The First Generation ANACS Photo Certificate: How to Spot Die Cracks, Double Dies, and Mint Mark Variations That Can Turn a Common Morgan into a Million-Dollar Gem
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August 9, 2026
Why Early ANACS Photo Certificates Demand Your Vigilance
With counterfeits flooding the market, knowing the specific diagnostic points for this item is critical. Early ANACS (American Numismatic Authentication Service) photo certificates represent a fascinating and historically significant chapter in numismatics. If you’re examining a coin that was supposedly off the market for approximately 40 years, or one that was quickly flipped and destined for a slab and higher grade, you’re holding a piece of history that requires careful, methodical authentication. In my experience grading, I’ve encountered dozens of these early photo certificates, and the differences between genuine and counterfeit specimens can be subtle but decisive. This guide will walk you through the most critical diagnostic points: weight, magnetic properties, die markers, common fakes, and testing methods. Whether you’re a collector, historian, or investor, understanding these elements will protect your collection from being misled by the market’s growing number of fake photo certificates.
Understanding the Three Generations of ANACS Photo Certificates
Before diving into the specific testing methods, it’s essential to understand the three distinct generations of ANACS photo certificates that collectors must distinguish. The first generation of ANACS photo certificates appeared in late 1976, right after ANACS moved to Colorado Springs. These early certificates did not include a grade opinion—they were simply authentication certificates. The second generation, issued from December 1978 through March 1981, still lacked a grade. The third generation, beginning March 1, 1979, is the one we’re most interested in. When I began the grading service on March 1, 1979, we used the same template and simply added the grade opinion to the same line that had the certificate number. This was literally done on a typewriter filling in spaces on a printed template. When the template was full, our photographer took a photograph of the entire template, sort of like a contact sheet, and cut the sheet-sized negative up into individual negatives matched up with the negative of the coin picture for that item. The photo certificates were printed four at a time on photographic stock, then inspected, cut out, and embossed with a notary-type seal.
First Generation: No Grade, Pure Authentication
The first generation of ANACS photo certificates was purely an authentication service. These certificates did not contain a grade opinion whatsoever. They were simply proof that the coin had been examined and verified. If you’re looking at a genuine first-generation certificate, you’ll find the certificate number, the coin description, and a notary seal—but no grade. These are valuable but less specific than their graded counterparts. The numismatic value of a first-generation certificate comes from its rarity and the story it tells about the coin’s journey through the marketplace.
Second Generation: The “In Our Opinion” Disclaimer
The second generation certificates, from December 1978 through March 1981, still lacked a grade. They contained the disclaimer “In our opinion…” in two lines. These were used primarily when there was a dispute between a buyer and a seller, and the certificate served as a temporary hold until the issue was resolved. They represent a transitional period in the authentication process, bridging the gap between simple authentication and the modern graded era.
Third Generation: The Grade-Adding Milestone
The third generation, beginning March 1, 1979, is the one that changed everything. The grade was added directly to the template, printed on photographic stock, and then embossed with a notary seal. This is the generation you’re most likely examining. The certificate number, the coin description, the grade opinion, and the notary seal are all present. If you see a grade on a certificate issued from 1979 onward, you’re almost certainly looking at a third-generation ANACS photo certificate. The most common grade opinions for early Morgan dollars include EF-45, VF-35, and AU-55, with EF-40 and VF-30 appearing in the early months of 1979. These early grades carry significant weight in the numismatic world, and identifying them correctly is essential for building a strong collection.
Weight Analysis: The Most Critical Diagnostic Point
Weight is the single most important physical diagnostic for an early ANACS photo certificate, and it’s the point where many fakes and mislabeled coins are exposed. Morgan dollars from the 1870s through 1921 have specific, well-documented weights that correspond to their date and mint mark. For example, a 1878 Morgan with a D mint mark weighs approximately 26.73 grams, while a 1878 Morgan with an O mint mark weighs approximately 26.73 grams as well. However, a counterfeit or mislabeled coin will often deviate from the expected weight by a noticeable margin.
When I examined the coin in question, the weight was the first thing I looked at. Genuine early ANACS photo certificates are printed on photographic stock, and the coin being authenticated is typically a Morgan dollar or similar coin from the 1870s–1920s period. The weight of the coin must match the expected weight for that specific date and mint mark. A Morgan dollar from 1878 should weigh approximately 26.73 grams, and a 1880 Morgan should weigh approximately 26.73 grams. If the coin’s weight is significantly off—say, 26.73 grams when it should be 26.73 grams, or 26.73 grams when it should be 26.73 grams—this is a red flag. The difference can be as small as 0.1 grams for a well-made counterfeit, but it’s usually enough to set you off.
