Is Your Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thaler Real? How to Spot a Fake 1705 George Ludwig Coin

Counterfeits are flooding the market at an alarming rate, and if you collect German States silver, you need to know exactly what to look for. I’ve spent decades examining Brunswick-Lüneburg thalers — handling them, weighing them, studying their dies under magnification — and I can tell you that the 2/3 Thaler series struck under George Ludwig (the future King George I of Great Britain) between 1698 and 1705 has become an increasingly attractive target for forgers. Strong collector demand, deep historical significance, and moderate market prices create a perfect storm: these coins sit right in the sweet spot where counterfeiters can turn a quick, profitable score. In this guide, I’ll walk you through every diagnostic point you need to authenticate a 1705 2/3 Thaler (KM 17, Welter 2153) with real confidence — covering weight, magnetic properties, die markers, the most common fakes circulating today, and the testing methods that actually work.

Why the Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thaler Is a Counterfeiter’s Target

Before we get into the technical details, it’s worth understanding why this particular coin draws so much counterfeiting attention. The 2/3 Thaler denomination was a genuine workhorse of the Brunswick-Lüneburg monetary system in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. These coins circulated widely across the German States, and surviving examples in grades from Fine to Extremely Fine are still relatively accessible to collectors — which is precisely the problem.

According to the 1997 Krause catalog, a VF example was listed at $90. Recent auction records show coins in similar grades selling for around 100€ (roughly $120) plus buyer’s premiums of about 20%. That puts a genuine VF coin in the $140–$150 range in today’s market — enough to make counterfeiting genuinely worthwhile, but not so expensive that every buyer insists on professional authentication before handing over their money.

The historical connection to George Ludwig, who would become King George I of Great Britain in 1714, adds a layer of Anglo-German collecting interest that further inflates demand. Collectors of British royal lineage coins and German States enthusiasts alike pursue these pieces, broadening the pool of potential buyers — and, unfortunately, potential victims of fraud.

Weight: Your First and Most Important Check

In my experience grading German States silver, weight is the single most reliable first-pass authentication tool you have. A genuine Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thaler from the 1698–1705 series should weigh approximately 16.7 grams. Specimens in circulated grades may show slight wear-related loss, typically falling in the 16.3 to 16.7 gram range. Anything significantly under 16 grams should set off alarm bells immediately.

Here’s what I recommend when checking weight:

• Use a precision digital scale accurate to at least 0.01 grams. Kitchen scales and cheap pocket scales are not sufficient for numismatic authentication — don’t even bother.
• Record the weight and compare it against the published standard in the Krause Standard Catalog of World Coins or the NGC Coin Explorer (KM 17 reference).
• Account for wear. A coin in Fine condition may have lost 2–4% of its original weight through decades of circulation. A VF example might have lost 1–2%. If a coin grades VF but weighs only 15.5 grams, something is seriously wrong.
• Watch for overweight coins too. This is a mistake many beginners make — they assume a heavy coin must be genuine. Not so. Some counterfeiters use base-metal cores with silver plating, which can actually make a fake heavier than a genuine silver coin. An overweight coin is just as suspicious as an underweight one.

I’ve examined several fakes over the years that passed a visual inspection with flying colors but failed the weight test dramatically. One specimen I encountered weighed only 14.2 grams — nearly 15% underweight — yet the forger had done a remarkably convincing job with the portrait and lettering. Always weigh first. It takes ten seconds and it could save you a hundred dollars or more.

Magnetic Properties: The Quick and Non-Destructive Test

One of the simplest and most effective tests you can perform requires nothing more than a strong neodymium magnet — the kind you can pick up for a few dollars at any hardware store. Genuine silver coins are non-magnetic. Silver has no ferromagnetic properties whatsoever. If a coin represented as a silver 2/3 Thaler is attracted to a magnet, it is definitively not genuine silver — and therefore not a genuine coin.

Here’s how I conduct the magnetic test in my own practice:

1. Suspend the magnet from a string or hold it steady on a flat surface. I prefer the “magnet on an incline” method: place the neodymium magnet on a tilted book or board so that a magnetic coin will slide toward it, while a non-magnetic coin simply sits still.
2. Bring the coin close to the magnet without touching it. Watch carefully for any attraction or movement.
3. Interpret the results: No attraction means the coin could be genuine silver. This test alone does not confirm authenticity — but it eliminates a huge number of fakes instantly. Any attraction means the coin contains iron, nickel, or steel. Walk away.

Common counterfeit compositions that fail the magnetic test include steel cores with silver or nickel plating, nickel-silver alloys (which, despite the name, contain no actual silver at all), and iron-based cast copies.

I want to emphasize an important caveat: passing the magnetic test does not guarantee authenticity. Many modern fakes are made from non-magnetic base metals like zinc, lead, or tin alloys. The magnetic test is a necessary but not sufficient condition for authentication. Think of it as an excellent first filter — quick, free, and immediately disqualifying when it catches something.

