Building a Type Set: How to Spot Counterfeit Trade Dollars and Protect Your Collection — Lessons from a Forum Deep Dive

Building a type set is one of the most rewarding journeys in all of numismatics — a hands-on walk through American history, one design at a time. But few areas of the hobby demand sharper eyes than the trade dollar series. After spending years assembling my own complete run of U.S. type coins, I can tell you firsthand: the lessons I picked up from a single forum thread changed the way I evaluate every coin I consider for my collection.

What started as a routine auction listing turned into a masterclass in counterfeit detection — and the takeaways are essential for anyone serious about building an authentic type set.

The Forum Thread That Started It All

The thread was titled “For T$ or Counterfeit Nerds — Answer provided,” and it kicked off when a forum member named keoj flagged a coin in an upcoming Heritage Auction: an 1875-CC Type I/II trade dollar. The coin had since been pulled from the sale, and for good reason. It was slabbed by ANACS, presented as a genuine piece, and it carried the look of a legitimate rarity. But keoj spotted something that didn’t add up.

“This one is a little tricky. 1875-CC Type I/II’s TDs are rare and just because this is an unknown reverse die does not prove counterfeit (but is cause for suspicion). IMO, the quality is pretty good.”

That single post launched an extraordinary conversation about die varieties, mint mark diagnostics, and just how sophisticated modern counterfeiting has become. For those of us building type sets, the lessons are invaluable — and frankly, a little sobering.

Understanding the 1875-CC Type I/II Trade Dollar

Before we get into the counterfeit analysis, let’s set the stage. The 1875-CC trade dollar is a cornerstone of any type set that includes this denomination. Trade dollars were minted primarily for export to China, and the Carson City issues are among the most coveted in the entire series. The Type I/II designation refers to the reverse design — specifically, the style of the eagle’s right leg feathers above the olive branch.

Type IIM vs. IIL Reverse Dies

One of the most critical distinctions in this series is the difference between IIM and IIL reverse dies. As forum member kaz explained:

“On IIL the feathers on the eagle’s right leg (above the olive leaves) are smooth and contiguous; on the IIM they stick out.”

This is a detail every type set collector should have locked in. Here’s the breakdown:

• IIM Reverse Dies: Used on all Type II trade dollars minted in 1875 and 1876. The feathers on the eagle’s right leg protrude distinctly above the olive leaves.
• IIL Reverse Dies: Not introduced until 1877. These feature smooth, contiguous feathers in the same area — no protruding feather.

The counterfeit in question carried an IIL reverse die — a variety that simply did not exist in 1875. That was the first and biggest red flag. As keoj noted, every Type II reverse die used in 1875 and 1876 was an IIM. An IIL reverse on an 1875-CC is, by definition, an impossible combination.

The Three Clues That Exposed the Counterfeit

Keoj’s analysis was methodical, authoritative, and frankly impressive. He identified three major diagnostic points that confirmed the coin was counterfeit:

1. The Reverse Die Was a IIL — An Anachronism

As outlined above, the IIL reverse die was not introduced until 1877. Finding it on a coin dated 1875-CC is like finding a 1964 date on a Roosevelt dime struck in copper-nickel clad — it simply cannot be genuine. This single observation was enough to condemn the coin, but keoj didn’t stop there.

2. The Host Die Was an 1877-CC Reverse (Reverse Die H)

Keoj identified the specific host die used to create the counterfeit reverse as Reverse Die H from an 1877-CC. He pointed to a distinctive bump on the feathers underneath the “E” in “UNITED” — a die marker consistent with that specific die. The counterfeiter had essentially copied an 1877-CC reverse and paired it with an obverse dated 1875-CC.

3. The Obverse Die Was from an 1875-S Coin

This is where the analysis gets truly remarkable. Keoj determined that the obverse host die came from a die used to produce 1875-S trade dollars — specifically, Obverse Die 13. The telltale evidence was the presence of die lumps (small raised bumps) documented on this specific San Francisco die. These lumps appeared on the counterfeit coin in exactly the positions expected for 1875-S Obverse Die 13.

So the counterfeit was a Frankenstein creation: an 1875-S obverse married to an 1877-CC reverse, presented as an 1875-CC. The combination is impossible in the genuine minting process.

Die Lumps and Raised Bumps: Friend or Foe?

Several forum members noticed raised bumps on the coin and questioned whether they were signs of counterfeiting. This is an important distinction for type set collectors to understand.

Keoj clarified that the obverse pimples were real die chips from the 1875-S obverse die that was copied to create the counterfeit. In other words, they were genuine features of the host die — faithfully reproduced on the counterfeit. This is actually a hallmark of sophisticated counterfeiting: the forger copies every detail of the original die, including its imperfections.

The reverse bump, meanwhile, was likely a defect rather than a diagnostic marker. The key takeaway for collectors:

• Die lumps on genuine coins are normal and well-documented for many die varieties.
• Die lumps on counterfeits may be copied from genuine dies — their presence alone doesn’t prove authenticity.
• Context matters: Always evaluate die markers in combination with date, mint mark, and die variety.

