How to Photograph the Luster on a 2020 Israel 1 Shekel Gold “Ruth” Coin: Capturing Cartwheel and Natural Color on a 103-Mintage Rarity

A bad photo can make a $1,000 coin look like a $10 coin. I’ve seen it happen more times than I care to count. Here’s how to properly light and capture the true essence of this extraordinary piece.

When I first pulled up the images from the Rimon auction house listing for the 2020 Israel 1 Shekel Gold “Ruth” coin, I felt a genuine jolt of frustration. This is a coin with a reported mintage of just 103 pieces—an almost unheard-of figure for a modern gold issue. But the photographs? Flat. Lifeless. They utterly failed to convey what makes this coin special. The cartwheel luster was invisible. The natural gold color looked washed out. The proof surfaces appeared dull. As someone who has spent years behind the lens photographing numismatic rarities, I can tell you that this coin deserves far better. In this masterclass, I’m going to walk you through exactly how I would photograph this specific piece to reveal its true beauty, its luster, and its character—using axial lighting, macro photography techniques, and careful attention to color accuracy.

Why the 2020 Israel 1 Shekel Gold “Ruth” Coin Deserves Professional Photography

Before we get into technique, let me set the stage for why this particular coin is worth the effort. The 2020 “Ruth” gold coin is part of Israel’s Biblical Art series, struck in gold with a denomination of 1 Shekel. According to the official Israel Mint distributor’s website, the final mintage was confirmed at just 103 pieces. For context, most modern commemorative gold coins that collectors consider “rare” have mintages in the thousands. A mintage of 103 is extraordinary—it means that at most, only 103 complete sets of the full Biblical Art series can ever exist.

Yet, as the forum discussion revealed, there is considerable debate about whether this scarcity translates into value. Some collectors pointed out that Israeli numismatics remains under-appreciated on the world market, citing language barriers, geopolitical factors, the sheer volume of commemorative types, and the distinctive art style of the Israel Mint as reasons for low demand. Others noted that even with tiny mintages, a coin is only worth what someone is willing to pay. One collector shared that a 2016 “Samson” gold coin from the same series, with a mintage of 236, sold successfully on APMEX for around $450. The “Ruth” at 103 mintage is, by that measure, the rarest small gold coin in the series.

But here’s the critical point for photographers and sellers alike: none of that story comes through in a bad photo. If you’re trying to sell, auction, or simply document a coin like this, your photography must do the heavy lifting. It must communicate rarity, quality, and desirability in a single glance. Let me show you how.

Understanding What You’re Trying to Capture

Every coin has a “personality” that good photography should reveal. With the 2020 “Ruth” gold coin, there are four key visual elements you need to capture:

• Cartwheel luster: The rolling reflection of light across the coin’s surface as it is tilted, caused by the original flow lines from the minting process. On a proof or proof-like gold coin, this is one of the most important indicators of grade and eye appeal.
• Natural color: Gold has a warm, distinctive hue that varies depending on the alloy composition. Israeli gold coins in this series are struck in high-purity gold, and the color should read as rich and saturated—not yellow-orange like a circulated copper coin, and not pale like a washed-out digital image.
• Surface quality: Proof coins should show mirror-like fields with sharp, frosted devices. Any hairlines, contact marks, or spots need to be visible for an honest representation—or skillfully minimized if you are presenting the coin at its best.
• Design detail: The Biblical Art series features intricate artistic designs inspired by ancient motifs. The detail in Ruth’s figure, the wheat sheaves, and the Hebrew inscriptions all need to be crisp and legible in your final image.

Equipment You Will Need for Numismatic Macro Photography

I’ve photographed thousands of coins over the years, and I can tell you that you don’t need a $10,000 setup to get stunning results. But you do need the right tools. Here’s what I recommend for a coin like the 2020 “Ruth”:

Camera and Lens

A digital camera with manual controls is essential. I use a full-frame mirrorless body, but a crop-sensor DSLR or even a high-end compact with macro capability can work. The key is a true macro lens—one that can achieve at least 1:1 magnification. My go-to is a 100mm macro lens, which gives me enough working distance to position lights without casting shadows from the lens itself. For a small gold coin like the 1 Shekel (which is roughly 18mm in diameter), you will want to fill the frame completely, and a macro lens lets you do that with beautiful sharpness and minimal distortion.

