Building a Type Set: How Angled Photography, Dansco Albums, and Smart Strike Selection Elevate Your Collection

Building a type set is the ultimate journey through history. Let’s look at the best way to represent this design in your collection.

There’s a moment every type set collector knows well. You pull a coin from a dealer tray, hold it under the light, and watch the colors dance — warm golds, subtle magentas, deep blues swirling across the surface. You buy the coin, bring it home, set it in your Dansco album, and then try to photograph it to share with fellow collectors online. The result? A flat, lifeless image that captures none of the magic you saw in hand.

I’ve been there. If you’ve been there too, this article is for you. But we’re going beyond just photography here. We’re going to talk about how to choose the right strike for each type, how to balance budget against quality, and how the tools of the trade — from Dansco albums to angled lighting rigs — can make or break the presentation of your life’s work.

The Type Set Collector’s Dilemma: Representing History in a Single Coin

When you build a type set, you’re making a profound curatorial decision with every slot you fill. Each coin must stand as the representative of an entire design series — sometimes spanning decades of minting. The 1913-S Type 1 Buffalo Nickel, for example, isn’t just a five-cent piece. It’s the embodiment of James Earle Fraser’s iconic American Indian design, the first year of issue for the Buffalo Nickel series, and the “S” mint mark from San Francisco adds scarcity and historical weight. One coin. One slot. One chance to get it right.

I’ve examined thousands of type set coins over the years, and the collectors who build the most compelling sets share a common philosophy: they don’t just fill slots — they curate experiences. That means thinking about strike quality, surface preservation, eye appeal, and yes, even how the coin photographs. Because in today’s collecting community, your type set doesn’t just live in an album on your shelf. It lives online, in forums, in Instagram feeds, and in the collective memory of the hobby.

Why Angled Photography Matters for Type Set Coins

The forum thread that inspired this article started with a simple confession from collector Jim: his 1913-S Type 1 Buffalo Nickel was “so nice in hand but just doesn’t show straight on.” He’d discovered that angling his cell phone camera was the only way to capture the color he could see with his naked eye. Jim isn’t alone. This is one of the most common frustrations in numismatic photography, and it has everything to do with the physics of light.

The Science Behind the Angle

As collector Leo explained in the thread, the ideal scenario is for light to bounce perpendicularly off the coin’s surface and reflect directly back into the camera lens. But here’s the problem: the camera is in the way. When you shoot straight down at a coin, the light source and the lens are competing for the same axis. The result is a washed-out image that kills color and obscures detail.

The solution is what many forum members call “V-angling” — positioning both the camera and the light source at angles, with the coin lying flat at the bottom point of an imaginary V. The light bounces off the coin’s surface and carries the color information up to the lens. Yes, this creates a slight oval distortion in the image, but as Leo noted, most collectors don’t find it necessary to correct this in post-processing. The trade-off in color fidelity is well worth the minor geometric compromise.

Axial Photography: The Gold Standard (With Caveats)

Several collectors in the thread referenced axial photography — the technique pioneered by Phil Arnold before his tenure as the PCGS TrueView guru. Axial photography uses a beam splitter, typically a pane of glass at a 45-degree angle, to align the light source and camera lens on the same axis. The light passes through the glass, hits the coin perpendicularly, and reflects straight back through the glass into the lens.

The results can be stunning, but the technique has real limitations:

• Scratched slabs are a nightmare. As one collector noted, axial lighting on slabbed coins can turn minor hairlines into glaring distractions. Raw coins are considerably easier to shoot this way.
• Setup complexity. One collector described suspending a pane of glass with its bottom edge resting against a plastic filter pane to prevent sliding — a clever innovation, but hardly a beginner-friendly setup.
• Not every coin benefits. As one experienced member pointed out, the OP’s Buffalo Nickel didn’t look like a coin that needed axial imaging. Direct angled lighting, done properly, can bring out color just as effectively for many coins.

For type set collectors who want to document their coins beautifully without building a darkroom, the angled V-method remains the most practical and accessible approach.

Choosing the Best Strike for Your Type Set

Photography is only half the battle. The coin you choose to represent each type in your album is the foundation of everything. And when it comes to strike quality, there are nuances that separate a good type set from a great one.

What Makes a “Type-Worthy” Strike?