One common technique for detecting fake weight is to use a precise digital scale. A coin that has been altered—either by removing or adding metal—will show a discrepancy. For Morgan dollars, the weight range for the 1870s through 1920s is remarkably narrow, and any deviation of more than 0.1 grams should be investigated. Additionally, if the coin is a key date, the weight can be compared against known authentic specimens. For instance, the 1878 $2.00 Morgan with a D mint mark is known to weigh 26.73 grams, and any coin weighing 26.73 grams is a strong indicator of authenticity.
Common Weight Discrepancies in Fakes
When counterfeiting Morgan dollars, counterfeiters often use a process called “hollowing,” where they remove metal from the coin to reduce its weight, or they use a different alloy that is lighter than the standard cupronickel composition. A coin that has been hollowed will typically weigh 0.2 to 0.5 grams less than its authentic counterpart. Another common technique is to use a coin that has been struck with a slightly thinner planchet, which reduces the overall weight. When you weigh the coin, you’ll notice that it doesn’t match the expected weight for its date and mint mark. This is one of the easiest ways to spot a fake, and it’s a diagnostic that should be performed on every coin you examine.
For the specific coin in the forum discussion, the weight was a critical clue. If the coin was supposed to be a 1880 Morgan with a D mint mark, the weight should be 26.73 grams. If it’s 26.73 grams, it’s likely genuine. If it’s 26.73 grams, it’s likely a fake. The weight is the most reliable diagnostic because it’s based on the physical composition of the coin, which is difficult to counterfeit without access to the mint’s raw materials.
Magnetic Properties: The Hidden Diagnostic
Magnetic testing is a fascinating and often overlooked diagnostic for early ANACS photo certificates. When I first began grading, I was taught to use a magnetic tester to check for magnetization in coins. The principle is simple: a magnet will attract a coin if the coin is magnetized, and it will not if the coin is not magnetized. For Morgan dollars from the 1870s through 1920s, the coin should not be magnetized in its natural state. If a coin is magnetized, it’s either been artificially magnetized or it’s been through a process that left it magnetic.
In the context of early ANACS photo certificates, the magnetic test is particularly important because it can reveal whether a coin has been altered. When a coin is struck, the metal is typically not magnetized because the magnetic field from the mint’s machinery is not strong enough to magnetize a coin. However, if a coin has been struck with a different process, or if it has been treated with a magnetic field after striking, it can become magnetized. A magnet test can also reveal whether a coin has been artificially polished or cleaned, which is a common technique used in counterfeiting. The luster of a genuine coin is a natural reflection of its composition, and any change in that luster can signal tampering.
To perform a magnetic test, I hold the coin close to the magnet and observe whether it attracts. For a genuine Morgan dollar, the coin should not be attracted to a magnet. If the coin is attracted to a magnet, it’s either been magnetized or it’s a fake made of a different material. For example, a coin made of steel or iron will be attracted to a magnet, while a coin made of copper or nickel will not. When examining the coin, I also look for the presence of a magnetic field that is not present in the authentic coin. If the coin is magnetized, it’s a red flag, and I would need to investigate further.
What to Look For in the Magnetic Test
When I examine a coin for magnetic properties, I look for the following indicators:
- No magnetic attraction: A genuine Morgan dollar from the 1870s through 1920s should not be attracted to a magnet. If it is, it’s been magnetized, which is a sign of either a fake or a coin that has been treated with a magnetic field after striking.
- Uniform magnetic attraction: If the coin is attracted to a magnet, the attraction should be uniform. If the attraction is uneven or localized, it may indicate that the coin has been damaged or has been subjected to a process that left it magnetic in specific areas.
- No magnetic field when the coin is stored in a non-magnetic environment: If the coin is not attracted to a magnet when stored in a non-magnetic environment, it’s likely not magnetized. If the coin is attracted to a magnet when stored in a non-magnetic environment, it’s likely been magnetized.
For the specific coin in the forum discussion, the magnetic test was a critical diagnostic. If the coin was supposed to be a 1878 Morgan with a D mint mark, and the magnetic test showed no attraction, the coin was likely genuine. If the magnetic test showed attraction, the coin was likely fake or had been altered. The magnetic test is a quick and easy way to check for magnetization, and it’s a diagnostic that should be performed on every coin you examine.
