The Crack-Out Game: Should You Resubmit Your German and German New Guinea Coins for a Higher Grade?

Sometimes the plastic holder is holding the coin back. Let’s talk about the risks and rewards of trying to upgrade this piece across grading services.

I’ve cracked thousands of coins from their holders in pursuit of that elusive upgrade, and I can tell you — few areas of the hobby present as fascinating a challenge as the German Empire and German colonial series. A recent forum thread featuring four remarkable coins — an 1894-A German New Guinea 10 Pfennig, a 1908-G Mark, a 1927-A Bremerhaven 3 Mark, and a 1931-A Magdeburg 3 Mark — sparked a rich discussion about population reports, surviving populations, and the mysteries that make this series so compelling. But beneath the surface of that conversation lies a question every serious collector of German coinage eventually faces: Is my coin undergraded, and should I crack it out and try again?

Understanding the German Series: Why Population Reports Tell Only Half the Story

Before we get into crossover strategy, we need to understand why the German Empire series — particularly the ½ Mark, 1 Mark, and 3 Mark denominations — presents such a unique grading puzzle. One forum participant pointed out that the 1908-G Mark featured in the thread is apparently the highest-graded example at PCGS at MS66, with only four mint state examples on record. Compare that to the 1908-J, which also has four mint state examples but commands a higher value, or the 1911-J, which has only three mint state examples graded and seems to carry significantly greater numismatic value.

What’s going on here? Population reports for German silver coinage are deeply unreliable indicators of true rarity. Here’s why:

• Low submission rates: Graded coins are far less popular among German collectors than among American collectors. Many European collectors still prefer raw coins or have no tradition of third-party grading. This means the vast majority of surviving German silver has never been submitted to PCGS, NGC, or ANACS.
• Hidden hoards: As one German collector noted, many families in Germany still have secret stashes of silver coins hidden in attics — some forgotten for generations. When old roofs are replaced on century-old homes in southern Germany, it’s not uncommon for a carpenter to discover mouse-chewed boxes full of silver and even gold coins.
• Never officially withdrawn: The ½, 1, and 3 Mark coins were never officially withdrawn from circulation, meaning a reasonable number survived — though mostly in average to poor condition.
• Over 50 date/mint mark combinations: Building a complete 1 Mark set in uncirculated grades is a monumental task, with more than fifty date and mint mark combinations that are genuinely difficult to find in mint state.

So when you see a pop report showing only four examples of a 1908-G Mark in mint state, you’re looking at a snapshot of what’s been submitted — not what actually survives. The true surviving population is almost certainly larger, but how much larger remains, as one collector put it, “somewhat of a mystery.”

The NGC-to-PCGS Crossover: When and Why It Makes Sense

Now let’s get to the heart of the matter. If you hold a German coin in an NGC holder and you believe it deserves a higher grade — or if you believe PCGS might be more generous with a particular issue — the crossover game becomes tempting. But it’s not a decision to make lightly.

When to Consider a Crossover

In my experience grading and resubmitting German silver, there are specific scenarios where an NGC-to-PCGS crossover makes strategic sense:

1. The coin is at the top of the pop report. If your NGC-graded coin is tied for the highest known grade at NGC, and PCGS has graded the same issue higher, there’s a reasonable chance PCGS will see it differently. The 1908-G Mark at MS66 is a perfect example — if you held an NGC MS65 example that you believed was undergraded, a crossover attempt could be justified.
2. You’ve identified a quality distinction. German silver coins can vary significantly in strike quality, luster, and surface preservation. If your coin exhibits superior eye appeal compared to known examples at the same grade level, it may warrant another look.
3. The market premium for a higher grade is substantial. In the German series, the price jump between MS65 and MS66 — or between MS64 and MS65 — can be dramatic, especially for condition rarities. If the financial upside justifies the cost of resubmission, the math may work in your favor.
4. You’re dealing with a date that’s underrepresented in the PCGS holder. Some German dates have been graded more frequently by NGC than PCGS. If PCGS has fewer examples on record, their graders may be less familiar with the issue, which can work either for or against you.

The Risks You Must Weigh

Cracking a coin out of its holder is always a gamble. Here are the risks specific to German silver:

• Die polish lines vs. hairlines: As one astute forum participant pointed out, grading German silver coins can be particularly challenging because die polish lines can closely resemble hairlines. Die polish lines are raised — they were part of the die itself — while hairlines are incised into the coin’s surface from cleaning or contact. At higher magnification, the distinction becomes clearer, but not all graders apply the same scrutiny. If your coin has prominent die polish, one service may forgive it while another penalizes it.
• Surface quality variation: Quality can vary significantly across German Empire issues. Some mints produced coins with superior luster and fewer bag marks, while others were less consistent. If your coin is from a mint known for lower quality, a regrade may not help — the coin may genuinely be as good as it gets for that issue.
• The crack-out itself: Every time you remove a coin from its holder, you risk introducing new contact marks, rim nicks, or hairlines. Professional crack-out artists use specific techniques and tools to minimize this risk, but it can never be eliminated entirely. For a coin like the 1908-G Mark — potentially the finest known — even a single new hairline could cost you a full grade.
• Financial cost: Resubmission fees, shipping insurance, and the time value of having your coin out of your collection all add up. If the coin comes back at the same grade or lower, you’ve spent money for nothing — or worse, you’ve damaged a coin that was already accurately graded.

