My Path to Mastering the Art of Grading Raw Coins

After decades in coin collecting, I’ve found that grading raw coins transforms the hobby—it saves you time, money, and headaches. My journey began with the excitement of handling uncertified pieces, and I gradually learned to trust my own judgment over third-party grading services (TPGs). Let me walk you through what I’ve discovered.

The Case for Grading Yourself

Relying solely on TPGs can become an expensive habit, especially for new collectors. I get it—grading Buffalo nickels or Washington quarters has its challenges. But if you can’t spot cleaning, alterations, or fakes yourself, disappointment often follows. I’ve watched collectors pay slabbing fees only to get coins returned as “ungradable,” which hurts both wallet and morale. Building your grading skills turns potential pitfalls into rewarding discoveries.

Books That Built My Foundation

Over 55 years, a few key references shaped my approach—and saved me from costly mistakes. Here’s what stays on my shelf:

• Photograde: A 1970s revelation. The photos bridged theory and practice for me, despite some limitations.
• ANA Grading Guide: My go-to for clear standards and illustrations.
• Brown and Dunn: Taught me circulated grading basics through line drawings in the 1960s.
• Whitman Series Volumes: Found these cheap at used bookstores—perfect for quirks like Barber dime relief changes in 1901.
• PCGS Guide: Helpful for research, but no replacement for hands-on work.
• A Mystery Book: One gem explained why coins look the way they do—weak strikes versus wear, die states, surfaces. Game-changer for spotting red flags.

No book covers everything perfectly—luster, strike quality, and marks often need real-world context—but combining references with coin handling makes all the difference.

Series-Specific Lessons

My breakthrough came when I realized grading isn’t universal. Early on, I confused weak strikes with wear, not realizing weakly struck Morgans often keep more luster and can command premiums. Key nuances:

• Barber coins wear differently after relief changes.
• Canadian George VI dollars? 1937-1947 and 1948-1952 require different approaches due to design updates.
• Modern issues like full-step 1998-D nickels need slabs for top grades—raw, they’re pennies versus slabbed values.

Stick to what you know. I focus on familiar series to avoid expensive errors.

Smart Slabbing Decisions

Through trial and error, I’ve found: slab modern coins in mint state or rare high grades where premiums justify costs. For older pieces like Draped Bust or circulated Morgans? Often skip it. Fees pile up fast—service tiers, shipping, insurance—and for common dates, it rarely pays off. I’ve sold raw MS62-63 Morgans fairly without slabbing. Always do the math: if slabbing costs exceed potential value, trust your grading and keep it raw.

My Evolution & Advice

Looking back from childhood line drawings to handling thousands of coins, nothing beats hands-on experience. Books provide theory, but handling coins—at shows or with a mentor—builds instinct. I still hesitate with raw weak-strike coins, but now know when to pass or pursue. Start simple, build your reference library, and handle every coin you can. This journey took me from tentative to confident, making every find a thrill. Happy hunting—may your raw coins bring joy!