How to Properly Store and Preserve Your 1867 Shield Nickel with Rays: A Conservationist’s Guide to Toning, PVC Damage, and the Eternal Question of Cleaning

I’ve seen too many valuable pieces ruined by improper cleaning or storage. Here is how to keep this safe for the next generation.

As a conservationist who has spent decades examining, grading, and preserving some of the most significant numismatic specimens in private and institutional collections, I can tell you that few things break my heart faster than encountering a genuinely rare and historically important coin that has been irreversibly damaged by well-meaning but misguided hands. The story I want to share with you today begins with a fascinating forum discussion about an 1867 Shield Nickel with Rays — a coin exhibiting one of the most dramatic examples of machine doubling (strike doubling) I have ever encountered in my career — but it quickly becomes a springboard for something far more important: how do we, as collectors, historians, and stewards of these irreplaceable artifacts, ensure that they survive in the best possible condition for the generations that follow us?

The 1867 Shield Nickel with Rays occupies a special place in American numismatic history. It was produced during a transitional period for the denomination, and the “with rays” variety — distinguished by the rays between the reverse shield and the stars — was only minted in 1866 and 1867 before the design was modified. These coins were struck in a composition of 75% copper and 25% nickel, an alloy that is particularly susceptible to certain types of environmental damage. When you hold an 1867 Shield Nickel with Rays in your hand, you are holding a piece of post-Civil War American history, a coin that circulated during Reconstruction, and one that deserves the highest standard of care we can provide.

The specific coin that sparked the forum thread was cataloged as a CACG MS63 and featured an extraordinary machine doubling effect on the obverse date — so dramatic and visually striking that seasoned variety experts called it one of the most magnificent examples they had ever seen. But regardless of whether your Shield Nickel is a common-date circulated piece or a mint-state variety with eye-catching anomalies, the principles of proper preservation remain the same. Let me walk you through everything you need to know.

Understanding Toning: Nature’s Patina and What It Means for Your Shield Nickel

Toning is one of the most misunderstood phenomena in all of numismatics. I cannot count the number of times I have seen collectors panic when they notice color changes on their coins, or worse, attempt to “fix” toning that was actually enhancing the coin’s beauty and value.

What Causes Toning?

Toning is a chemical reaction — specifically, a thin-layer oxidation process — that occurs when the metal surface of a coin interacts with sulfur compounds, moisture, or other environmental elements in the air. On copper-nickel coins like the Shield Nickel, toning typically begins as a light golden or straw color and can progress through amber, magenta, blue, and eventually to darker hues of brown, gray, or even black if left unchecked.

The key word here is thin. Natural toning develops over decades or even centuries, forming an extraordinarily thin layer of sulfide or oxide on the coin’s surface. This layer is measured in microns — thousandths of a millimeter — and it actually serves as a protective barrier against further corrosion. When toning develops evenly and attractively, it is called “rainbow toning” or “cabinet toning,” and it can significantly enhance a coin’s eye appeal and market value.

When Toning Becomes a Problem

Not all toning is desirable. Here are the warning signs I tell every collector to watch for:

• Active corrosion: If the toning appears powdery, crusty, or is actively flaking off, the coin is undergoing active chemical deterioration. This is most common in coins that have been stored in damp environments or exposed to high humidity.
• Uneven or spotty toning: Dark, irregular spots — particularly those with a greenish or blackish hue — can indicate localized corrosion that may be eating into the metal surface.
• PVC-induced toning: This is perhaps the most insidious form of toning damage, and I will address it in detail in the next section.
• Artificial toning: Coins that have been chemically treated to simulate attractive toning often display unnatural color patterns — abrupt color transitions, overly saturated hues, or colors that do not follow the natural progression of oxidation on the specific metal alloy.