How Good Was This Counterfeit?

The consensus on the forum was clear: this was an exceptionally well-made counterfeit. Several experienced collectors admitted it would have fooled them. Here’s what made it so convincing:

1. ANACS Slab: The coin was housed in a genuine ANACS holder, lending it an air of legitimacy. As one forum member noted, “I’m surprised it got past the graders at ANACS.”
2. Faithful Die Diagnostics: Minute die diagnostics from the host dies were well conveyed onto the counterfeit. Keoj speculated that EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) was used to create the dies — a technique that can produce remarkably accurate reproductions.
3. Correct Weight: One reviewer noted that the weight was close to correct, making it harder to detect by simple heft.
4. Impossible Combination as a Feature: The coin was presented as an unknown die variety — a “new discovery” — which made collectors less suspicious. After all, new die varieties are found regularly.

As keoj put it: “I was way impressed by the quality of the dies.” Coming from someone with his level of expertise, that’s a sobering statement.

Lessons for Type Set Collectors

This forum discussion offers several critical lessons for anyone building a type set that includes trade dollars or other high-value series.

Know Your Die Varieties

You don’t need to be a VAM expert, but you should understand the basic die varieties for the coins in your type set. For trade dollars, this means knowing:

• The difference between Type I and Type II reverses
• The difference between IIM and IIL reverse dies
• Which die varieties are possible for each date and mint mark
• Which combinations are impossible

Invest in reference books. As multiple forum members mentioned, Joe’s book on trade dollar die varieties is an essential resource. The photos clearly illustrate the IIM vs. IIL distinction and document die markers for specific obverse and reverse dies.

Don’t Trust the Slab Alone

The fact that this counterfeit was slabbed by ANACS is a wake-up call. While third-party grading provides an important layer of protection, it is not infallible. Graders are human, and sophisticated counterfeits can — and do — slip through.

My recommendation for type set collectors:

• Always examine the coin yourself before purchasing, especially for key dates and rare varieties.
• Verify the die variety against published references.
• Check for impossible combinations — date/mint mark/die variety mismatches are a major red flag.
• Weigh the coin and compare it to the expected weight for the type.

Choosing the Best Strike for Your Type Set

When building a type set, one of the most important decisions you’ll make is which example of each type to include. This involves balancing strike quality, eye appeal, and budget.

What Makes a Good Type Representative?

In my experience, the best type set coins share these characteristics:

• Full strike details: Look for sharp design elements — Liberty’s hair, the eagle’s feathers, lettering, and rim details should be fully defined.
• Original surfaces: Coins with original, uncleaned surfaces are always preferable. Avoid coins with hairlines, tooling, or artificial toning.
• Good centering: Well-centered coins are more desirable and better represent the design as the engraver intended.
• Appropriate wear for the grade: A coin doesn’t need to be MS-65 to be a great type representative. A well-worn but problem-free VF-20 can be an excellent choice for a budget-conscious collector.

Strike-Specific Considerations for Trade Dollars

Trade dollars present unique challenges for type set collectors. Many issues are weakly struck, particularly:

• The olive branch on the reverse — often flat on genuine coins
• Liberty’s head on the obverse — details may be soft on certain die varieties
• The “E PLURIBUS UNUM” banner — as one forum member noted on the counterfeit, this area was “not at all crisp/sharp,” which was a red flag

When evaluating a trade dollar for your type set, compare the strike to known genuine examples of the same die variety. A coin that looks weakly struck may be genuine — or it may be a counterfeit that failed to fully reproduce the design details.

Building Your Type Set: Dansco Albums and Display Options

Once you’ve acquired your coins, how do you display them? For type set collectors, Dansco albums have long been the gold standard.

Why Dansco Albums Work for Type Sets

Dansco albums offer several advantages for type set collectors:

• Comprehensive coverage: Dansco produces albums for virtually every U.S. coin series, including trade dollars, seated liberty coins, and more.
• Secure storage: The slide-in pages hold coins firmly in place while allowing easy viewing of both obverse and reverse.
• Professional presentation: A Dansco album presents your type set in a clean, organized format that’s perfect for showing off your collection.
• Protection: The hardcover design protects your coins from dust, handling, and environmental damage.

Recommended Dansco Albums for Type Set Collectors

For a comprehensive U.S. type set, I recommend the following Dansco albums:

• Dansco 7730: U.S. Type Set album (covers all major design types from half cents through modern commemoratives)
• Dansco 7070: Trade Dollar album (if you want a dedicated album for this series)
• Dansco 7110: Seated Liberty Type album (for the seated dime, quarter, half dollar, and dollar types)

One tip: if you’re building a high-end type set with coins in slabs, consider using Capital Plastics holders or similar display cases alongside your Dansco albums. This lets you display raw coins in the album while keeping your slabbed coins in protective cases.

Budget vs. High-End Type Collecting

One of the great things about type set collecting is that it’s accessible at every budget level. But the approach differs significantly depending on how much you’re willing to spend.

