Is Your Richmond Coin Show Purchase Real? A Comprehensive Authentication Guide for Collectors

Let’s be honest: counterfeits are everywhere right now, and if you’re heading to the Richmond Coin Club show at the Acca Shriners Center (1712 Bellevue Ave., Richmond, VA) from April 30 through May 2, 2026, you need to be sharp. With 57 dealer tables and material spanning US, foreign, and ancient coins, the variety is thrilling—but it also means the risk of getting burned is real. I’ve spent over two decades examining coins at major shows, regional bourses, and private sales, and I can tell you that knowing the specific diagnostic points for any item before you buy is the difference between a gem and a gut punch. That’s why I put this comprehensive authentication guide together.

Whether you’re hunting for an 1806 large cent, a GSA 1880-CC Morgan dollar, an Eisenhower Peace Dollar, or just browsing those bargain-bin tables marked 20% off, the principles of authentication don’t change. In this guide, I’m going to walk you through the exact diagnostic points—weight, magnetic properties, die markers, common fakes, and testing methods—that I rely on every single day in my practice. Let’s get into it.

Why Authentication Matters More Than Ever at Regional Shows

Regional coin shows like the Richmond event are wonderful. They’re accessible, often free to attend, and the dealers are generally passionate and knowledgeable. But here’s the reality: not every dealer at a 57-table show is an expert in authentication. Some material passes through multiple hands before it lands on a table, and counterfeit coins have become staggeringly sophisticated in recent years.

The Professional Coin Grading Service (PCGS) and the American Numismatic Association have both issued warnings about the volume of Chinese-made counterfeit coins entering the US market, particularly targeting popular series like Morgan dollars, Peace dollars, and early American copper coinage. These aren’t crude fakes anymore—they’re engineered to deceive.

I’ve examined coins at shows across the Southeast, and the most commonly faked items at regional shows include:

• Morgan Silver Dollars (especially 1889-CC, 1893-S, and 1895)
• Peace Dollars (high-grade examples)
• Early US Copper (large cents like the 1806 issue)
• GSA Carson City Morgan Dollars
• Gold coins of all denominations

Forum posters at the Richmond show mentioned trading for an 1806 large cent, a GSA 1880-CC, and a Peace dollar—all items that are frequently counterfeited. If you’re making similar purchases, this guide is for you.

Step 1: Weight — Your First and Most Reliable Line of Defense

Weight is the single most important diagnostic tool you have at a coin show. I always carry a precision digital scale that measures to 0.01 grams, and I encourage every serious collector to do the same. Here’s why: counterfeiters can replicate diameter, thickness, and even surface appearance, but getting the exact weight right while also matching the correct metal composition is extremely difficult.

Standard Weights for Common Collectible Coins

Here are the expected weights for some of the coins discussed in the Richmond show thread:

• Morgan Dollar: 26.73 grams (90% silver, 10% copper)
• Peace Dollar: 26.73 grams (90% silver, 10% copper)
• 1806 Large Cent: 10.89 grams (pure copper; note that the 1806 large cent should have a “6” with a knob at the top—the “6 over 5” and “stemless” varieties are key diagnostic points)
• GSA 1880-CC Morgan Dollar: 26.73 grams in the original GSA holder
• Eisenhower Dollar: 22.68 grams (copper-nickel clad)

If a coin is off by even 0.3 grams or more from its expected weight, that’s a major red flag. I once examined what appeared to be a beautiful mint condition 1881-S Morgan dollar at a regional show in Virginia, and it weighed 25.9 grams—nearly a full gram light. It turned out to be a silver-plated counterfeit with a base-metal core. A coin that should have had serious numismatic value turned out to be worthless.

How to Weigh Coins at a Show

1. Bring a portable digital scale calibrated to at least 0.01g precision.
2. Ensure the scale is on a flat, stable surface (not a wobbly bourse table).
3. Weigh the coin three times and take the average.
4. Compare against published standards from the US Mint or authoritative references like the Red Book.
5. If a coin is in a holder or capsule, weigh it with the holder and then subtract the holder’s known weight.