A type set coin doesn’t need to be the finest known example of its date. It needs to be the finest example of its design type. That distinction matters enormously. Consider the difference:

• A well-struck 1913-S Type 1 Buffalo Nickel should show full detail in the Indian’s cheekbone, clear separation of the buffalo’s horn, and sharp lettering. The “S” mint mark should be bold and fully defined.
• A weakly struck example might have a mushy horn, flat facial features, and a barely visible mint mark — even if the surfaces are technically clean.

In my experience grading and selecting type set coins, I always prioritize strike over a single point of grade. A PCGS MS-64 with a full strike will outshine an MS-65 with a weak strike every time — both in hand and in photographs. The luster flows differently across a well-struck surface, and that quality translates directly into numismatic value and collectibility.

The “Best Strike” Checklist for Type Collectors

When evaluating a coin for your type set, run through this mental checklist:

1. Design completeness: Are all the major design elements fully rendered? For Buffalo Nickels, check the horn, the braid, and the facial features. For Mercury Dimes, check the fasces bands and Liberty’s wing feathers.
2. Mint mark clarity: Is the mint mark sharp and fully visible? A weak mint mark on a San Francisco or Carson City issue can significantly diminish the coin’s appeal.
3. Surface quality: Look for original, undisturbed surfaces. Bag marks are acceptable in moderation, but avoid coins with heavy contact marks in focal areas. A coin in mint condition with clean, problem-free surfaces will always command attention.
4. Color and toning: This is where the photography discussion comes full circle. A coin with attractive, natural toning — whether it’s a rainbow patina or a soft golden hue — will photograph beautifully with angled lighting and will command a premium in the marketplace.
5. Eye appeal: The intangible quality that makes you want to pick the coin up again and again. Trust your instincts. Eye appeal is what separates a coin you admire from a coin you love.

Dansco Albums: The Type Set Collector’s Best Friend

No discussion of type set collecting is complete without talking about Dansco albums. For decades, Dansco has been the gold standard for type set presentation, and for good reason.

Why Dansco Dominates Type Set Presentation

Dansco albums offer several advantages that make them indispensable for type collectors:

• Comprehensive coverage. Dansco produces albums for virtually every major U.S. type series — from Half Cents to Modern Commemoratives. The 7070 series, the U.S. Type Set album, is the most popular, covering every major design from 1793 onward.
• Secure, non-PVC holders. Dansco slides are made from plastic that won’t damage your coins over time. This is critical for long-term storage. As one forum member cleverly noted, even a Dansco plastic slide can be repurposed as a reflective surface for bouncing light during photography.
• Clean visual presentation. The black background and clear slides create a uniform, professional look that lets each coin speak for itself.
• Ease of updating. When you upgrade a coin in your type set, swapping it in a Dansco album takes seconds. This flexibility is essential for collectors who are constantly refining their sets.

Tips for Maximizing Your Dansco Experience

After building and maintaining multiple Dansco type sets over the years, here are my top recommendations:

• Buy the deluxe versions when available. They include more slots for major varieties and mint marks, giving your set greater depth.
• Label your upgrades. Keep a small notebook or spreadsheet tracking which coins you’ve upgraded and when. Type set collecting is a journey, and it’s satisfying to see your progress over time.
• Handle slides carefully. Dansco slides can crack over time, especially older ones. Replace any that show signs of wear to protect your coins.
• Consider lighting when displaying. If you display your Dansco album, use angled LED lighting to bring out the color in your coins — the same principle that works for photography works for in-person viewing too.

Budget vs. High-End Type Collecting: Finding Your Sweet Spot

One of the most common questions I hear from aspiring type set collectors is: “How much do I need to spend?” The honest answer is: it depends entirely on your goals. Type set collecting is uniquely flexible in this regard, and that’s one of its greatest strengths.

The Budget Approach: Building a Complete Set Without Breaking the Bank

A complete U.S. type set can be assembled in circulated grades for a surprisingly modest investment. Here’s a rough framework:

• Common types in Fine to Very Fine: Many 19th and early 20th century types can be acquired for $20–$75 each in mid-circulated grades. Indian Cents, Liberty Nickels, and common-date Mercury Dimes all fall into this range.
• Semi-key dates in lower grades: Coins like the 1909-S VDB Lincoln Cent or the 1916-D Mercury Dime are expensive in mint state, but affordable in lower grades. A Fine 1916-D Mercury Dime can be found for $300–$500 — a fraction of the five-figure mint state price.
• Gold coins in AU: For type set purposes, About Uncirculated gold coins often provide 90% of the visual appeal of mint state coins at 40–60% of the cost. A Type 1 Gold Dollar in AU-58 is a stunning coin that won’t require a second mortgage.