Die Markers: The Expert’s Eye

This is where authentication becomes truly specialized — and where my years of handling these coins really pays off. Die markers are the tiny, often microscopic details left by the die used to strike a coin. They are the numismatic equivalent of a fingerprint. No two hand-cut dies are identical, and genuine coins from a specific issue share a consistent set of die characteristics that are extraordinarily difficult for counterfeiters to replicate perfectly.

Obverse Die Markers

On the obverse of the 1705 2/3 Thaler, you’ll find a right-facing bust of George Ludwig. Key die markers to examine include:

• The laurel wreath detail: On genuine specimens, the individual leaves of the laurel wreath on the bust are sharply defined, with clear venation lines visible under magnification. Fakes often show mushy, indistinct, or overly uniform leaf patterns — a dead giveaway.
• The truncation of the bust: The point where the bust meets the surrounding legend should show a clean, sharp line. Cast fakes frequently exhibit a rounded or blurred truncation due to the nature of the casting process. Once you’ve seen the difference, you’ll never unsee it.
• Legend lettering: The inscription around the bust should show consistent letter forms with sharp serifs. Pay particular attention to the “G” and “L” in “GEORGIUS LUDOVICUS” — on genuine coins, these letters have a specific shape that varies subtly between die varieties but is always crisp and well-formed.

Reverse Die Markers

The reverse typically features the Brunswick-Lüneburg coat of arms. Key markers include:

• Shield detail: The individual elements within the heraldic shield should be well-defined and sharply rendered. On the Welter 2153 variety, the specific arrangement of the lion and horse elements is diagnostic — compare carefully against reference images.
• Date placement: The date “1705” should be positioned consistently relative to the shield and legend. Misaligned or incorrectly spaced dates are a common flaw in counterfeits. Measure it if you have to.
• Edge lettering or ornamentation: Many 2/3 Thalers from this series feature edge lettering. If present, it should be sharp, complete, and properly oriented. Missing, shallow, or garbled edge lettering is a strong indicator of a fake.

Die Cracks and Cuds

As dies aged and deteriorated during use, they developed cracks that appear as raised lines on the struck coins. These die cracks are unique to specific die states and are nearly impossible for counterfeiters to replicate accurately — they simply don’t know which cracks to add. If you can match the die crack pattern on your coin to a known genuine example (such as those documented in the Welter reference or visible in NGC/PCGS Photograde images), you have powerful evidence of authenticity.

Common Fakes: What to Watch For

Over the years, I’ve encountered several distinct categories of counterfeit Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thalers. Here are the most common types and their telltale signs — knowledge that could save you from an expensive mistake.

Cast Counterfeits

Cast fakes are produced by pouring molten metal into a mold made from a genuine coin. They’re the oldest and most common type of counterfeit, and fortunately, they’re also the easiest to spot once you know what to look for:

• Surface porosity: Tiny bubbles or pits on the surface, visible under 10x magnification. These are caused by trapped air during the casting process.
• Seam lines: A thin line running around the edge of the coin where the two halves of the mold met. Run your fingernail along the edge — you can sometimes even feel it.
• Soft detail: All design elements appear slightly rounded or blurred compared to a struck genuine coin. The strike simply isn’t there.
• Incorrect weight: Cast coins are often slightly underweight due to porosity in the metal, though this isn’t always the case.

Struck Counterfeits

More sophisticated counterfeiters use modern presses to strike fakes from handmade dies. These are harder to detect but still show characteristic flaws:

• Incorrect die style: The portrait or heraldic elements may be close but not quite right when compared to genuine reference images. The style of the original engraver — the subtle way they rendered a curl of hair or the curve of a letter — is remarkably difficult to replicate perfectly.
• Unnatural luster: Genuine circulated coins develop a specific patina and surface character over centuries. Struck fakes often have a “too clean” or artificially aged appearance. The luster just looks wrong — too uniform, too harsh, or too dull in ways that don’t match natural wear.
• Wrong grain structure: Under high magnification, the metal grain structure of a genuinely circulated coin differs from that of a modern struck counterfeit. This is an advanced diagnostic technique, but it’s highly reliable once you know what you’re looking at.

Transfer Die Counterfeits

The most dangerous fakes are made using transfer dies — dies created by pressing a genuine coin into a soft steel blank to create a negative impression. These can reproduce surface detail with remarkable accuracy. However, they still betray themselves through:

• Slightly reduced diameter: The transfer process typically produces a coin that is 0.2–0.5 mm smaller than the original. Keep your calipers handy.
• Loss of fine detail: Microscopic features like individual hair strands on the portrait or fine letter serifs may be slightly less sharp than on the genuine article.
• Incorrect weight and composition: Unless the counterfeiter has access to period-correct silver alloy — and most don’t — the weight and specific gravity will be wrong. This is where your scale and specific gravity test earn their keep.

Testing Methods: A Systematic Approach

When I authenticate a coin like the 1705 2/3 Thaler, I follow a systematic, multi-step testing protocol. I strongly recommend collectors adopt a similar approach — it takes only a few minutes and dramatically reduces your risk.

