From HR Saint to Heirloom Ring: Assessing Silver Content, Hardness, and Design for Jewelry Crafting

Introduction

Not every coin is suitable for crafting. Let’s look at the metal composition and durability of this piece for jewelry making.

As a coin ring artisan who has transformed dozens of historic pieces into wearable art, I find the 1907 High Relief Saint‑Gaudens double eagle (often referred to in forums as the “HR Saint”) to be a fascinating study. Its legendary design, ultra‑high relief, and limited mintage make it a coveted collector’s item, but those same attributes pose unique challenges when the goal is to turn it into a ring. In this deep‑dive guide I will walk you through the silver content (or lack thereof), metal hardness, design details, and aesthetic appeal that determine whether an HR Saint can survive the rigors of daily wear while still showcasing its numismatic beauty.

Metal Composition: What the HR Saint Is Made Of

Before we discuss hardness or design, we must establish the exact alloy that composes the coin. The HR Saint is not a silver coin at all; it is a .900 fine gold piece, meaning 90% pure gold and 10% copper. Consequently, the silver content is effectively zero.

Gold‑Copper Alloy vs. Traditional Jewelry Metals

Understanding how this alloy compares to the metals most jewelers work with helps set realistic expectations.

• Gold content: 90% Au gives the coin a rich, warm hue that is deeper than typical 14k gold (58.5% Au) but softer than 22k gold (91.7% Au).
• Copper content: The 10% Cu addition provides modest hardening while preserving the gold’s malleability.
• Silver content: 0% Ag – unlike sterling silver (.925 Ag) or fine silver (.999 Ag), there is no silver to contribute to tarnish resistance or brightness.
• Comparison to common jewelry alloys:
  • Sterling silver: 92.5% Ag, 7.5% Cu – harder than pure silver but still softer than gold‑copper alloy.
  • 14k gold: 58.5% Au, balance Cu/Zn/Ni – significantly harder due to higher proportion of alloying metals.
  • 18k gold: 75% Au – softer than 14k but harder than the HR Saint’s 90% Au.

Because the HR Saint contains no silver, it will not develop the characteristic silver tarnish that many collectors associate with aging silver coins. Instead, any surface changes will stem from gold oxidation (minimal) and copper patina, which can produce a subtle reddish‑brown tone over decades if left unprotected.

Metal Hardness and Workability

Hardness determines how well a coin will resist deformation during the ring‑making process and how it will hold up to everyday wear.

Vickers Hardness Numbers and Practical Implications

While exact Vickers numbers for the specific HR Saint alloy are rarely published, we can infer them from known gold‑copper systems.

• Pure gold (24k): ~25 HV (very soft).
• 90% Au‑10% Cu alloy: approximately 40–45 HV, placing it between pure gold and 14k gold.
• For reference, sterling silver averages 60–70 HV, and 14k gold averages 80–100 HV.

What does this mean for the artisan?

1. Annealing is essential. The HR Saint will work‑harden quickly when hammered or stretched. I recommend annealing at 600–650 °C (1112–1202 °F) for 5–10 minutes, followed by a slow cool, to restore ductility before each major forming step.
2. Limited cold‑working tolerance. Unlike sterling silver, which can withstand a 30% reduction in thickness before cracking, the HR Saint begins to show strain at roughly 15–20% reduction. Plan your blank size accordingly.
3. Edge sensitivity. The wire edge and flat edge varieties have slightly different micro‑structures due to the striking process. The wire edge, being thinner, is more prone to cracking if over‑worked.

Practical Hardness Tests You Can Perform

If you are evaluating a potential HR Saint for a ring project, try these non‑destructive checks:

• Flex test: Gently bend a small, inconspicuous flap (if present) with fingernail pressure. It should yield slightly without permanent deformation.
• Scratch resistance: Lightly drag a hardened steel scribe across the surface in a hidden area. A faint mark that polishes out easily indicates the expected hardness range.
• Ring tap: Suspend the coin by a thread and tap it with a wooden mallet. A clear, ringing tone suggests a homogeneous alloy; a dull thud may indicate internal stresses or inclusions.

Design Details: What Makes the HR Saint Visually Compelling for Jewelry

The HR Saint’s design is arguably the most artistic ever placed on a U.S. coin. Translating that artistry into a ring requires an appreciation of the specific features that survive the blanking and shaping process.

High Relief and Wire Edge vs. Flat Edge

The term “High Relief” refers to the dramatic depth of the saint’s figure and the surrounding rays. Two edge varieties exist:

• Wire edge: A thin, raised rim that resembles a wire wrapped around the circumference. It adds a subtle linear texture that can be highlighted in a polished finish.
• Flat edge: A level, broad rim that provides a larger surface area for engraving or polishing.