Lighting Setup

This is where the magic happens. For gold coins, I strongly recommend a dual-light axial lighting setup as your primary configuration, supplemented by off-axis accent lights for specific effects. Here’s how I build mine:

1. Primary axial light: A focused LED panel or fiber-optic light source positioned directly above the coin, shining straight down onto the surface. I use a small LED spotlight with a daylight-balanced color temperature (5000–5500K) and a high CRI (Color Rendering Index) of 95 or above. This is your main light for revealing surface texture, luster, and detail.
2. Beam splitter (for true axial lighting): A piece of plain glass or acrylic positioned at a 45-degree angle between the lens and the coin. The light reflects off the glass straight down onto the coin, and the camera shoots through the glass. This creates true axial illumination—light that travels along the same axis as the lens. The result is an even, shadowless wash of light that reveals every detail on the coin’s surface.
3. Off-axis accent lights (2x): Two small, adjustable LED lights positioned at roughly 15–30 degrees from the coin’s surface. These are your “luster lights.” When you tilt the coin slightly under these lights, the cartwheel effect comes alive. I use flexible gooseneck LED arms so I can fine-tune the angle precisely.
4. Diffusion material: A small piece of white diffusion fabric or tracing paper placed over the axial light to soften it and prevent harsh hotspots on the gold surface.

Support and Stability

Macro photography is unforgiving of movement. You will need:

• A sturdy copy stand or tripod with a macro focusing rail
• A coin holder or stage that allows you to tilt the coin precisely (I use a small adjustable vise with padded jaws)
• A remote shutter release or the camera’s self-timer to eliminate vibration
• A dark, non-reflective background—I prefer black velvet or matte black card stock

The Axial Lighting Technique: Step by Step

Axial lighting is the single most important technique for photographing proof and proof-like gold coins. Here’s why: when light shines directly onto a coin’s surface from the same angle as the lens, it illuminates the surface evenly and reveals the mirror-like quality of the fields while preserving the contrast of the frosted devices. For a coin like the 2020 “Ruth,” which is struck in proof finish, axial lighting will make the design “pop” in a way that no other lighting method can match.

Step 1: Position the Coin

Place the coin face-up on your stage. If you’re photographing the obverse (the side with Ruth’s portrait and the wheat motif), make sure the coin is perfectly level. Use a small spirit level if needed. For the initial axial lighting shot, you want the coin flat—no tilt.

Step 2: Set Up the Beam Splitter

Position your glass or acrylic beam splitter at 45 degrees between the camera lens and the coin. The camera should be looking straight down through the glass, and the light source should be off to the side, shining onto the glass at 45 degrees so that it reflects straight down onto the coin. This geometry is critical—if the angles are off, you will get uneven illumination.

Step 3: Focus Carefully

At macro distances, depth of field is razor-thin. Use manual focus and your camera’s live view with magnification to focus on the highest point of the coin’s design—usually the central device or the rim. I typically shoot at f/5.6 to f/8 for the best balance of sharpness and depth of field. Avoid going smaller than f/11, as diffraction will start to soften the image.

Step 4: Expose for the Gold

Gold is highly reflective, and your camera’s meter will almost certainly underexpose it, trying to turn that bright gold surface into a middle gray. I recommend shooting in manual mode and overexposing by about 1 to 1.5 stops from what the meter suggests. Use your histogram to confirm—you want the gold tones to fall in the bright-midtone range without clipping the highlights. Shoot in RAW format so you have maximum flexibility in post-processing.

Step 5: Capture the Cartwheel

Now, turn off the axial light and switch to your off-axis accent lights. Tilt the coin slowly—just a few degrees—while watching through the viewfinder. As the coin tilts, you will see the light “roll” across the surface. This is the cartwheel luster effect. Capture multiple images at different tilt angles. The best cartwheel shots typically occur at 5–15 degrees of tilt, depending on the coin’s surface and the light angle.

For the 2020 “Ruth,” I would expect a strong cartwheel given its proof finish and low mintage (which suggests careful handling at the mint). The cartwheel is what separates a Mint State 69 from a Mint State 70 in the eyes of many graders, and it is what makes a coin visually exciting to collectors. Never skip this step.

