Avoid These 5 Montgomery Ward Lucky Penny Game Mistakes That Destroy Value

These 5 Montgomery Ward Lucky Penny Mistakes Cost Collectors Thousands – I’ve Seen It Happen

After 30 years in coin collecting, nothing stings more than seeing folks wreck valuable Montgomery Ward Lucky Penny pieces through avoidable errors. These quirky hybrids – real 1800s pennies sealed in vintage retail cards – demand special care most collectors don’t realize. Let me show you exactly where others go wrong, so you don’t join the “I-ruined-it” club.

Mistake 1: Assuming “Game Piece” Means Counterfeit Coin

Are You Making This Error?

• Seeing scratches and thinking “fake”
• Mistaking natural corrosion for replica flaws
• Believing “companies wouldn’t use real coins” (oh, but they did!)

How to Protect Your Piece

Montgomery Ward used genuine Draped Bust cents bought in bulk – often worn or damaged ones. Here’s how to spot the real deal:

1. Liberty's profile should show on front
2. Look for draped bust with 13 stars
3. "1803" under the bust (most common year used)
4. Weak lettering from early US mint techniques

Oops, I Did This – How to Fix It

If you treated it as fake:

1. Stop cleaning RIGHT NOW
2. Get it authenticated by PNG/ANA experts
3. Be honest about any changes you made

Mistake 2: Scratching the Coating Too Soon

The Collector’s Guilty Tell

Rubbing that silver coating before:

• Snapping clear photos
• Recording serial numbers
• Checking coin position in holder

How to Handle That Itchy Finger

“That silver film isn’t just part of the game – it’s part of the value”

Follow my 4-step save-yourself routine:

1. Photograph front/back in sunlight
2. Scan through archival plastic (no direct contact!)
3. Weigh it – intact cards run 8-12 grams
4. Store flat in acid-free holders only

Mistake 3: Ignoring the 1978-1982 Backstory

Historical Oversights That Empty Wallets

Most collectors miss three key facts:

• Copper was dirt-cheap pre-1983 (hence real pennies)
• 1970s scratch-off tech was primitive
• Montgomery Ward was nearly bankrupt when they ran this promo

Do Your Homework Right

Build this quick-reference checklist:

- Printer marks must match 1970s rotogravure style
- Card stock should feel like old Sears catalogs
- Check Ward's bankruptcy timelines
- Ink should match other 1979 store promos

Mistake 4: Killing Value With Bad Storage

Silent Value-Killers Lurking in Your Collection

• PVC holders = green corrosion nightmares
• Humidity = warped cardboard
• Sunlight = faded ink codes (your money codes!)

Simple Storage Solutions That Work

Preserve your piece like a museum would:

1. Use 2.5 mil archival sleeves (never regular plastic)
2. Swap silica gel packets every season
3. UV glass if displayed
4. Take yearly close-up photos

Mistake 5: Judging Only the Penny’s Value

The Pricing Blunder That Broke My Heart

I’ve watched folks sell $1,200 sets for $15 because they:

• Only valued the penny inside
• Ignored the rare card itself
• Tossed original packaging (facepalm!)

How to Price These Right

Use my field-tested formula:

(Penny Value x 0.6) + (Card Multiplier x 100)

Penny Value: Red Book wholesale price
Card Multiplier:
1.0 if opened
3.2 if coating's intact
8.7 if sealed with original receipt

Damage Control for Past Mistakes

If you’ve goofed, here’s how to limit losses:

1. Hands off! No more cleaning
2. Photograph everything today – timestamp matters
3. Find exonumia specialists (regular coin shops won’t get it)
4. For damaged pieces? Pro restoration can pay off

Why Your Vigilance Matters Now

These Lucky Penny pieces bridge coin collecting and retail history in ways no other items do. Skip these five mistakes – from mishandling real coins to misjudging value – and you’ll preserve both cash value and a cool slice of commerce history. Remember: Pristine cards command $1,200+, while damaged ones barely hit $50. Your care today writes tomorrow’s price tag.

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