plastic risks moisture and mishandling

Takeaway

Works on tubes with mild shrinkage. Wrap the tube in a towel before tapping—frozen plastic can shatter like glass. And wear gloves. Trust me.

Method 2: Boiling Water Immersion

How It Works

After hearing about this from a fellow collector in Minnesota, I submerged uncapped tubes upright in gently boiling water (95–100°C, small bubbles only) for 5 minutes. Pulled them out with tongs and oven mitts, then gave them a tap.

Test Results

Four tubes tested:

• Tube D: Slid out like butter after 3 minutes.
• Tube E: Needed a 2-minute reheat at the base—then popped right out.
• Two others: A light tap on a soft surface freed all coins within seconds.

Pros & Cons

• ✅ 100% success rate
• ✅ Fast—under 10 minutes total
• ✅ No tools, no mess
• ❌ Water *can* leak in if caps are loose (rare)
• ❌ Handle carefully after—hot!

Takeaway

This one surprised me. The most consistent method by far. Heat expands the plastic faster than the copper, breaking the shrink bond. Pro tip: Use a tall pot to submerge only the tube, not the coin surface, if you’re extra careful about water exposure.

Method 3: Hacksaw + Screwdriver (Mechanical Split)

How It Works

Use a fine hacksaw to cut *lengthwise* along the tube, stopping just before the first coin. Then slide in a large flathead screwdriver and twist to split it open.

Test Results

• One roll opened in under 2 minutes.
• One coin nicked (0.5mm scratch) from sawing too deep.
• Coins poured out cleanly once opened.

Pros & Cons

• ✅ Fast and works on the worst tubes
• ✅ Effective when nothing else does
• ❌ Risk of coin damage (1 in 2 attempts)
• ❌ Destroys the tube—no going back

Code Snippet: Optimal Cutting Depth


if (coin_diameter_mm == 19.05) {
max_cut_depth = 18.5; // Stop just shy
tools.need("fine hacksaw", "masking tape");
} else {
console.error("Check your coin size first.");
}


Takeaway

Use masking tape to mark your cut line. Only use this when thermal methods fail. And go slow—this is precision work.

Method 4: Acetone Soak (Chemical Dissolution)

How It Works

Submerge the tube in 100% acetone for a week. The idea: slowly break down the plastic.

Test Results

• Days 1–3: Nothing.
• Day 5: Plastic felt softer to the touch.
• Day 7: Tube fell apart completely.
• Coins came out clean—one had a light acetone film (wiped off with a microfiber cloth).

Pros & Cons

• ✅ Zero mechanical risk
• ✅ Perfect for high-value or fragile rolls
• ❌ Takes a full week
• ❌ Requires ventilation and a glass container (plastic won’t survive)

Takeaway

If you’ve got a rare OBW roll or coins worth $50+ each, this is the VIP method. Just be patient—and keep it away from pets and kids.

Method 5: Pipe Cutter + Vice

How It Works

Clamp the tube in a vise (with soft jaws) and use a small pipe cutter to slice rings off one end, releasing coins in sections.

Test Results

• Three precise cuts freed 30 coins cleanly.
• One coin nicked—off-center cut.

Pros & Cons

• ✅ Great for preserving coin order
• ✅ No heat, no chemicals
• ❌ Needs tools and practice
• ❌ Not beginner-friendly

Takeaway

Ideal for high-value, original bank wrap rolls where sequence matters. If you’re a detail-oriented collector, this is your move.

Method 6: Hair Dryer (Localized Heat)

How It Works

Blast the seam with 30 seconds of high heat. Try to peel or twist it open.

Test Results

Tried it on two tubes. Plastic softened slightly—but snapped right back as it cooled. Zero movement.

Takeaway

Not effective alone. If you’re using heat, go all-in with boiling water. A hair dryer just teases the problem.

Method 7: Floor Impact / Hammer (Brute Force)

How It Works

Drop the tube open-end down on a towel-covered floor. Repeat until coins break free.

Test Results

• Coins moved after 15–20 drops.
• One coin dented from an edge-on strike.
• Tube cracked but didn’t split.

Takeaway

Only for junk rolls. If the coins aren’t collectible, go for it. If they’re UNC or valuable? Just don’t.

Final Recommendations: What Actually Works & When to Use It

“Boiling water immersion wins every time for speed, safety, and reliability.”

• Best Overall: Boiling Water (5 min) → 100% success, no tools, minimal risk.
• Best for Value Preservation: Acetone Soak (7 days) → Hands-off perfection.
• Best for Emergency Access: Hacksaw + Screwdriver → Fast, but risky.
• Best for High-Value OBW Rolls: Pipe Cutter → Precision over speed.

Always ask: *How much is this roll worth?* For coins under $5 face value, boiling water is perfect. For rolls with OBW or high-grade potential, give acetone the week it needs. And never—*never*—rush cooling after boiling. Let the tube cool slowly to avoid re-shrinking.

Conclusion

After testing seven methods on real 1960s tubes, here’s what I learned:

• Heating beats freezing: Plastic reacts faster to heat than cold.

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• Patience is profit: The slow methods protect value.

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• Tools aren’t magic: They help—but only if you know how to use them.
• Force has a price: Scratches and dents cost real money.

For most of us, the boiling water method is the clear winner. It’s simple, safe, and shockingly effective.

Keep acetone for your crown jewels. Keep the hacksaw for emergencies. And remember: every penny from the 1960s has a story. Free it with care—so it can tell that story for decades to come.

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