Macro Photography Tips for Small Gold Coins

The 1 Shekel gold coin is small—approximately 18mm in diameter and containing a quarter ounce of gold. At this size, every detail matters, and every flaw is magnified. Here are my top macro photography tips for coins in this size range:

Fill the Frame

Do not leave empty space around the coin. Get close enough that the coin fills at least 80% of the frame. This gives the viewer an intimate, detailed look at the design and surface quality. With a 100mm macro lens at 1:1 magnification, an 18mm coin will fill a full-frame sensor almost perfectly.

Focus Stacking for Maximum Sharpness

Because depth of field is so limited at macro distances, you may find that the entire coin is not in sharp focus in a single shot—especially if you are shooting at an angle to capture luster. The solution is focus stacking: take a series of images, shifting the focus point slightly between each one, and then combine them in software (Helicon Focus, Zerene Stacker, or Photoshop). The result is a single image that is tack-sharp from the nearest point to the farthest.

For the “Ruth” coin, I would typically shoot 8–12 images for a focus stack, moving the focusing rail in tiny increments. This technique is especially valuable for capturing the full depth of the relief on the wheat sheaves and Ruth’s figure.

Control Reflections on Gold Surfaces

Gold is the most reflective of all coin metals, and it will pick up every stray light source, reflection, and color cast in your studio. To control this:

• Turn off all ambient lights in the room
• Wear dark clothing (no white shirts!)
• Use a lens hood to prevent flare
• Position a black card or flag between the coin and any reflective surfaces
• Consider using a polarizing filter on your lens to reduce specular highlights

Showing Natural Color: White Balance and Post-Processing

One of the most common mistakes I see in coin photography is inaccurate color. Gold should look like gold—warm, rich, and saturated. But many photographers either leave the camera on auto white balance (which often cools down gold tones) or over-saturate in post-processing (which makes the coin look artificial).

Set a Custom White Balance

Before you start shooting, set a custom white balance using a gray card under your lighting setup. This ensures that your camera records the true color of the gold. If you are using daylight-balanced LEDs (5000–5500K), a custom white balance will give you the most accurate results. Do not rely on auto white balance—it will shift from frame to frame as you adjust the coin’s angle, and you will end up with inconsistent colors across your image set.

Post-Processing for Natural Gold Tones

In your RAW processor (I use Adobe Lightroom or Capture One), make these adjustments:

1. White balance fine-tuning: If the gold looks slightly cool, nudge the temperature slider warmer by 200–500K. If it looks too orange, pull it back slightly. The goal is a natural, warm gold tone.
2. Exposure and contrast: Adjust exposure so the gold reads as bright but not blown out. Add a touch of contrast to give the image “punch” without crushing shadows.
3. Saturation vs. vibrance: Use the vibrance slider rather than saturation. Vibrance boosts muted tones without over-saturating already-vivid colors, which is exactly what you want for gold.
4. Sharpening: Apply moderate sharpening (amount 40–60, radius 1.0–1.2 in Lightroom) to bring out fine detail in the design. Do not over-sharpen—it will create halos around the coin’s edges and make the image look processed.
5. Noise reduction: If you shot at higher ISO (which you should avoid when possible), apply noise reduction carefully. Too much will smear the fine detail you worked so hard to capture.

Photographing Both Sides and the Edge

A complete photographic record of a coin like the 2020 “Ruth” should include the obverse, the reverse, and the edge. Here’s how I approach each:

Obverse (Ruth Design)

This is your hero shot. Use the axial lighting setup described above to capture the full design with even illumination. Then capture a tilted luster shot showing the cartwheel. If the coin has cameo contrast (frosted devices on mirror fields), make sure your lighting emphasizes this—axial lighting with a slight off-axis accent will do the trick beautifully.

Reverse (Denomination and Inscriptions)

The reverse typically features the denomination, the Israel Mint mark, and Hebrew inscriptions. Use the same axial lighting technique, but pay special attention to the legibility of the Hebrew text. These small, intricate characters are a key part of the coin’s identity and should be clearly readable in your final image.