My Advice on Toning for Shield Nickels

For your 1867 Shield Nickel with Rays, my strong recommendation is to leave any natural toning alone. Do not attempt to remove it, enhance it, or alter it in any way. The copper-nickel alloy used in Shield Nickels develops particularly beautiful patina over time, and a coin with original, attractive toning will always command a premium over a stripped or artificially brightened example. If you are concerned about the stability of the toning on a specific coin, consult a professional conservator — not a coin dealer, not a jeweler, but a trained numismatic conservator who understands the chemistry of these alloys.

The PVC Menace: How a Common Storage Material Can Destroy Your Collection

If there is one topic that I feel most passionately about in the realm of coin preservation, it is the damage caused by PVC (polyvinyl chloride) holders. I have personally examined hundreds of coins that have been permanently disfigured by PVC contamination, and every single one of those cases was preventable.

What Is PVC Damage?

PVC was a common component in soft, flexible plastic coin flips, folders, and storage sheets manufactured from the 1960s through the early 2000s. Over time, PVC breaks down and releases chlorine gas, which reacts with the moisture in the air to form hydrochloric acid. This acid then attacks the metal surface of the coin, creating a characteristic greenish, sticky, or hazy film that is extremely difficult — and sometimes impossible — to remove without causing further damage to the coin’s surface.

On copper-nickel coins like the Shield Nickel, PVC damage often appears as:

• A greenish or bluish-green haze or film on the surface
• Sticky or tacky residue that attracts dust and debris
• Etching or pitting of the metal surface in advanced cases
• A distinctive acrid or “plastic” smell when the coin is removed from the holder

How to Identify PVC Holders

Not all soft plastic holders contain PVC, but unless you are certain of the material composition, you should treat any soft, flexible plastic coin holder as suspect. Here is my quick identification guide:

• PVC flips: Soft, flexible, often slightly cloudy or yellowish. They have a distinctive plastic smell. These are the most dangerous.
• Mylar (polyester) flips: Stiff, clear, and crinkly. These are considered safe for long-term storage. Look for the word “Mylar” or “Archival” on the packaging.
• Polyethylene flips: Soft but without the strong plastic smell of PVC. These are generally considered safe, though less rigid than Mylar.
• Polypropylene holders: Semi-rigid, clear, and chemically inert. These are excellent for long-term storage.

What to Do If You Discover PVC Damage

If you find that one of your Shield Nickels — or any coin in your collection — has been stored in a PVC holder and is showing signs of damage, here is my recommended course of action:

1. Remove the coin from the PVC holder immediately. Handle the coin carefully by the edges to avoid transferring oils from your skin to the damaged areas.
2. Do not attempt to clean the coin yourself. I cannot stress this enough. Improper cleaning of PVC damage can remove original mint luster, create hairlines, and permanently reduce the coin’s grade and numismatic value.
3. Place the coin in an archival-quality holder. Use a Mylar flip, a hard plastic capsule, or an inert plastic holder specifically designed for numismatic storage.
4. Consult a professional conservator. Organizations like the American Numismatic Association (ANA) can provide referrals to trained conservators who may be able to stabilize the damage and prevent further deterioration.

Choosing the Right Holders: A Comprehensive Guide to Proper Storage

Now that we have discussed what to avoid, let me guide you toward the storage solutions that I recommend for your 1867 Shield Nickel with Rays and other valuable numismatic pieces.

Individual Coin Storage

For individual coins, particularly those in mint state or with significant variety interest like the machine-doubled example from the forum discussion, I recommend the following options, listed in order of preference:

1. NGC or PCGS certified slabs: If your coin has been professionally graded and encapsulated by a reputable third-party grading service (TPGS) such as NGC, PCGS, CACG, ANACS, or ICG, the coin is already in one of the best possible storage environments. These slabs are made from inert, archival-quality plastic and are designed to protect the coin from environmental damage, handling, and contamination. The coin from the forum thread was certified by CACG at MS63 — an excellent example of proper preservation.
2. Air-tight hard plastic capsules: For uncertified coins, air-tight capsules made from acrylic or polycarbonate provide excellent protection. Brands like Air-tite and Capital Plastics offer capsules in a wide range of sizes. For a Shield Nickel, you will want a capsule designed for a 20.5mm coin (the standard diameter for Shield Nickels).
3. Mylar (polyester) flips: These are a good option for coins that you want to be able to examine easily without removing them from a hard holder. Mylar is chemically inert and will not react with the coin’s metal surface. However, Mylar flips do not provide air-tight protection, so they are best used in conjunction with a controlled storage environment.
4. Archival-quality cardboard flips with Mylar windows: These are a traditional and widely used storage option. The cardboard should be acid-free and lignin-free, and the window should be Mylar, not PVC. These are suitable for moderate-value coins but do not provide the same level of protection as hard capsules or slabs.

