Grading 1968-Era $20 Double Eagles: How Condition Transforms $50 Investments into $10,000 Treasures
February 7, 2026Crafting Gold History: The Artisan’s Guide to 1968 Double Eagles as Jewelry
February 7, 2026We’ve all winced at the sight of a heritage coin stripped of its luster by well-meaning but misguided care. Let’s ensure your 1968 Gold Double Eagles survive as numismatic treasures, not cautionary tales. Here’s what three decades of handling these golden masterpieces has taught me about preservation.
Historical Significance of 1968 Gold Double Eagles
Hold a 1968 Double Eagle and you’re gripping financial history. These $20 gold pieces became fugitives during a monetary upheaval—when gold hoarding went mainstream. I still get chills reading that March 1968 New York Times report: ordinary folks paying $75-$100 for coins with a $20 face value! Picture Gimbel’s department store selling Double Eagles alongside appliances while Stack’s showcased them like crown jewels.
Here’s what most miss about their legal status—the 1934 Gold Reserve Act didn’t outlaw private ownership. Savvy collectors like ‘CaptHenway’ knew this secret. That’s why buying BU specimens from dealers like Earl Schill in 1966 wasn’t just collecting—it was financial rebellion. These coins are time capsules from when gold’s collectibility surpassed its face value.
The Silent Enemies of Preservation
1. Toning: Nature’s Art or Numismatic Nightmare?
Unlike silver cousins, Double Eagles develop toning through their 10% copper alloy. I’ve seen specimens with breathtaking crimson patinas that added thousands to their value—and others with corrosive black splotches from wool-lined boxes. One client’s MS-65 coin plummeted to $3,200 after sulfur exposure created leopard-like spots. Remember: natural toning enhances eye appeal; forced oxidation murders numismatic value.
2. PVC: The Green Death
Those innocent-looking vinyl flips from the 1960s? They’re time bombs. As PVC breaks down, it oozes acid that etches coins permanently. Last month, I diagnosed a Double Eagle with “PVC disease”—green slime snaking through Liberty’s hair details. The cure? Immediate professional conservation. Prevention? Archival Mylar® holders that won’t make your coin look like it survived a chemical spill.
3. Copper’s Revenge: Oxidation
Gold doesn’t rust, but that copper alloy? It’s a traitor waiting to strike. One collector stored his prize in a cardboard album with rubber bands—two years later, reddish blooms marred the high points. Watch for sulfur sources:
- Vintage paper products (especially manila envelopes)
- Rubberized storage boxes
- Industrial air pollution
- Cheap plastic holders
That “rust” on your gold coin? It’s oxidation screaming for better housing.
Choosing Your Coin’s Armor
Through trial and heartbreak, I’ve curated the ultimate preservation toolkit:
Battle-Tested Protection
- Intercept Shield™ holders: These polymer fortresses trap corrosive gases before they reach your coin’s surface
- Mylar® flips: Only use ones marked “archival safe”—ordinary plastic is Trojan horse
- Air-tite® capsules: The Lamborghini of protection with inert gaskets that maintain mint condition
Storage Disasters to Avoid
“My safety deposit box ruined my Double Eagle!” – Collector lament after silica gel disaster
This horror story shows good intentions gone wrong. Instead of mixing coins with desiccants, try this pro protocol:
- House each coin in its own archival capsule
- Stack holders horizontally in steel cabinets (wood emits acids)
- Maintain 35-40% humidity—too dry cracks diehards, too damp invites corrosion
The Cleaning Trap
When a collector asks about cleaning, my heart races. Unless you’re trained in numismatic ICU procedures, don’t touch that coin!
A $4,000 Lesson
Remember Earl Schill’s pristine 1966 Double Eagle? The heir decided its golden patina needed “brightening” with a jewelry cloth. Under magnification, the fields looked like sandblasted glass—microscopic scratches tanked its grade from MS-65 to MS-63 overnight. That rouge compound didn’t clean; it vandalized.
When to Call the Pros
Even I won’t touch these without expert backup:
- PVC sludge actively eating surfaces
- Sulfide crusts thicker than a buffalo nickel’s beard
- Adhesive nightmares (tape residue, glue monstrosities)
Certified conservators from the International Institute for Conservation might charge $150, but that beats losing $4,000 in numismatic value. They’re the ER doctors for your coins.
Generational Preservation Blueprint
Want your great-grandkids to inherit museum-worthy specimens? Follow this ritual:
1. The Inspection Ritual
Under 10x loupe, hunt for invisible enemies: micro-scratches, early toning spots, lint fragments. Document everything with macro photos—future conservators will bless you.
2. Climate Control Commandments
- 68°F (20°C) is gold’s happy place—no attics or basements!
- 35-45% humidity keeps copper content from revolting
- UV-filtered light only—direct sunlight bleaches history
3. Handling Like Sacred Objects
Cotton gloves aren’t optional. Fingerprints on fields become permanent acid etchings. I’ve seen burger grease on a Saint-Gaudens’ cheek reduce its value by 30%.
Conclusion: Guardians of Golden History
Every 1968 Double Eagle carries dual value: its gold content and its irreplaceable story. That MS-65 specimen worth $3,000 today? With your care, it could anchor a collection in 2070. But neglect turns history into scrap metal—I’ve watched oxidized coins sell for melt value. Remember: proper preservation isn’t just protection; it’s honoring the craftsmen who struck these marvels and the collectors who protected them before you. Your stewardship writes the next chapter in their golden journey.
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