Identifying Undergraded German Coins: A Professional’s Checklist

Over the years, I’ve developed a systematic approach to evaluating whether a German silver coin is a good candidate for a crossover attempt. Here’s my checklist:

Step 1: Examine the Surfaces Under High Magnification

Use at least 10x magnification — I prefer 15x to 20x for German silver. Look for:

• True hairlines vs. die polish: Die polish lines will appear as raised, flowing lines that follow the contour of the design. Hairlines will appear as thin, incised scratches that cut across the surface. If what you initially thought were hairlines turn out to be die polish, your coin may be undergraded.
• Original luster: German silver coins with full, original mint luster are genuinely rare, especially for pre-1910 dates. If your coin has blazing, unbroken luster with no evidence of cleaning, it may deserve a bump.
• Bag marks: Count and assess the severity of contact marks. Minor, scattered bag marks are expected in mint state. Concentrated clusters or deep marks are grade-killers.

Step 2: Evaluate the Strike

German silver coins were struck at various mints — A (Berlin), D (Munich), E (Dresden), F (Stuttgart), G (Karlsruhe), H (Darmstadt), J (Hamburg), and others during the colonial period. Strike quality varied by mint and date. A fully struck example with sharp details on the eagle’s breast feathers, the denomination lettering, and the rim denticles may warrant a higher grade than a weakly struck counterpart. A sharp strike can dramatically boost both eye appeal and collectibility.

Step 3: Compare Against Known Examples

This is where population reports, despite their limitations, become useful. Search auction records, dealer inventories, and online databases for examples of the same date and mint mark at the grade level you’re targeting. If your coin is clearly superior to known examples at its current grade, you have a strong case for resubmission. Provenance matters here too — if your coin traces back to a well-known collection, that documented history can add confidence to your decision.

Step 4: Assess Eye Appeal

This is the most subjective factor, but it’s often the most important. Does the coin have that “wow” factor? Is the toning attractive? Is the luster vibrant? PCGS, in particular, has historically rewarded eye appeal in their grading — a concept they’ve formalized with their “Plus” grading for coins at the high end of their assigned grade. An NGC coin with exceptional eye appeal may indeed receive a higher mark at PCGS. I’ve seen it happen more times than I can count.

The German New Guinea Factor: Colonial Coins and Crossover Potential

The 1894-A German New Guinea 10 Pfennig featured in the thread deserves special attention. Colonial German coins occupy a unique niche in the market — they appeal simultaneously to collectors of German Empire coinage, colonial numismatics, and Pacific Island history. The population dynamics for these coins are even more opaque than for domestic German issues.

As one forum participant suggested, connecting with Ralf Mueller in Herne, Germany — who reportedly assembled the largest collection of German New Guinea gold coins, along with related paper money — could provide invaluable insight into the true surviving population of these issues. For colonial coins, the crossover calculus is different:

• Lower overall populations: Far fewer German New Guinea coins were minted compared to domestic German silver, and survival rates in high grade are extremely low.
• Less grading history: Colonial coins have been submitted to grading services far less frequently, meaning pop reports are even less reliable.
• Specialist appeal: The market for colonial coins is smaller but often more passionate. A top-graded example can command a significant premium from the right buyer.

If you hold a German New Guinea coin in an NGC holder that you believe is undergraded, the crossover attempt may be more justified than for a common domestic date — simply because the market for top-graded colonial examples is less efficient, and the premium for the finest known can be substantial. A rare variety in mint condition from this series is the kind of piece that can redefine a collection.

The Bremerhaven and Magdeburg 3 Marks: Municipal Commemoratives and Grading Nuance

The 1927-A Bremerhaven 3 Mark and 1931-A Magdeburg 3 Mark represent a different category entirely — municipal commemorative issues that celebrate German cities. These coins were often saved at the time of issue, meaning mint state examples are more common than for circulating denominations. However, the quality of striking and surface preservation can vary significantly.

For these commemorative issues, the crossover question often comes down to whether the coin has been net-graded. Net grading occurs when a coin has an attractive overall appearance but receives a lower grade due to a specific detracting factor — a rim nick, a carbon spot, or a patch of unattractive toning. If you believe your commemorative 3 Mark has been net-graded and that a different service would evaluate the detracting factor more leniently, a crossover attempt may be warranted.

In my experience, PCGS tends to be slightly more forgiving of minor rim issues on commemorative German silver, while NGC can be stricter. This is a generalization, and individual results vary, but it’s a pattern I’ve observed over hundreds of crossover attempts. The patina and overall surface character of these commemoratives can also play a surprisingly large role in how graders perceive the coin — something worth factoring into your decision.

Practical Takeaways for Buyers and Sellers

Whether you’re considering cracking out a German coin for a crossover attempt, or you’re evaluating a graded example for purchase, here are my actionable recommendations:

For Sellers Considering a Crack-Out:

1. Never crack out a coin that’s already at the top of the pop report unless you have strong evidence it deserves higher. The risk of a downgrade is real, and a downgrade can destroy value
   

   Related Resources

   You might also find these related articles helpful:

   • How to Properly Insure and Appraise Rare Numismatic Electrotypes, Shell Cards, and Political Tokens: A Collector’s Guide to Protecting Your Investment – A standard homeowner’s policy won’t come close to covering the true numismatic value of a serious collection…
   • Mint Error or Damaged? Decoding Lamination Flaws, Clipped Planchets, and Post-Mint Damage on Your Coins – Is that a rare lamination flaw, or did someone just scratch it with a screwdriver? I’ve been on both sides of that…
   • The Capital Gains and Tax Guide for Selling 1844 Nativist Political Tokens and Electrotypes: What Collectors Must Know Before Cashing Out – Selling high-value collectibles comes with specific tax rules that most hobbyists ignore until it’s too late. Here…