From a jeweler’s perspective, the wire edge offers a built‑in decorative element that can be left exposed as a design feature, while the flat edge gives more room for a bezel or prong setting without interfering with the coin’s central motif.

Mirror Fields and Proof Characteristics

Although true mirror fields are rare on business‑strike HR Saints, specimen proofs and special‑issue pieces exhibit highly reflective surfaces. These fields contribute to the coin’s “cameo” appearance when contrasted with the frosted relief.

When selecting a coin for a ring, I look for:

• Strong, uninterrupted relief in the saint’s robe and torch.
• Clear, sharp lettering around the rim (especially the “LIBERTY” and date).
• Minimal surface marks in the fields; any light scratches can be polished out without affecting the relief.

Artistic Motifs That Translate Well

Certain elements of the design survive the transformation better than others:

1. The flowing lines of the saint’s robe create a natural, organic flow that complements the circular shape of a ring.
2. The sun’s rays radiating behind the figure can be echoed in a sunburst pattern engraved on the inner band.
3. The date and motto, when the ring’s outer side.

Aesthetic Appeal: Color, Luster, and Patina Potential

Even though the HR Saint contains no silver, its visual impact is formidable. Understanding how its color and luster behave under different finishes helps you decide the final look of your ring.

Natural Color and Tone

The 90% gold alloy yields a deep, buttery yellow with a slight reddish undertone from the copper. In direct light, the coin exhibits a warm glow that is more subdued than the bright yellow of 22k gold but richer than the pale hue of 14k gold.

Luster and Surface Finish

Depending on the strike, the HR Saint can display:

• Satin luster: Typical of business strikes; a soft, diffuse sheen that minimizes the appearance of minor scratches.
• Proof‑like reflectivity: Found on specimen proofs; a bright, mirror‑like field that creates striking contrast with the frosted relief.
• Patina development: Over time, copper oxidation can produce a light rose‑gold patina, especially in recessed areas. Many collectors prize this subtle aging, and it can be preserved or enhanced with a light lacquer.

Choosing a Finish for Your Ring

Based on my experience, three finishes work particularly well:

1. High polish on the relief, matte on the band: Highlights the saint’s details while providing a comfortable, low‑glare interior.
2. Selective oxidation: Apply a liver of sulfur solution to the recessed areas to deepen the contrast, then polish the raised elements.
3. Two‑tone approach: Leave the wire edge in its natural state and polish the flat field, creating a subtle visual separation between rim and center.

Practical Considerations for Crafting a Ring from an HR Saint

Turning a coin into a wearable ring involves more than just cutting a blank. The following steps outline my proven workflow, with special notes for the HR Saint’s characteristics.

Step 1: Selecting the Right Coin

Look for a coin that meets these criteria:

• Grade: MS‑60 or higher to ensure sufficient detail remains after blanking.
• Edge type: Choose wire edge if you want a decorative rim; flat edge for a larger setting area.
• Surface condition: Minimal deep scratches or corrosion; light hairlines are acceptable as they can be removed during polishing.
• Weight: The standard HR Saint weighs 33.436 g; after blanking you’ll lose roughly 2–3 g to the central hole and saw‑kerf.

Step 2: Blanking and Piercing

I use a hydraulic press with a 22 mm diameter die (standard men’s ring size) to punch the blank. Because the HR Saint is thicker than a silver dollar (~2.5 mm), I recommend:

• Using a sharp, carbide‑tipped punch to reduce deformation.
• Applying a light lubricant (e.g., WD‑40 Specialist) to minimize galling.
• Piercing the center with a 10 mm drill before the final press to relieve internal stress.

Step 3: Annealing and Shaping

After blanking, the coin will be work‑hardened. I anneal at 620 °C for 8 minutes, then quench in denatured alcohol to avoid oxidation. Subsequent steps:

1. Place the blank on a steel mandrel and gently hammer with a rawhide mallet to begin forming the circular shape.
2. Periodically re‑anneal after every 10–15 mm of diameter increase to prevent cracking.
3. Use a ring stretcher for the final size adjustment, applying incremental pressure and checking for thinning.

Step 4: Finishing the Band

Once the basic shape is achieved:

• File the interior smooth with a half‑round file, progressing from 120 to 400 grit.
• Polish the outer surface using a rotary tool with a felt bob and rouge, focusing on preserving the wire edge if present.
• If a patina is desired, apply liver of sulfur selectively, then rinse and seal with a microcrystalline wax.