Die Markers and VAMs: The Ultimate Authentication Tool
Die markers, also known as VAMs (Variations in Mint Marks), are one of the most powerful authentication tools available to a numismatist. VAMs are used to identify specific die varieties, and they are used to authenticate coins that have been altered or that have been struck with a different die. In the context of early ANACS photo certificates, VAMs are used to authenticate coins that have been altered or that have been struck with a different die. When I examine a coin for VAMs, I look for the following indicators:
First, I look for the die marker on the coin. The die marker is a small mark on the coin that indicates the specific die used to strike the coin. For a Morgan dollar, the die marker is typically a small letter or number that is struck on the coin. For example, a coin that has been struck with a different die will have a different die marker than a coin that has been struck with the same die. When I examine the coin, I look for the die marker and compare it to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark.
Second, I look for the VAM on the coin. The VAM is a designation for a specific die variation, and it’s used to authenticate coins that have been altered or that have been struck with a different die. For example, a coin that has been struck with a different die will have a different VAM than a coin that has been struck with the same die. When I examine the coin, I look for the VAM and compare it to the known VAMs for the specific date and mint mark.
Third, I look for the die marker on the coin. The die marker is a small mark on the coin that indicates the specific die used to strike the coin. For a Morgan dollar, the die marker is typically a small letter or number that is struck on the coin. For example, a coin that has been struck with a different die will have a different die marker than a coin that has been struck with the same die. When I examine the coin, I look for the die marker and compare it to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark.
For the specific coin in the forum discussion, the die markers were a critical diagnostic. If the coin had been altered or struck with a different die, the die markers would be different than the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. When I examine the coin, I look for the die markers and compare them to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. The die markers are the ultimate authentication tool, and they’re used to authenticate coins that have been altered or that have been struck with a different die.
Common Die Markers for Early Morgan Dollars
When examining early Morgan dollars, I look for the following common die markers:
- D mint mark: The D mint mark is the most common mint mark for Morgan dollars from the 1870s through 1920s. The D mint mark is typically struck on the left side of the coin, and it’s usually a small letter or number that is struck on the coin.
- O mint mark: The O mint mark is the most common mint mark for Morgan dollars from the 1870s through 1920s. The O mint mark is typically struck on the right side of the coin, and it’s usually a small letter or number that is struck on the coin.
- CC mint mark: The CC mint mark is a mint mark that was used for Morgan dollars from the 1870s through 1920s. The CC mint mark is typically struck on the left side of the coin, and it’s usually a small letter or number that is struck on the coin.
- S mint mark: The S mint mark is a mint mark that was used for Morgan dollars from the 1870s through 1920s. The S mint mark is typically struck on the right side of the coin, and it’s usually a small letter or number that is struck on the coin.
When examining the coin, I look for the die markers and compare them to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. If the die markers are different than the known die markers, the coin is likely a fake or has been altered. If the die markers match the known die markers, the coin is likely genuine. The collectibility of a coin is directly tied to its die markers, and this is one of the most reliable ways to verify authenticity.
Common Fakes and Counterfeits in Early ANACS Photo Certificates
When counterfeiting early ANACS photo certificates, the most common techniques are to use a counterfeit coin that has been altered or struck with a different die. When I examine a coin for counterfeits, I look for the following indicators:
First, I look for the coin’s weight. If the coin’s weight is different than the expected weight for its date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake. For example, a coin that has been altered to weigh less than its expected weight is a fake. When I examine the coin, I look for the weight and compare it to the expected weight for the specific date and mint mark. If the weight is different, the coin is likely a fake.
Second, I look for the coin’s magnetic properties. If the coin is magnetized, it’s likely a fake. When I examine the coin, I look for the magnetic properties and compare them to the expected magnetic properties for the specific date and mint mark. If the magnetic properties are different, the coin is likely a fake.
Third, I look for the coin’s die markers. If the coin’s die markers are different than the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake. When I examine the coin, I look for the die markers and compare them to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. If the die markers are different, the coin is likely a fake.
Fourth, I look for the coin’s surface. If the coin’s surface is different than the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake. When I examine the coin, I look for the surface and compare it to the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark. If the surface is different, the coin is likely a fake.
Fifth, I look for the coin’s edge. If the coin’s edge is different than the expected edge for the specific date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake. When I examine the coin, I look for the edge and compare it to the expected edge for the specific date and mint mark. If the edge is different, the coin is likely a fake.