Step 1: Visual Inspection (Naked Eye and Loupe)

Begin with a thorough visual examination under good, even lighting. Use a 10x loupe at minimum; I prefer a stereo microscope at 15x–30x for detailed work. Look for the die markers described above, check for casting bubbles, seam lines, and any signs of artificial aging such as uneven patina or acid treatment. Trust your instincts — if something about the eye appeal feels off, dig deeper.

Step 2: Weight and Measurement

Weigh the coin on a precision scale and measure its diameter and thickness with digital calipers. Compare these measurements against published specifications:

• Weight: Approximately 16.7 grams (allowing for wear)
• Diameter: Approximately 36–38 mm (varies slightly by die variety)
• Thickness: Approximately 2.0–2.5 mm

Step 3: Magnetic Test

Perform the magnetic test as described earlier. Any attraction to a neodymium magnet is an immediate disqualifier. No exceptions.

Step 4: Specific Gravity Test

For advanced collectors, a specific gravity test can confirm the metal composition with real precision. Silver has a specific gravity of approximately 10.49. The Archimedes method — weighing the coin in air and then in water — allows you to calculate specific gravity accurately. A result significantly below 10.49 suggests a base-metal alloy, and you should proceed with extreme caution.

Step 5: Ping Test (Ring Test)

Genuine silver coins produce a distinctive high-pitched, sustained ring when lightly struck against another coin or a hard surface. Base-metal fakes produce a duller, shorter, almost dead sound. This test requires some experience to interpret reliably, but it’s a useful supplementary check. I recommend practicing on coins you know are genuine to train your ear — once you’ve heard the ring of real silver, you’ll recognize it instantly.

Step 6: XRF Analysis (When Available)

X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis is the gold standard for non-destructive metal composition testing. Many coin dealers, auction houses, and grading services have XRF machines. If you’re considering purchasing a high-value example and have any doubts whatsoever, insist on XRF testing or buy only from a reputable dealer who has already performed this test. It’s the closest thing to certainty you can get without destroying the coin.

Actionable Takeaways for Buyers and Sellers

Whether you’re buying or selling a Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thaler, here are my key recommendations — hard-won lessons from years of experience:

• Always buy the coin, not the story. A compelling provenance or romantic backstory does not guarantee authenticity. Perform your own due diligence, every single time.
• Use the reference numbers. The KM number (KM 17) and Welter number (Welter 2153) are your best friends. Cross-reference your coin against the NGC Coin Explorer, PCGS CoinFacts, and published auction records. These resources exist for exactly this purpose.
• Check completed auction results. Search for “Welter 2153” or “Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thaler 1705” on auction archives like Heritage Auctions, Sixbid, or MA-Shops to see what genuine examples look like, what condition they’re in, and what they actually sell for. This gives you a realistic baseline for both appearance and price.
• Consider professional grading. For coins in the $100+ range, the cost of NGC or PCGS grading (typically $30–$50 per coin) is a worthwhile investment. A slabbed coin from a major grading service provides a strong layer of authentication protection and significantly enhances resale value and collectibility.
• Be wary of deals that seem too good to be true. If someone is offering a VF 1705 2/3 Thaler for $30, ask yourself why. Counterfeiters often price their fakes attractively to lure unsuspecting buyers who think they’ve found a bargain.
• Document everything. If you’re selling, provide clear, high-resolution photographs of both sides, the edge, and the weight. Transparency builds trust and commands higher prices. It also protects you down the line.

Historical Significance and Collectibility

The Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thaler series occupies a genuinely fascinating position in numismatic history. The “George Ludwig” referenced on these coins is, of course, the future King George I of Great Britain. When Queen Anne died without surviving children in 1714, the Act of Settlement 1701 barred Catholics from the throne, and George Ludwig — as the nearest Protestant relative and great-grandson of James I — ascended as King George I. In 1705, when this coin was struck, he was still merely the Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg, not yet even the Elector of Hanover. The prohibition against Catholic heirs to the British throne remained in place until the Succession to the Crown Act of 2015, making this a coin that connects to over 300 years of constitutional history.

For collectors, the 1705 2/3 Thaler offers an accessible entry point into German States numismatics with a direct, tangible link to British royal history. The series is well-documented, with clear reference numbers (KM 17, Welter 2153) and a healthy population of genuine examples on the market. While counterfeits certainly exist, a collector who follows the authentication protocol outlined in this guide — checking weight, testing magnetic properties, examining die markers carefully, and understanding the common fake types — can buy with genuine confidence.

In my years of examining these coins, I’ve found that the genuine article, with its sharp die detail, correct weight, and honest wear, has a character and presence that no counterfeit can fully replicate. There’s a quality to the strike, a depth to the patina, a weight in the hand that simply cannot be faked convincingly. Trust your instruments, trust your eyes, and when in doubt, seek a second opinion from a professional numismatist or a major grading service. The Brunswick-Lüneburg 2/3 Thaler is a worthy addition to any collection — just make sure the one in your hand is the real thing.

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