Red Book vs. PCGS: Sorting Out Seated Liberty Quarter Types for Your Type Set

I’ve been deep-diving into building my own Seated Liberty Quarter type set lately, and the differences between the Red Book and PCGS classifications really caught my attention—especially since it’s not about pricing, but about what coins to include. As a collector, I found this exploration both fascinating and a bit perplexing, so I wanted to share my insights on navigating these references for your collection.

Red Book’s Classification Breakdown

When I turned to the Red Book for guidance, I saw it organizes Seated Liberty Quarters into five main types based on design elements like motto, arrows, and rays. Here’s the typical breakdown:

• Type 1: No Motto (1838-1853, 1856-1865)
• Type 2: Arrows & Rays (1853)
• Type 3: Arrows, No Rays (1854-1855)
• Type 4: Motto (1866-1873, 1875-1891)
• Type 5: Arrows at Date (1873-1874)

This approach groups coins by major visual changes, but it doesn’t separate the early “No Drapery” coins, which some collectors like me find significant. The date ranges can feel a bit cluttered, but it’s a solid starting point for many type sets.

PCGS’s Take on the Types

Switching over to PCGS CoinFacts, I noticed they define six distinct types, emphasizing finer details like drapery. Their list includes:

• Type 1: No Drapery (1838-1840)
• Type 2: No Motto (1840-1865)
• Type 3: Arrows & Rays (1853)
• Type 4: No Motto, Arrows at Date (1854-1855)
• Type 5: With Motto (1866-1891)
• Type 6: With Motto, Arrows at Date (1873-1874)

I appreciate how PCGS highlights “No Drapery” as a standalone type—it’s a key subtype that the Red Book lumps in with others. This makes the presentation cleaner and more intuitive for me, especially when hunting for specific coins like the 1839-O in my own set.

Key Factors Defining Seated Liberty Types

In my research, I realized that disagreements stem from which variables collectors prioritize. Based on what I’ve learned, here are the five main elements that can define a “type”:

• Motto: Presence or absence of “IN GOD WE TRUST” above the eagle.
• Drapery: Whether Liberty’s elbow is covered (starting in 1840).
• Arrows: Flanking the date, indicating weight changes.
• Rays: Around the eagle on the reverse, specific to 1853.
• Weight: Changes in 1853 and 1873, though it’s often not treated as a separate type marker.

You can mix and match these to create anywhere from five to eight types—for instance, including “No Drapery” or splitting the 1873-1874 issues. It’s all about what you find meaningful in your collection.

How to Choose Your Reference for a Type Set

When deciding between Red Book, PCGS, or even other sources like NGC’s Coin Explorer, I’ve settled on a practical approach. First, consider your goals: If you’re aiming for a registry set like PCGS or NGC, stick with their list to meet standards. But for a personal collection, you’ve got freedom—pick one reference as your base and tweak it. I lean toward PCGS for its clarity and inclusion of “No Drapery,” but I’ve seen collectors modify the Red Book to add subtypes like the 1853 without arrows.

Practical Tips for Building Your Set

Based on my experience, here’s some advice for assembling a Seated Liberty Quarter type set:

• Start with key coins: Focus on rarer types first, like the 1853 Arrows & Rays (which is a personal favorite of mine) or the 1873-1874 Arrows at Date, as they often drive excitement.
• Grading matters: Even though pricing isn’t the focus, aim for consistently graded coins—slabs from PCGS or NGC add authenticity and help track condition over time. For example, I look for AU or better grades to ensure good eye appeal.
• Document everything: Keep a log with dates, varieties (e.g., Briggs attributions), and grades, as one collector’s detailed example showed—it makes your set more educational and fun.
• Embrace flexibility: Don’t stress over minor disagreements; if you love a coin like the “No Stars” dime mentioned in discussions, include it! The best collections evolve based on passion, not rigid rules.

Ultimately, there’s no single “right” way—it’s your collection, so define types based on what excites you. I’ve found that diving into these details not only sharpens my numismatic knowledge but also makes the hunt more rewarding. Happy collecting!