How to Spot a Fake: A Step-by-Step Guide
When I examine a coin for counterfeits, I follow a systematic process. First, I examine the coin’s weight. If the coin’s weight is different than the expected weight for its date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake. Second, I examine the coin’s magnetic properties. If the coin is magnetized, it’s likely a fake. Third, I examine the coin’s die markers. If the coin’s die markers are different than the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake. Fourth, I examine the coin’s surface. If the coin’s surface is different than the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake. Fifth, I examine the coin’s edge. If the coin’s edge is different than the expected edge for the specific date and mint mark, the coin is likely a fake.
When I examine the coin, I also look for the presence of a counterfeit. If the coin has been altered or struck with a different die, the coin is likely a counterfeit. If the coin has been altered or struck with a different die, the coin is likely a counterfeit. If the coin has been altered or struck with a different die, the coin is likely a counterfeit.
Testing Methods: A Practical Approach
When I’m examining a coin for authentication, I use a combination of testing methods. The most important testing methods are weight, magnetic properties, die markers, and surface examination. Each of these methods is a diagnostic that can be used to determine whether a coin is genuine or fake.
For weight testing, I use a precise digital scale. I weigh the coin and compare it to the expected weight for the specific date and mint mark. If the weight is different, the coin is likely a fake. For magnetic testing, I use a magnet to test the coin for magnetization. If the coin is magnetized, it’s likely a fake. For die marker testing, I examine the coin’s die markers and compare them to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. If the die markers are different, the coin is likely a fake. For surface examination, I examine the coin’s surface and compare it to the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark. If the surface is different, the coin is likely a fake.
When I’m examining the coin, I also use a combination of testing methods to confirm my findings. For example, if the coin’s weight is different than the expected weight for its date and mint mark, I also examine the coin’s magnetic properties and die markers. If the coin’s magnetic properties are different than the expected magnetic properties for the specific date and mint mark, I also examine the coin’s surface and edge. If the coin’s surface is different than the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark, I also examine the coin’s edge. If the coin’s edge is different than the expected edge for the specific date and mint mark, I also examine the coin’s weight. By using a combination of testing methods, I can confirm my findings and determine whether the coin is genuine or fake.
For the specific coin in the forum discussion, the testing methods were a critical diagnostic. If the coin’s weight was different than the expected weight for its date and mint mark, the coin was likely a fake. If the coin’s magnetic properties were different than the expected magnetic properties for the specific date and mint mark, the coin was likely a fake. If the coin’s die markers were different than the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark, the coin was likely a fake. If the coin’s surface was different than the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark, the coin was likely a fake. If the coin’s edge was different than the expected edge for the specific date and mint mark, the coin was likely a fake.
Conclusion: What You Need to Know to Authenticate an Early ANACS Photo Certificate
When you’re examining an early ANACS photo certificate, you need to know the specific diagnostic points for this item. The most important diagnostic points are weight, magnetic properties, die markers, and surface examination. When you examine the coin, you look for the weight, the magnetic properties, the die markers, and the surface. When you examine the coin, you look for the weight and compare it to the expected weight for the specific date and mint mark. When you examine the coin, you look for the magnetic properties and compare them to the expected magnetic properties for the specific date and mint mark. When you examine the coin, you look for the die markers and compare them to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. When you examine the coin, you look for the surface and compare it to the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark.
By using these diagnostic points, you can authenticate an early ANACS photo certificate and determine whether the coin is genuine or fake. The coin in the forum discussion was a 1878 Morgan dollar with a D mint mark, and the weight, magnetic properties, die markers, and surface were all consistent with a genuine coin. The coin was likely a genuine early ANACS photo certificate, and it was likely a valuable coin that was off the market for approximately 40 years. When you’re examining a coin, you need to be methodical and systematic. You need to examine the coin’s weight, magnetic properties, die markers, and surface. You need to examine the coin’s weight and compare it to the expected weight for the specific date and mint mark. You need to examine the coin’s magnetic properties and compare them to the expected magnetic properties for the specific date and mint mark. You need to examine the coin’s die markers and compare them to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. You need to examine the coin’s surface and compare it to the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark. By using these diagnostic points, you can authenticate an early ANACS photo certificate and determine whether the coin is genuine or fake.
When you’re examining a coin, you need to be patient and methodical. You need to examine the coin’s weight, magnetic properties, die markers, and surface. You need to examine the coin’s weight and compare it to the expected weight for the specific date and mint mark. You need to examine the coin’s magnetic properties and compare them to the expected magnetic properties for the specific date and mint mark. You need to examine the coin’s die markers and compare them to the known die markers for the specific date and mint mark. You need to examine the coin’s surface and compare it to the expected surface for the specific date and mint mark. By using these diagnostic points, you can authenticate an early ANACS photo certificate and determine whether the coin is genuine or fake.
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