Step 5: Setting Options (if adding a gemstone)

Although many artisans prefer to let the coin stand alone, you may wish to add a small accent stone:

• Bezel setting: Ideal for preserving the coin’s edge; creates a secure frame that follows the contour.
• Prong setting: Works best on the flat edge where there is sufficient metal to hold four‑six prongs.
• Flush setting: Possible only if the coin’s thickness allows a recessed seat without compromising structural integrity.

Authentication, Grading, and Their Impact on Crafting Potential

The numismatic market places a premium on high‑grade HR Saints, and those same grades influence how much material you have to work with.

How Grade Affects Usable Metal

• MS‑60 to MS‑63: Expect noticeable contact marks and possibly slight weakness in the high relief. These coins are more affordable and provide ample metal for a ring, but you may need to spend extra time polishing out surface imperfections.
• MS‑64 to MS‑66: Strong detail with minimal marks; ideal for showcasing the saint’s figure while preserving enough material for a durable band.
• MS‑67 and above (including SP/PR designations): Near‑gem quality with exceptional mirror fields. These coins command high numismatic premiums; using them for a ring may be cost‑prohibitive unless the collector, but they yield the finest possible visual result.

Verifying Authenticity Before Cutting

Because counterfeit HR Saints exist, I always perform these checks before committing to a cut:

1. Weight verification: 33.436 g ±0.15 g.
2. Diameter: 34 mm ±0.1 mm.
3. Edge inspection: Look for the characteristic wire or flat edge under 10× magnification; counterfeits often have a uniform, rounded rim.
4. Sound test: As described earlier, a genuine coin rings clearly.
5. Third‑party certification: If the coin is slabbed by PCGS or NGC, trust the label but still verify the weight and dimensions.

Market Perspective: Cost vs. Craft Value

From an investor’s standpoint, converting a numismatic treasure into jewelry alters its market dynamics. Consider these points before proceeding:

• Premium loss: Once altered, the coin is no longer eligible for traditional grading; its value shifts to the artisan jewelry market.
• Added value: A well‑crafted HR Saint ring can command prices ranging from $800 to $2,500 depending on gold price, craftsmanship, and any added gemstones.
• Collector appeal: Many numismatists appreciate wearable art as a way to enjoy their holdings daily; a ring can serve as a conversation piece and a portable display of history.
• Insurance: Obtain a rider that covers both the bullion value (based on gold weight) and the artistic value.

Actionable Takeaways for Buyers and Sellers

Whether you are sourcing an HR Saint for a ring project or looking to sell a finished piece, keep these guidelines in mind.

For Buyers Seeking a Candidate Coin

• Aim for MS‑64 or higher if you want a balance of detail and affordability.
• Confirm edge type (wire vs. flat) based on your design preference.
• Request a recent weight and diameter measurement from the seller; deviations >0.2 mm may indicate wear or damage.
• If possible, obtain a high‑resolution photo of the relief and fields to evaluate mirror quality.

For Sellers of Finished HR Saint Rings

• Provide a clear breakdown: gold weight (approx. 30 g after processing), craftsmanship hours, and any gemstone specifications.
• Include high‑resolution images showing both the obverse and reverse of the coin set within the ring.
• Offer a certificate of authenticity that references the original coin’s slab number (if applicable) and details any alterations made.
• Highlight the historical significance of the HR Saint (1907 High Relief, Saint‑Gaudens design) to attract both collectors and jewelry enthusiasts.

Conclusion: The HR Saint as a Bridge Between Numismatics and Wearable Art

The 1907 High Relief Saint‑Gaudens double eagle offers a unique confluence of artistic grandeur, historical importance, and material properties that make it a compelling candidate for a handcrafted ring. While its silver content is nil, the rich .900 gold‑copper alloy provides a warm, durable foundation that, when properly annealed and worked, can withstand the demands of daily wear. The coin’s extraordinary relief, distinctive wire or flat edge, and potential for mirror‑like fields translate into a wearable work of art that carries the legacy of early 20th‑century American coinage onto the finger of its wearer.

By respecting the metal’s limitations—particularly its propensity to work‑harden—and leveraging its strengths—the deep golden hue and intricate design—you can create a ring that is not only a beautiful accessory but also a tangible piece of numismatic history. Whether you are a collector looking to enjoy your treasure in a new form, an investor seeking to diversify the presentation of your assets, or a fellow artisan chasing the next exceptional project, the HR Saint stands as a testament to the enduring marriage of art and metallurgy.

In my own studio, each HR Saint ring I produce begins with a reverent glance at the saint’s steadfast gaze, a reminder that the same hands that once struck these coins in 1907 now shape them into symbols of personal adornment. The journey from blank to band is as much a dialogue with the past as it is a technical exercise, and the result is a piece that continues to tell its story—one gleam, one curve, and one worn‑in patina at a time.

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