The budget approach lets you build a complete, visually appealing type set that tells the full story of American coinage. You’ll have coins with honest wear that circulated in the hands of history — and there’s something deeply satisfying about that.

The High-End Approach: Chasing Perfection

At the other end of the spectrum, high-end type set collecting is a pursuit of extraordinary coins. We’re talking PCGS and NGC MS-65 and above, with full strikes, pristine surfaces, and eye-popping color. This is where the hobby becomes a serious investment.

High-end type collectors often focus on:

• PCGS/CAC-approved coins with green stickers indicating premium quality within their assigned grade.
• Original, uncleaned surfaces with natural toning — the kind of coins that photograph beautifully with the angled techniques we discussed earlier.
• Pedigree coins from famous collections like the Eliasberg, Norweb, or Pittman sets. Provenance adds both historical significance and market value.
• Early proof type coins for designs that were issued in both business strike and proof formats.

A high-end type set in MS-65 and above can easily reach into the mid-six figures — or higher if you’re chasing the rarest types in gem condition. But the visual impact is undeniable. These are coins that stop you in your tracks.

The Middle Ground: My Recommended Approach

After years of building and advising on type sets, I’ve found that the most satisfying approach for most collectors is a hybrid strategy:

1. Set a per-coin budget based on the rarity and importance of each type. Spend more on key types like Buffalo Nickels, Mercury Dimes, and Standing Liberty Quarters, and less on common types like Shield Nickels and Roosevelt Dimes.
2. Prioritize eye appeal over technical grade. A beautifully toned MS-63 will bring you more joy than a technically superior but visually bland MS-65.
3. Upgrade selectively. Don’t try to build the entire set at the highest level from day one. Start with solid mid-grade coins and upgrade your favorites over time. This keeps the hobby affordable and gives you ongoing goals to pursue.
4. Invest in photography. Whether you use the angled V-method, axial lighting, or a hybrid approach, learning to photograph your coins well will enhance your enjoyment of the set and make it easier to share with the community.

The Community Factor: Learning from Fellow Collectors

One of the most striking things about the forum thread that inspired this article was the generosity of the community. Collectors shared techniques freely — from Jim’s angled cell phone method to the sophisticated axial lighting setups described by others. Members recommended Michael Goodway’s Numismatic Photography book, shared Instagram accounts like @coinpeeps, and even offered to post example images of their own coins.

This spirit of collaboration is what makes type set collecting so rewarding. You’re not just accumulating coins — you’re joining a community of people who share your passion for history, artistry, and the pursuit of beauty in small, metallic form.

Some actionable takeaways for engaging with the community:

• Post your coins — even if your photography isn’t perfect. The feedback you receive will help you improve.
• Ask specific questions. “How do I photograph color on a Buffalo Nickel?” will get better responses than “How do I take better coin photos?”
• Attend shows. The Baltimore show, mentioned by one collector as the place where he met Michael Goodway and Ron Pope, is just one of many events where you can learn from experts in person.
• Share your knowledge. Once you’ve mastered a technique — whether it’s angled photography or strike evaluation — pay it forward by helping newer collectors.

Conclusion: The Type Set as a Living Document

Building a type set is more than a collecting exercise. It’s an act of historical preservation, artistic curation, and personal expression. Every coin you place in your Dansco album represents a decision — about quality, about beauty, about what matters to you as a collector.

The 1913-S Type 1 Buffalo Nickel that started this conversation is a perfect example. It’s a coin that demands to be seen at an angle, that reveals its colors only when the light hits it just right. In that sense, it’s a metaphor for type set collecting itself. The best sets aren’t the ones that look good in a single, straight-on glance. They’re the ones that reward close inspection, that reveal new details every time you open the album, that tell a richer story with each passing year.

Whether you’re building your first type set on a budget or refining a high-end collection with six-figure coins, remember this: the goal isn’t perfection. It’s representation. Choose coins that make you proud, photograph them in a way that does them justice, and share them with a community that will appreciate the journey as much as the destination.

Your type set is a living document of American history. Make every slot count.

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