Edge

The edge of the coin can reveal important information about the minting process and can help with authentication. For a small gold coin, I use a single off-axis light positioned to graze across the edge, highlighting any reeding, lettering, or surface texture. A macro lens at close range will capture this detail sharply.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Over the years, I’ve seen the same mistakes repeated by coin photographers at every level. Here are the ones that hurt the most:

• Using a phone camera without a macro attachment: Phone cameras have improved dramatically, but they still cannot match a dedicated macro lens for sharpness, color accuracy, and control. If you must use a phone, at least clip on a macro lens attachment and use a tripod.
• Shooting in JPEG instead of RAW: JPEG files discard color and tonal information that you need for accurate post-processing. Always shoot RAW.
• Over-processing: Heavy-handed sharpening, excessive saturation, and aggressive contrast adjustments will make your coin look fake. Collectors and dealers can spot an over-processed image instantly, and it destroys trust.
• Ignoring the background: A cluttered, bright, or reflective background distracts from the coin. Use a clean, dark background and keep the focus on the metal.
• Not showing the cartwheel: If you only shoot the coin flat under axial lighting, you are missing the single most important visual element for proof and mint state coins. Always include at least one tilted luster shot.

Putting It All Together: A Shot List for the 2020 “Ruth” Gold Coin

Here’s the complete shot list I would use when photographing this coin for a sale listing, auction catalog, or personal collection record:

1. Obverse, axial lighting, coin flat: The primary reference image. Even illumination, full detail, accurate color.
2. Obverse, tilted for cartwheel luster: One or two images showing the light rolling across the surface. This is your “wow” shot.
3. Obverse, close-up macro of central device: A tight crop showing the detail in Ruth’s portrait and the wheat sheaves. Demonstrates the quality of the strike and the minting.
4. Reverse, axial lighting, coin flat: The secondary reference image. Clear inscriptions, visible mint mark.
5. Reverse, tilted for cartwheel luster: Same technique as obverse.
6. Edge shot: Showing the coin’s thickness, edge treatment, and any markings.
7. Scale reference shot: The coin next to a common object (a ruler, a U.S. quarter) to give viewers a sense of its small size.
8. Packaging shot (if applicable): If the coin comes in its original Israel Mint capsule or presentation case, photograph it as well. For a 103-mintage coin, original packaging adds significant numismatic value and supports provenance.

Why Photography Matters for Under-Appreciated Numismatics

The forum discussion about the 2020 “Ruth” coin touched on something important: Israeli numismatics is widely considered under-appreciated. Collectors cited language barriers, geopolitical sensitivities, the overwhelming number of commemorative types, and the unique art style as reasons why these coins have not gained the following that their scarcity might suggest. One collector made the astute observation that rarity alone does not create value—demand must exceed supply, and right now, demand for Israeli NCLT (Non-Circulating Legal Tender) gold coins is limited.

But here’s where photography becomes a tool for change. Great photography creates desire. When a collector scrolling through an auction catalog sees a stunning, well-lit image of a gold coin with blazing cartwheel luster and rich, natural color, something happens. They stop scrolling. They look closer. They imagine holding that coin in their hand. They start to want it.

I’ve seen this firsthand. Coins that I’ve photographed with care and skill have consistently sold for higher prices than the same coins photographed poorly. It’s not manipulation—it’s communication. You’re showing the coin as it truly is, in the best possible light (literally), and letting its beauty speak for itself.

For a coin like the 2020 “Ruth” with its 103 mintage, this is especially important. There may only be 103 of these in existence. The pool of potential buyers is small. But if your photograph can reach even a handful of those potential buyers and make them feel the excitement of owning this piece, you’ve done your job as a numismatic photographer.

Conclusion: The Intersection of Scarcity, Beauty, and Craft

The 2020 Israel 1 Shekel Gold “Ruth” coin from the Biblical Art series is a fascinating piece of modern numismatics. With a confirmed mintage of just 103 pieces, it represents one of the smallest production runs of any modern gold coin. Whether or not the current market fully appreciates its scarcity—and the forum discussion suggests that appreciation is still developing—the coin itself is a work of art, struck in high-purity gold with a proof finish that deserves to be seen and celebrated.

As numismatic photographers, we have the privilege and the responsibility of showing these coins as they truly are. Axial lighting reveals the mirror fields and frosted devices. Macro photography captures the intricate detail of the Biblical art motifs. Careful attention to white balance and color ensures that the gold reads as warm and natural. And the cartwheel luster shot—that rolling, shimmering reflection of light across the surface—is the exclamation point that says, “This coin is alive.”

If you have a coin like the 2020 “Ruth” in your collection, or if you’re considering acquiring one, take the time to photograph it properly. The effort you put into your images will pay dividends—whether you’re selling, insuring, cataloging, or simply sharing your passion with fellow collectors. A bad photo can make a $1,000 coin look like a $10 coin. A great photo can make the world take notice of a 103-mintage ghost.

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