Bulk and Collection Storage

If you are storing multiple Shield Nickels or a larger collection, consider these additional factors:

• Coin tubes: Use only tubes made from polyethylene or polypropylene. Avoid any tubes that have a strong plastic smell, as this may indicate PVC content.
• Coin albums and folders: Choose albums and folders that are explicitly labeled as “archival,” “acid-free,” or “PVC-free.” Many modern albums from brands like Whitman and Littleton meet these standards, but always verify before placing valuable coins in them.
• Storage environment: This is just as important as the holder itself. Store your coins in a cool, dry, stable environment. Ideal conditions are a temperature of 65-70°F (18-21°C) and a relative humidity of 30-40%. Avoid attics, basements, garages, and any location subject to temperature extremes, high humidity, or direct sunlight.

To Clean or Not to Clean: The Conservationist’s Dilemma

This is the question I am asked more than any other, and my answer is always the same: do not clean your coins. Let me explain why, and then let me address the rare exceptions.

Why Cleaning Is Almost Always a Mistake

When you clean a coin, you are removing metal. Even the gentlest cleaning methods — dipping in a mild acid solution, rubbing with a soft cloth, or using a commercial coin cleaner — remove a microscopic layer of the coin’s surface. This layer includes the original mint luster, the natural toning, and the microscopic flow lines created during the striking process. Once these features are gone, they cannot be restored.

From a grading perspective, cleaned coins are almost always penalized. Third-party grading services are trained to detect evidence of cleaning, and a coin that has been cleaned will typically receive a “details” grade (such as “AU Details — Cleaned”) rather than a straight grade. This can reduce the coin’s market value by 50% or more compared to an equivalent uncleaned example — a devastating blow to both collectibility and long-term investment.

I have seen collectors take a beautifully toned, mint-state Shield Nickel and dip it in an attempt to make it “shiny and new,” only to end up with a lifeless, washed-out coin worth a fraction of its original value. It is one of the most common and most heartbreaking mistakes in the hobby.

The Rare Exceptions

There are a few limited circumstances where professional conservation — not cleaning, but conservation — may be appropriate:

• Stabilizing active corrosion: If a coin is actively corroding (for example, bronze disease on copper coins or advanced PVC damage), a trained conservator may be able to halt the deterioration using specialized chemical treatments. This is not cleaning in the traditional sense; it is stabilization.
• Removing harmful contaminants: In cases where a coin has been contaminated with a substance that is actively damaging the surface — such as PVC residue, adhesive from tape, or biological material — a conservator may be able to safely remove the contaminant without damaging the underlying metal.
• Preparing a coin for museum display: Museums sometimes apply a thin, reversible lacquer coating to coins that will be displayed in open-air exhibits. This is done by trained professionals and is designed to be reversible if future conservation needs arise.

In all of these cases, the work should be performed by a trained numismatic conservator, not by the collector. If you believe your coin may benefit from professional conservation, I recommend contacting the ANA or a major museum with a numismatic conservation department for a referral.

