The Insider Secrets Behind Preparing Your 1880/79-O VAM-4 for Regrade: What They Don’t Tell You

There’s a side to coin regrading most collectors never see. I’ve spent years learning the hard way what works — and what doesn’t — when prepping a coin like the 1880/79-O VAM-4 for resubmission. Here’s what I wish someone had told me when I started.

The Hidden Reality of Coin Regrading

Rare coins like the 1880/79-O VAM-4 aren’t just about the number on the slab. Regrading is a behind-the-scenes game with unspoken rules. Most collectors obsess over the grade. But the real story? It’s in the details you can’t see in a photo: surface quality, original luster, and the tiny flaws that top graders spot instantly.

Why the NTC MS-66 Label is a Red Flag

That “MS-66” sticker from NTC or other lower-tier graders? It’s often a mirage. These companies prioritize eye appeal over technical precision. I’ve seen coins jump 3–4 points from what PCGS or NGC would give. Why? Because they grade under soft lighting, not the harsh, standardized conditions used by the majors.

When I get a coin with one of these labels, I don’t trust the number. I check:

• Surface integrity (haze, residue, or altered finishes)
• True luster (frosty and flowing, not patchy or dull)
• Edge condition (the slab hides this — and it’s often a dealbreaker)
• Strike sharpness (especially the eagle’s feathers and central details)

That flashy “66” might look good online. But under PCGS or NGC’s lights? Brace for a reality check. A coin with haze or friction can drop fast. I’ve seen it happen more times than I can count.

The Acetone Test: An Insider’s First Line of Defense

My go-to trick after 10+ years of grading submissions? The acetone evaporation test. It’s simple, but few people know it — or dare to try it. Here’s why it matters: it exposes surface tampering, the silent killer of regrades.

How to do it right:

1. Remove the coin safely — use a professional slab opener. Never pry it open.
2. Drop one tiny bead of 99% acetone near the rim, not on design elements.
3. Watch the timing.

3–5 seconds to vanish? Likely natural. Clean bill of health.

20+ seconds or pools? Red alert. Wax, oil, or coatings are covering haze or wear. At PCGS or NGC, that’s an “ALTERED SURFACES” boot from premium grades.

⚠️ Pro Tip: Test in a well-ventilated space. And never, ever use acetone on the central portrait. Protect the design at all costs.

Luster: The Forgotten Factor in High-End Grading

Everyone talks about marks. But at MS-62 and above, luster is the real MVP. Not just any shine — we’re talking original, intact, mint-fresh luster. Not the kind you fake with a cloth.

The “Frost vs. Friction” Test

Flip the coin. Look just below Miss Liberty’s ear. In a true Gem (MS-65+), you’ll see thick, swirling cartwheel luster that flows across her cheek like a river. Patchy? Flat? Matte in spots? That’s friction — even if there’s no visible wear.

Another dead giveaway: the luster break at the “E” in “PLURIBUS”. On a real uncirculated coin, the luster runs smoothly. On “sliders” — coins that look mint but have handling — it fractures. Graders see this instantly.

My luster checklist:

• Cartwheel effect: Does it spin under angled light, or just glare?
• Surface reflectivity: Punchy and dynamic, or flat and lifeless?
• Consistency: Are there frosty islands surrounded by smooth, worn fields?

Lighting Is Everything (And Most Photos Fail)

Photos inside slabs lie. The plastic bends light, hides texture, and flattens depth. I’ve seen coins that look “Gem” online but get hammered for haze or micro-scratches in person.

For real clarity, I’ve learned to get the coin out and shoot it under 3-point lighting:

1. One light at 45° (left)
2. One at 45° (right)
3. One low-angle raking light (front)

This combo reveals haze, luster flow, and surface texture — the holy trinity of grading clues. No more guessing.

The Edge: The Most Overlooked Regrade Killer

Slabs hide the edge. But for Morgan dollars like the 1880/79-O VAM-4, the edge tells the truth. Reeding, denticles, and nicks reveal everything: circulation, cleaning, or worse — fakes.

What to Look For on the Edge

• Reeding: Deep and even. Flat or weak? Likely worn.
• Denticles: Sharp and intact. Rounded? Could mean cleaning.
• Edge nicks: Even tiny dings can knock a coin down a full grade.
• Seams or solder: Red flags for composites or alterations.

Insiders like me always ask for a full edge scan or video rotation before submitting. If the slab blocks it? It’s worth cracking out — even if it means starting over.

Advanced Considerations: The Slider Trap

The 1880/79-O VAM-4 is a classic slider candidate. Looks mint. Feels uncirculated. But under scrutiny? Subtle friction. That means MS-62 is the ceiling, no matter how clean the surfaces.

How to Identify a Slider

Quick test I use:

1. Check the tip of Liberty’s bust — a flat, shiny spot = wear.
2. Inspect the eagle’s wings and neck — dullness means friction.
3. Look for “whispy lines” in the fields — micro-scratches from handling.
4. Examine the luster break at the temple — if it’s not seamless, it’s not MS-64+.

No metal loss? Doesn’t matter. Friction = slider = MS-62 max. That’s why so many coins from generic slabs fail at the majors.

Actionable Takeaways for a Successful Regrade

1. Crack it out if needed. Don’t waste money submitting a slab with hidden issues.
2. Run the acetone test. One drop can save you time, money, and frustration.
3. Get real photos. Flat lighting hides flaws. Use proper setups.
4. Submit to PCGS or NGC with “View Details” option. They’ll flag alterations.
5. Be realistic: For this VAM-4, with haze and friction, MS-63 is a stretch, MS-62 is likely, AU-58 if altered.

Conclusion

Regrading isn’t about luck. It’s about seeing what the graders see — before you submit. The 1880/79-O VAM-4 is a perfect example: it dazzles online, but falters under real scrutiny due to haze, friction, and surface tricks.

The keys? Test the surfaces. Check the edge. Respect the luster. Do that, and you’ll skip the common traps — and maybe even beat the odds.

Remember: the grade isn’t in the plastic. It’s in the details most people overlook.

Related Resources

You might also find these related articles helpful:

• I Tested Every Grading Approach for This 1880/79-O VAM-4 – Here’s What Actually Works & What Fails – I tested every grading method on my 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar so you don’t have to. Here’s what actually…
• The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Understanding Coin Regrading: The 1880/79-O VAM-4 Example – Starting out in coin collecting? The world of coin regrading can feel like diving into a maze—especially when dealing wi…
• Why This 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar’s Regrade at PCGS or NGC Matters More Than You Think: A Technical Breakdown – Let me tell you about a coin that’s been keeping collectors up at night — the 1880/79-O VAM-4 Morgan Dollar. It’s not ju…