Selling a 1936 Proof Set in OGP: eBay Fees vs. Coin-Show Dealer Bids

When I weigh selling a 1936 proof set in OGP through eBay against a quick dealer bid at a major coin show, I focus on the money that actually reaches the seller. The venue can change net proceeds by thousands. A trophy-level 1936 U.S. proof set may command more in a well-run auction than on a show floor, while a specialist bid can win when the seller needs a fast, certain sale. I compare reach, liquidity, and cost—not just the headline price.

As an online coin dealer, I have examined original proof sets, later-repackaged examples, altered holders, graded coins, and assortments of genuine coins presented in attractive but unofficial packaging. In my experience, a 1936 set demands extraordinary care in both its description and its sale venue. It was the first annual five-coin proof set offered by the United States Mint, and its collectibility rests on age, limited supply, condition sensitivity, and collecting lore. For a set like this, provenance can be nearly as important as the coins themselves.

The set contains a Lincoln cent, Mercury dime, Washington quarter, Walking Liberty half dollar, and Saint-Gaudens gold dollar, all dated 1936 and made at Philadelphia without mintmarks. The cent is 95% copper and 5% zinc; the dime, quarter, and half dollar are 90% silver; and the dollar is 90% gold.

Colorful toning and patina, strong strike, vivid luster, cameo contrast, semi-cameo devices, and unusually clean fields can give a set remarkable eye appeal. When the coins remain in near mint condition, those qualities can materially increase its numismatic value.

When a seller calls packaging OGP—original government packaging—the sale becomes more complicated. OGP is neither a grading designation nor proof of authenticity. Before comparing eBay with a coin show, I examine what the forum discussion actually established about this much-discussed set.

What the 1936 OGP Discussion Really Establishes

The original forum thread began with a photograph of a purported 1936 proof set in early cello-style packaging. Enthusiastic responses quickly focused on how unusual it would be to find such a set outside the usual 2×2 holders or later government packaging. That excitement is understandable: a documented 1936 set retaining its issue-era packaging would be a major numismatic event.

Yet a photograph of an attractive package cannot prove that the coins were originally issued inside it. As one forum participant pointed out, coins could theoretically be transferred into packaging from another year. Correct dimensions, familiar staples, and period-looking materials are useful clues, but they are not conclusive evidence of provenance.

That distinction matters. I use the same standard with any rare variety: dramatic presentation may attract attention, but the history must support the claim. For a high-value proof set, even a small packaging error can change the numismatic value by thousands of dollars.

A later update from the owner of the well-known inherited collection added an important correction. According to that account, the grandfather purchased the sets from the Mint when they were issued and stored them for decades. The family’s 1936 set was not in the original early cello sleeves; it had been housed in old black cardboard holders with sliding plastic windows. Sets from later years in the group, including examples from 1937 through 1942, were described as having remained in original packaging.

Dramatic packaging can raise a coin set’s importance, but the package must be authenticated through physical evidence, documented history, and a cautious chain of custody.

That correction does not prove that no 1936 set in original packaging exists, or that another example will never be discovered. It does show why sellers should never turn a similarity into a definitive claim. Unless the history and physical evidence have been independently examined, I would describe such an example as “reportedly original” or “in period-style packaging.”

Overstating OGP status can lead to returns, failed bids, disputes, and lasting damage to an online seller’s reputation. I would rather leave a collector intrigued than win a bid by making a claim I cannot support.

Price the Net Proceeds, Not the Headline Selling Price

My first rule of numismatic marketing is simple: a high gross sale is not necessarily a successful sale. A $20,000 transaction with $4,000 in marketplace, payment, shipping, and selling costs leaves $16,000—more than an immediate $14,000 dealer bid. But a $20,000 price means very little if all-in deductions reach $6,000.

The eBay calculation

eBay’s exact charge depends on the seller’s location, category, selling format, and current fee schedule. Rather than quote a rate that may soon be obsolete, I open the seller’s current fee preview before listing. On a transaction this valuable, optional services and shipping expenses can quickly push the total deductions into double digits.

1. Start with the total amount paid by the buyer. The final-value fee may apply to more than the coin price, depending on the category and the treatment of shipping and tax.
2. Subtract the eBay final-value fee. Check the current schedule for the exact numismatic category used by the account.
3. Account for payment-processing costs. Charges can vary with the payment method, seller status, and jurisdiction.
4. Deduct promoted-listing and advertising costs. Promotion may create useful bidding activity, but an expensive campaign on a niche set can cost more than it produces. I judge it by the bids it brings, not by the clicks.
5. Include packing and insured shipping. Proper coin-safe packaging, a rigid shipper, tracking, insurance, and signature confirmation all belong in the cost of doing business.
6. Reserve for taxes, returns, and claims. Tax obligations depend on the seller’s location. I also allow for condition disputes and questioned provenance on a high-value collectible.

For planning, I use a straightforward formula: expected gross price minus every verifiable expense equals net proceeds. If the variable marketplace and payment costs equal a percentage r, and fixed costs plus the minimum acceptable net proceeds total C, the required gross price is approximately C divided by one minus r. I take those percentages from the seller’s actual account rather than an outdated online article.

Buyer-paid shipping can also affect the final bid. Serious collectors of a 1936 proof set usually expect secure packing, tracking, insurance, and a signature. Some will accept a higher total for that assurance; others may bid more aggressively when the seller offers insured shipping.

The coin-show calculation

At a show, a dealer’s immediate offer avoids eBay fees, but it is not risk-free or cost-free. The bid already reflects the dealer’s need to protect inventory, cover expenses, and make a profit when the set is resold. I never treat a fixed wholesale percentage as an appraisal. Current demand, grading, toning, documentation, market depth, and dealer interest can all move the number.

As a starting point—not an appraisal or a promise—I may compare an immediate dealer bid with roughly 50% to 75% of realistic retail expectations. A widely marketed, liquid coin, including a rare variety with a strong collector following, may command a firmer percentage than a one-of-a-kind set with a narrow buyer pool.

A trophy 1936 proof set with spectacular color and exceptional eye appeal may inspire competition among specialists. By contrast, a questionable OGP claim may be heavily discounted even when the coins themselves are attractive and the provenance story sounds compelling.

After receiving a dealer’s offer, I still subtract show admission, travel, lodging, local transportation, secure transportation, insurance, and any table or helper costs. The comparison I want is simple:

eBay net after all costs versus dealer net after all costs, weighed against timing, certainty, security, and the risk of an unsold listing.

Why eBay Can Produce the Stronger Price

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