How to Properly Store and Preserve Shell Oil State Tokens: A Conservation Guide for Collectors of Exonumia and Texaniana

I’ve seen too many valuable pieces ruined by improper cleaning or storage. Here is how to keep yours safe for the next generation.

Every week, I encounter collectors who have unknowingly destroyed the value and historical integrity of their pieces through well-intentioned but misguided preservation attempts. Whether you’re collecting Shell Oil state tokens, Morgan dollars, or ancient bronzes, the principles of proper conservation remain remarkably consistent. Let me walk you through everything I’ve learned about preserving your numismatic treasures.

Understanding What You’re Preserving: The Shell Oil State Token Series

Before diving into preservation techniques, let’s establish exactly what we’re working with. The piece in question is a Shell Oil state token from the 1969 series featuring all 50 states. These were promotional items distributed by Shell Oil Company during the late 1960s and early 1970s, making them approximately 55 years old at this point.

While individual tokens typically sell for under $5 in mint condition, and complete sets of all 50 states can be assembled for around $25, their collectibility among Texaniana enthusiasts and those compiling complete state sets makes proper preservation well worth the effort. These tokens represent a fascinating piece of American petroleum marketing history and mid-century promotional culture — and preserving their provenance and original surface matters more than most newcomers realize.

The Cardinal Rule: To Clean or Not to Clean

This is where I see the most damage occur. Never clean a coin or token unless you absolutely must, and even then, proceed with extreme caution.

Why Cleaning Destroys Value

When you clean a piece, you’re removing the original surface — what numismatists call the “original skin.” That surface contains:

• Original luster — the mint bloom that develops naturally over decades
• Natural toning — the patina that forms through controlled oxidation
• Microscopic details — fine die characteristics that prove authenticity
• Historical evidence — the story of how the piece was stored and handled

I’ve examined thousands of pieces where well-meaning owners have used everything from pencil erasers to commercial polish. The result is always the same: a piece that looks “shiny” to the untrained eye but is essentially worthless to serious collectors. The eye appeal is gone. The numismatic value is gone. What you’re left with is a damaged token that tells no story at all.

When Cleaning Might Be Necessary

There are limited circumstances where intervention is appropriate:

1. Active corrosion — If you see green verdigris spreading on copper-based tokens, this acidic compound will continue eating into the metal
2. PVC contamination — The soft, sticky green residue from certain plastic holders requires immediate attention
3. Biological contamination — Mold or organic matter that could spread to other pieces in your collection

In these cases, I recommend distilled water only for initial cleaning, followed by professional conservation if the problem persists. Never use tap water — the chlorine and minerals can cause additional damage.

Understanding Toning: Friend or Foe?

Toning is one of the most misunderstood aspects of coin and token preservation. Let me clarify what you need to know.

Natural vs. Artificial Toning

Natural toning develops slowly over decades as the metal surface reacts with sulfur compounds in the air, creating thin oxide and sulfide layers. This process produces the beautiful rainbow colors you sometimes see on silver and copper pieces — and it’s one of the most sought-after characteristics for enhancing a piece’s eye appeal.

Artificial toning is created through chemical treatment — often using liver of sulfur or heat — to simulate age or create eye-catching colors. Experienced collectors can usually distinguish between the two, and getting it wrong can devastate a piece’s collectibility.

How Toning Affects Value

For modern tokens like the Shell Oil series, toning has minimal impact on value since these pieces are collected primarily for their historical and novelty appeal rather than their numismatic grade. However, for silver and gold coins, toning can dramatically affect value:

• Original, attractive toning can add 10–50% to a coin’s value
• Unattractive or spotty toning can reduce value by 20–40%
• Questionable toning — where artificial treatment is suspected — can make a piece unsaleable to serious collectors

The Silent Killer: PVC Damage

If there’s one thing that makes me cringe when examining collections, it’s PVC damage. This is perhaps the most common and most preventable form of numismatic destruction.

What Is PVC Damage?

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) was commonly used in soft plastic coin flips and holders from the 1960s through the 1980s. Over time, these holders release chlorine gas, which reacts with moisture to form hydrochloric acid. This acid attacks the metal surface, creating:

• Green, sticky residue — the most visible sign of PVC damage
• Etching and pitting — permanent surface damage that cannot be reversed
• Discoloration — often appearing as hazy or cloudy areas that kill the luster

How to Identify PVC Holders

PVC holders are typically soft, flexible, and slightly sticky to the touch. They often have a distinctive plastic smell. If you have older collections stored in soft plastic flips, check them immediately for signs of damage. I’ve seen entire collections — pieces with decades of original patina and genuine eye appeal — reduced to sticky, green-stained tokens because of a single bad flip.

The Solution

Transfer any pieces in PVC holders to Mylar (polyethylene terephthalate) flips immediately. Mylar is chemically inert and will not damage your coins or tokens. This simple step can save you hundreds or thousands of dollars in value. It’s the single most impactful preservation move any collector can make.

Proper Storage: Creating the Ideal Environment

Proper storage is about more than just choosing the right holder. You need to consider the entire storage environment — temperature, humidity, air quality, and light exposure all play a role in whether your collection endures or deteriorates.