Budget Type Collecting

If you’re building a type set on a budget, here are my recommendations:

• Focus on lower grades: A VF-20 or EF-40 example of a type can be just as representative as an MS-65, at a fraction of the cost.
• Choose common dates: For each type, select the most affordable date. For example, an 1877-S trade dollar is far more affordable than an 1875-CC.
• Avoid problem coins: Even on a budget, don’t buy coins with cleaning, damage, or other problems. They’ll never bring you satisfaction.
• Buy from reputable dealers: When purchasing key dates or expensive types, stick with established dealers who offer return privileges.

High-End Type Collecting

If budget is less of a concern, you can aim for the finest available examples of each type. Here’s what to look for:

• MS-65 and above: For common types, aim for gem mint state or better.
• Proof examples: For some types, proof coins are available and make stunning type set representatives.
• Top-pop coins: Coins at the top of the population report are always desirable.
• Eye appeal: At the high end, eye appeal is everything. Look for coins with attractive toning, full strikes, and no distractions.

The Middle Ground: Smart Type Collecting

In my experience, the smartest approach is somewhere in between. For common types, buy the best you can afford. For rare types, be willing to accept a lower grade. And for key dates — like the 1875-CC trade dollar — be extra cautious about authenticity.

Here’s a practical framework for allocating your type set budget:

1. Common types (60% of budget): Buy attractive, problem-free examples in AU to MS-63 range.
2. Semi-key types (25% of budget): Buy the best you can afford, focusing on originality and eye appeal.
3. Key dates (15% of budget): Prioritize authenticity over grade. A genuine VF-20 is infinitely better than a counterfeit MS-65.

Counterfeit Awareness: Protecting Your Investment

The forum discussion we’ve been examining is a stark reminder that counterfeit coins are a real and growing threat to collectors. Here are my top recommendations for protecting yourself:

Before You Buy

• Research the specific die variety for the coin you’re considering. Know which combinations are possible and which are impossible.
• Study reference photos of genuine examples. The more genuine coins you’ve examined, the better your eye will be.
• Verify the weight and diameter of any coin before purchasing.
• Buy from reputable sources — established dealers, major auction houses, and trusted collectors.

Red Flags to Watch For

Based on the forum discussion, here are the warning signs that should make you pause:

• Unknown die varieties on key dates — especially if the combination seems “too good to be true”
• Soft or mushy details in areas that should be sharp (like “E PLURIBUS UNUM” on trade dollars)
• Rough or malformed denticles — as one forum member noted, the denticles on the top half of the obverse were “no good (rough)”
• Wonky portrait features — Liberty’s face appeared “kinda wonky” on the counterfeit
• Incorrect beak or eagle details — one member specifically noted “don’t like the beak”
• Die lumps in unexpected positions — while die lumps are normal, their positions should match known die varieties

When in Doubt, Get Expert Help

If you’re unsure about a coin’s authenticity, don’t hesitate to seek expert opinion. The forum members in this discussion demonstrated the power of collective expertise — multiple experienced collectors examining the same coin, sharing observations, and building on each other’s insights.

Consider joining a numismatic forum or club where you can share photos and get feedback from experienced collectors. And for high-value purchases, always consider a second opinion from a recognized expert or grading service.

The Bigger Picture: Why This Matters for Type Set Collectors

The 1875-CC trade dollar counterfeit discussed in this forum thread is more than just an interesting case study. It represents a broader trend in numismatics: counterfeiters are becoming more sophisticated, and they’re targeting the exact coins that type set collectors need most.

As keoj noted, he had seen a similar counterfeit the previous year — an 1877-S Type II/I combination that was “scary good.” The pattern is clear: counterfeiters are creating impossible die combinations and presenting them as new discoveries, hoping to exploit collectors’ excitement about finding something rare.

For those of us building type sets, the implications are clear:

1. Education is your best defense. The more you know about die varieties, mint marks, and diagnostic features, the harder you are to fool.
2. Community matters. The forum discussion that exposed this counterfeit was a collaborative effort. No single person caught every red flag — it took multiple experienced eyes working together.
3. Trust but verify. Even coins in reputable slabs should be examined carefully, especially for key dates and rare varieties.
4. Invest in references. Books like Joe’s trade dollar die variety guide are essential tools for any serious collector.

Conclusion: Building a Type Set with Confidence

Building a type set is one of the most rewarding pursuits in numismatics. It’s a journey through American history, one coin at a time. But as this forum discussion demonstrates, it’s also a pursuit that requires vigilance, education, and a willingness to learn from the community.

The 1875-CC Type I/II trade dollar counterfeit is a reminder that even the most experienced collectors can be fooled — and that the best protection is knowledge. By understanding die varieties, studying reference materials, and engaging with the collecting community, you can build a type set that’s both beautiful and authentic.

Whether you’re assembling your first type set in a Dansco album or curating a world-class collection of gem type coins, remember the lessons from this thread: know your dies, trust your instincts, and never stop learning. The history contained in these coins is too important — and too fascinating — to leave to chance.

Happy collecting, and may your type set be genuine from first coin to last.

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