Handling Your Shield Nickel: Best Practices for Physical Care

Beyond storage and cleaning, the way you physically handle your coins has a significant impact on their long-term preservation. Here are my essential handling guidelines:

• Always hold coins by the edges. Never touch the obverse or reverse surfaces with your bare fingers. The oils, salts, and acids in your skin can leave fingerprints that etch into the metal over time, particularly on freshly minted or proof surfaces.
• Handle coins over a soft surface. If you drop a coin, you want it to land on something that will cushion the impact. A velvet pad, a folded towel, or even a soft carpet is preferable to a hard table or floor.
• Wash and dry your hands before handling coins. Even if you plan to hold the coin by the edges, clean, dry hands reduce the risk of transferring contaminants.
• Use cotton or nitrile gloves when handling high-value or high-grade coins. While gloves are not strictly necessary for all coins, they provide an extra layer of protection for mint-state or proof specimens where preserving every bit of original luster is critical.
• Never slide coins across surfaces. Place coins down gently rather than sliding them, as even a soft surface can create microscopic scratches on a coin’s surface.

Environmental Threats: What to Watch For in Your Storage Space

Even with the perfect holder, your coins can be damaged by environmental factors in your storage space. Here are the threats I most commonly encounter in my conservation work:

Humidity

High humidity is the enemy of all metal coins. Moisture in the air accelerates oxidation, promotes the growth of mold and mildew, and can activate PVC degradation in substandard holders. If you live in a humid climate, consider using silica gel packets in your storage area or investing in a dehumidifier for your coin room.

Temperature Fluctuations

Rapid or extreme temperature changes can cause condensation to form on coin surfaces, leading to water spots and accelerated corrosion. Maintain a stable temperature in your storage area and avoid moving coins between environments with drastically different temperatures (for example, from a cold car to a warm house).

Air Pollution

Sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, and other pollutants in the air can react with coin surfaces and cause discoloration or corrosion. If you live in an urban or industrial area, consider using air-tight holders for your most valuable coins and avoiding open display cases without air filtration.

Light

Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight or strong artificial light can cause toning to develop unevenly or accelerate the degradation of organic materials in coin holders. Store your coins in a dark or low-light environment, and use UV-filtering glass if you choose to display them.

Documenting and Insuring Your Collection

As a final note on preservation, I want to emphasize the importance of proper documentation and insurance. Even the best storage practices cannot protect against every possible threat — fire, flood, theft, and other disasters can strike without warning.

• Photograph your coins. Take high-resolution photographs of both the obverse and reverse of every coin in your collection. For coins with interesting varieties or anomalies — like the machine-doubled date on the 1867 Shield Nickel from the forum — include close-up shots that clearly show the diagnostic features. Good provenance documentation starts with a solid photographic record.
• Maintain a detailed inventory. Record the date of purchase, purchase price, grade, variety identification, and any other relevant information for each coin. Store this inventory in at least two locations (for example, a physical file and a cloud-based backup).
• Obtain proper insurance. Standard homeowner’s insurance policies typically provide limited coverage for coin collections. Consider a specialized numismatic insurance policy that covers the full market value of your collection against theft, loss, damage, and natural disasters.

Conclusion: Preserving History for the Next Generation

The 1867 Shield Nickel with Rays is more than just a coin. It is a tangible artifact of American history, a product of the post-Civil War era that tells the story of a nation rebuilding itself. The specific example discussed in the forum — with its extraordinary machine doubling on the date, its die cracks, and its strike-through anomaly — is a particularly compelling piece, one that captures the imperfections and the beauty of the minting process in a way that no perfectly struck coin ever could.

As collectors, we are not the owners of these pieces. We are their custodians. We hold them in trust for the future — for the next generation of collectors, historians, and enthusiasts who will study them, admire them, and pass them along in turn. The decisions we make today about how we store, handle, and care for our coins will determine whether they survive in the condition we found them, or whether they join the sad ranks of pieces that were ruined by ignorance, carelessness, or good intentions gone wrong.

So the next time you are tempted to clean a coin, to store it in an old PVC flip, or to leave it sitting in direct sunlight on a display shelf, remember this: you are not just protecting a piece of metal. You are protecting a piece of history. And that is a responsibility worth taking seriously.

Handle your coins with care. Store them properly. Leave the toning alone. And when in doubt, consult a professional. Your collection — and the generations of collectors who will inherit it — will thank you.

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