Why Extracting Pennies from 1960s Plastic Tubes Demands a Physics-Based Approach

I’ll admit it—I used to think getting pennies out of these old plastic tubes was just a test of patience. Then I spent an entire Saturday wrestling with a 1964 roll that refused to budge. That’s when I realized: this isn’t just stubborn plastic. It’s a 60-year-old science experiment in your hands.

The Real Problem: Material Science Behind the Shrinkage

Yes, the coins are stuck. The caps feel welded on. But the real issue isn’t mechanical—it’s chemistry and time. Most 1960s tubes used soft polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or low-density polyethylene (LDPE). These materials creep under pressure. Think of it like a memory foam pillow that slowly hardens over decades. Except here, the “foam” is hugging your coins like a vice grip.

After 50+ years, the plastic shrinks. It creates a vacuum seal. And suddenly, a simple roll of pennies becomes a puzzle wrapped in a mystery wrapped in degraded polymer.

Why Modern Tubes Don’t Have This Problem

Today’s coin tubes? Built to last. Harder plastics, better resins. They’re like gym water bottles—tough, stackable, and engineered for abuse. The old ones? Think of them like flimsy grocery bags. Soft? Yes. Cheap to produce? Definitely. But they weren’t built for the long haul. Brands like Meghrig used polymers that were easy to mold—but not meant to survive a lifetime.

One collector told me, “They’re not stuck. They’re shrink-wrapped.” Turns out, he was right—just not in the way he meant. It’s not tape or film. It’s the plastic itself.

Thermal Expansion Mismatch: The Key to the Solution

Here’s where physics steps in. Copper (in pre-1982 pennies) expands slightly when heated. PVC expands a lot. The coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE) tells the story: copper at 17 x 10⁻⁶/°C, PVC at 50–100 x 10⁻⁶/°C. That’s up to six times more expansion in the plastic.

So when you heat the tube? The plastic grows. The coins barely budge. Suddenly, the grip loosens. It’s like warming a tight ring just enough to slide it off.

That’s why heat beats cold. Freezing the tube? That’s a myth. Cold makes plastic contract—like wrapping a rubber band around a bundle of matches. It pulls tighter, not looser. Heat? It opens the door.

Why the Boiling Water Method Works (And How to Optimize It)

I’ve seen collectors swear by hair dryers. Freezers. Hammer taps. But the most reliable method? Boiling water immersion—done right.

One expert shared his setup: a deep pan, upright tube (caps off), water nearly to the top. He heated it to a simmer, not a boil. Three to five minutes. Then—tongs in hand—he tapped the coins out onto a towel in seconds.

Why Simmering Beats a Rolling Boil

A rolling boil sends water into the tube. Steam builds. Pressure rises. Coins get wet—bad news for uncirculated (UNC) surfaces. A gentle simmer (90–95°C) heats evenly. No splashing. No flooding.

Speed matters. The tube expands fast. But it cools faster. Wait too long, and the plastic snaps back, clamping down again. Think of it like pulling a stuck drawer—wiggle it while it’s hot.

Step-by-Step Protocol: Optimized Thermal Extraction

1. Pop off both caps. No cutting. No prying.
2. Stand the tube upright in a deep pot.
3. Add water—just below the rim. Don’t submerge.
4. Heat to a gentle simmer (small bubbles, not rolling).
5. Set a timer for 3 minutes.
6. Grab with tongs and an oven mitt. No delays.
7. Tap the open end sharply against a towel or rubber mat.
8. If the bottom coins stick, heat that end separately.

Pro Tip: Have your towel ready. The 10-second window after removal is golden. Let it cool, and you’re back to square one.

Alternative Methods: When Heat Isn’t Enough

Some tubes are beyond heat. The plastic’s degraded. The seal’s absolute. Time for backups.

Mechanical: The Pipe Cutter Advantage

Forget hacksaws. A small pipe cutter is the precision tool you need. It scores the tube in a perfect circle. No jagged edges. No coin damage.

One collector told me, “Once I cut it, the coins just slipped out. Like the tube remembered its job was to hold, not to trap.”


// Pipe Cutter Setup for 26mm Tubes
Blade depth: max 1.5mm (just shy of coin edge)
Score at 5mm and 25mm from ends → split the tube cleanly
Gently squeeze scored section → plastic cracks open radially


Chemical: Acetone as a Last Resort

Acetone eats PVC. One collector left a tube in acetone for five days—plastic disintegrated. But it’s risky.

• Acetone can dull coin surfaces. (Watch for dulled luster.)
• Residue builds up. Ultrasonic cleaning may be needed.
• Ventilation is non-negotiable. (Work outside or in a fume hood.)

For a cleaner break, try tetrahydrofuran (THF). It dissolves plastic without leaving behind gunk. Safer. Cleaner. But still—only if heat and cutting fail.

When to Walk Away: The Economics of Coins Stuck in Time

Let’s be real: a roll of 1960s pennies is worth $0.50 face value. Even if all are UNC, pre-1982 copper only gets you ~$0.68 in melt. Your time? Your tools? Your risk of damage?

“If the coins are actually valuable enough to be worth your time” — every smart collector’s first question.

Rarity shifts the math. A 1960-D small date? Worth chasing. But most rolls? They’re artifacts. Unopened. Unsearched. A snapshot of mid-century collecting culture.

Some of the best finds come from sealed rolls—coins untouched since the gas station change tray. As one dealer told me, “Sometimes the tube is part of the value.”

Broader Implications: Lessons Beyond Coin Collecting

These tubes are a real-world lesson in polymer degradation. The same creep that traps coins affects medical implants, satellite components, and food packaging. Material choices matter—especially over decades.

For collectors, this hits home. Modern archival tubes use polypropylene or polystyrene. They don’t shrink. They don’t outgas. They’re built for the long game.

Future-proof your collection. Pick materials with low thermal expansion. UV resistance. No plasticizers. Because what lasts in 2024 should still be openable in 2084.

Conclusion: The Science of the Sealed Roll

Opening old coin tubes isn’t brute force. It’s applied physics.

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• Heat expands plastic more than metal—so warm it, don’t freeze it.

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• Simmer, don’t boil—control is everything.

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• Precision beats force—pipe cutters, not hammers.

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• Chemicals are a last resort—use them wisely.

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• Know when to stop—not every roll is worth the hassle.

These tubes aren’t just containers. They’re time capsules. Each one holds coins, yes—but also the story of how materials evolve, degrade, and surprise us. Sometimes the best move? Leave it sealed. Let history stay history.

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