Choosing the Right Holders

For tokens like the Shell Oil state series, I recommend the following storage options:

1. 2×2 cardboard flips with Mylar windows — Affordable, archival quality, and allow for easy viewing and labeling
2. Plastic tube holders — Good for storing multiple pieces of the same size
3. Albums with Mylar pages — Ideal for display and organization of complete sets
4. Slabbed encapsulation — Only for high-value pieces worth the grading fee

Avoid these materials entirely:

• Soft PVC flips and holders
• Rubber bands (sulfur content causes toning)
• Paper envelopes (acid content can cause spotting)
• Wooden cabinets (off-gasses acids that damage metal)

Environmental Controls

The ideal storage environment maintains:

• Temperature: 65–70°F (18–21°C) with minimal fluctuation
• Relative humidity: 30–40% — higher humidity accelerates corrosion
• Air quality: Low sulfur content; avoid storing near kitchens, bathrooms, or industrial areas
• Light exposure: Minimal UV light, which can accelerate toning and discoloration

I store my own collection in a dedicated cabinet in a climate-controlled room, with silica gel packets to maintain consistent humidity levels. It takes a few extra minutes to set up, but the peace of mind is invaluable.

Handling Best Practices

How you handle your pieces matters as much as how you store them. A single careless moment can undo years of careful preservation.

The Golden Rules of Handling

1. Always hold pieces by the edges — never touch the faces
2. Work over a soft surface — a padded mat or towel to cushion any drops
3. Wash hands before handling — oils and acids from skin cause damage over time
4. Use cotton gloves for valuable pieces — though some collectors, myself included, prefer clean, dry hands for better grip on smaller tokens
5. Never slide pieces across surfaces — this creates hairline scratches that reduce both eye appeal and numismatic value

Photographing Your Collection

Good photography serves dual purposes: documentation for insurance and sharing with other collectors. Based on the forum discussions I’ve seen, I can’t emphasize enough the importance of clear, well-focused photographs.

Tips for better numismatic photography:

• Use natural light or a daylight-balanced lamp
• Include a plain, non-distracting background
• Ensure the piece is in sharp focus — use a tripod if necessary
• Capture both obverse and reverse
• Include a scale reference when possible
• Trim unnecessary background from your images

Sharp photos that capture the strike details, luster, and any toning patterns will serve you well when evaluating a rare variety or establishing provenance with fellow collectors.

Building a Complete Collection: The Shell Oil State Token Set

For those interested in assembling a complete set of Shell Oil state tokens, here’s what I’ve learned from years of tracking this series.

The Complete Series

The Shell Oil state token series includes all 50 United States, issued in 1969. Each token features state-specific designs, making them appealing to collectors of state-specific memorabilia and Texaniana enthusiasts. The Texas variety, in particular, tends to carry a premium due to strong regional demand.

Market Values and Availability

Current market values (as of recent eBay sold listings):

• Individual tokens: $5–$10 depending on condition and state desirability
• Complete sets of 50: Approximately $25 for the full collection
• Texas tokens: Particularly sought after by Texaniana collectors

These pieces are readily available through online marketplaces, coin shows, and estate sales. Their relatively low individual value makes them excellent pieces for beginning collectors to practice proper preservation techniques — and they’re a genuinely fun set to chase down in mint condition.

When to Seek Professional Help

Sometimes, amateur conservation attempts cause more harm than good. Here’s when I tell collectors to step back and consult a professional.

Signs You Need Professional Conservation

• Active corrosion that’s spreading despite your efforts
• Severe PVC damage affecting the piece’s structural integrity
• Unknown substances on the surface that you can’t safely identify or remove
• High-value pieces where improper treatment could cost thousands in lost numismatic value

Finding a Qualified Conservator

Look for professionals affiliated with organizations like the American Institute for Conservation (AIC) or those with specific numismatic conservation experience. The Numismatic Guaranty Company (NGC) and Professional Coin Grading Service (PCGS) also offer conservation services. Don’t trust your rare variety tokens to someone without verifiable credentials — the wrong treatment is often irreversible.

Conclusion: Preserving History for Future Generations

The Shell Oil state tokens of 1969 may not command the prices of rare silver dollars or ancient bronzes, but they represent an important piece of American commercial and cultural history. Every piece in your collection tells a story — of the era it was created, the hands it passed through, and the care (or neglect) it received over the decades.

By following these preservation guidelines, you’re not just protecting your investment — you’re serving as a steward of history. The next generation of collectors will thank you for the care you take today.

Remember these key takeaways:

• Never clean unless absolutely necessary
• Remove pieces from PVC holders immediately
• Control your storage environment — temperature, humidity, and air quality matter
• Handle with care — always by the edges, over soft surfaces
• Document everything — good photographs and records protect your investment and preserve provenance

Whether you’re collecting Shell Oil tokens, Morgan dollars, or ancient bronzes, the principles remain the same. Preserve the original surface, control the environment, and handle with respect. Protect the luster, honor the patina, and maintain the eye appeal that makes each strike unique. Your collection — and the history it represents — will endure.

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