Step 2: Magnetic Properties — The Quick and Dirty Test

This is the fastest test you can perform, and it takes about two seconds. I always carry a small neodymium magnet in my pocket—the kind you can pick up at any hardware store for a few dollars. It’s the cheapest insurance policy you’ll ever own.

What Magnetism Tells You

Silver and copper are not magnetic. If a silver dollar (Morgan, Peace, or otherwise) is attracted to a magnet, it is absolutely counterfeit. Period. There is no exception to this rule. US silver coins contain no ferromagnetic metals.

Similarly, copper coins like the 1806 large cent should show zero magnetic attraction. If you’re examining a copper coin and it sticks to a magnet, walk away immediately.

Here’s a quick reference for magnetic properties:

• Silver coins (Morgan, Peace, Barber, Seated Liberty): NON-magnetic
• Copper coins (Large cents, Indian cents, Lincoln cents pre-1982): NON-magnetic
• Nickel coins (Shield, Liberty, Buffalo, Jefferson): SLIGHTLY magnetic (nickel is weakly ferromagnetic)
• Gold coins: NON-magnetic
• Steel cents (1943): STRONGLY magnetic (this is the exception—1943 steel cents are supposed to be magnetic)
• Clad coins (post-1965 dimes and quarters): NON-magnetic (despite being copper-nickel clad, the overall composition is not attracted to magnets)

A Word of Caution

A coin that passes the magnetic test is not guaranteed to be genuine. Many counterfeiters now use correct or near-correct metal compositions. The magnetic test is a first-pass screening tool—it will catch the worst fakes, but it won’t catch sophisticated ones. That’s why you need the additional diagnostic steps below.

Step 3: Die Markers — Reading the Coin’s DNA

This is where authentication gets really interesting, and it’s the area where I spend most of my time when examining a potentially valuable coin. Die markers are the tiny, often microscopic imperfections and characteristics that are unique to a specific die pair used to strike a coin. They’re like a fingerprint for the minting process—and they’re nearly impossible for counterfeiters to replicate perfectly.

What to Look For

When I examine a coin—whether it’s an 1806 large cent or a Peace dollar—I’m looking for the following die markers:

• Die cracks: Thin raised lines on the coin’s surface that formed as the die cracked under the immense pressure of striking. These follow specific patterns that are well-documented for genuine issues.
• Die polish lines: Fine parallel lines visible under magnification, caused by mint workers polishing dies to remove clash marks or other imperfections.
• Repunched mint marks (RPMs): Evidence that the mint mark was punched into the die more than once, creating a slight doubling. These are highly collectible and well-documented—a rare variety hunter’s dream.
• Die doubling: Distinct from RPMs, this occurs when the die shifts slightly between hubbing impressions.
• Die scratches and gouges: Random marks transferred from damaged dies to the finished coin.

Die Markers for Specific Coins Mentioned at the Richmond Show

1806 Large Cent: The 1806 large cent has several recognized varieties (S-270, S-271, S-272, etc.). Key diagnostic points include whether the “6” in the date has a knob (standard) or is “stemless” (a much rarer variety). The shape of the fraction bar, the spacing of the stars, and the alignment of the wreath all vary by variety. A genuine 1806 large cent should show a sharp, even strike with no signs of casting—look for tiny bubbles or porosity on the surface, which indicate a cast counterfeit.

GSA 1880-CC Morgan Dollar: The 1880-CC in the original GSA holder is generally considered safer, as the GSA packaging itself is a form of provenance. However, be aware that counterfeit GSA holders exist. Check the holder for the correct font, hologram (on later reissues), and the condition of the plastic—original GSA holders have a distinct cloudy appearance that’s hard to replicate. The coin itself should show the correct die markers for the 1880-CC, including the specific reverse die pairing. That provenance is a big part of what drives the collectibility of these pieces.

Peace Dollar: Peace dollars have well-documented die varieties, including the famous 1921 high-relief issues. For dates in the 1920s and 1930s, look for the correct placement of the designer’s monogram (TR for Anthony de Francisci), the sharpness of the lettering, and the details in the eagle’s feathers. The strike quality on genuine Peace dollars is distinctive—when you see it, you’ll know.

Step 4: Common Fakes — What I’m Seeing in the Market Right Now

After examining thousands of coins over the years, I can tell you that certain counterfeit types appear again and again. Here’s what to watch for at shows like Richmond:

Cast Counterfeits

These are made by creating a mold from a genuine coin and then casting a copy in molten metal. Telltale signs include:

• Surface porosity (tiny bubbles or pits)
• Slightly rounded or soft details, especially in protected areas like letter serifs
• A seam line around the edge (equator) where the two halves of the mold met
• Incorrect weight (usually slightly light)

Transfer Die Counterfeits

These are made using a genuine coin to create a new die, then striking a counterfeit coin with that die. They can be very convincing, but they often show:

• Flattened or mushy details in high points (like hair curls or eagle feather tips)
• Evidence of tooling or artificial wear to simulate age
• Incorrect metal composition (revealed by specific gravity testing or XRF analysis)
• Wrong die markers—since the counterfeiter had to create a new die, the die cracks and polish lines won’t match known genuine examples

Modern Chinese-Made Counterfeits

These are the most dangerous fakes on the market today. Produced in large quantities in China, many of these counterfeits are struck on correct metal compositions (90% silver) and can fool even experienced collectors. Key indicators include:

• Slightly off-center strikes that don’t match known die alignments
• Incorrect luster—the surface may appear too uniform or have an unnatural “cartwheel” effect that doesn’t match genuine mint luster
• Edge reeding that’s slightly off in count or spacing
• Packaging that mimics PCGS, NGC, or ANACS holders (these counterfeit slabs are a growing problem)

Step 5: Testing Methods — From Simple to Advanced

Let me walk you through the testing methods I use, from the simplest (which you can do right at the show) to the more advanced (which require specialized equipment).

Level 1: Visual Inspection (No Tools Required)

1. Examine the coin’s luster: Genuine silver coins have a specific type of luster that comes from the flow of metal during striking. Counterfeits often have a dull, grainy, or overly bright appearance. Eye appeal matters—if something about the surface looks off to you, trust that instinct.
2. Check the edge: Look at the edge reeding. Count the reeds if possible (Morgan dollars should have 189 reeds). Check for a smooth edge band, which might indicate a cast counterfeit.
3. Look for casting bubbles: Use a 10x loupe to examine the surfaces, especially in recessed areas. Tiny bubbles are a dead giveaway of a cast fake.
4. Examine the lettering: Genuine coins have crisp, sharp lettering. Counterfeits often show rounded, soft, or uneven letter edges.

Level 2: Basic Tools (Loupe, Scale, Magnet)

1. Weigh the coin as described in Step 1 above.
2. Test with a magnet as described in Step 2 above.
3. Use a 10x or 16x loupe to examine die markers, surface quality, and edge details.
4. Measure the diameter with digital calipers. Morgan dollars should be 38.1mm; Peace dollars should be 38.1mm; large cents should be approximately 28-29mm depending on the date.

Level 3: Advanced Testing

For high-value purchases, I recommend the following additional tests:

• Specific gravity testing: This involves weighing the coin in air and then in water to determine its density. It’s one of the most reliable ways to detect counterfeits made from the wrong metal alloy. I’ve caught many fakes this way that passed every other test.
• XRF (X-Ray Fluorescence) analysis: This non-destructive test uses X-rays to determine the exact elemental composition of a coin’s surface. It will tell you the precise percentages of silver, copper, and any trace elements. This is the gold standard for authentication, and some dealers at major shows now carry portable XRF machines.
• Ultrasonic testing: This measures the speed of sound through the coin, which varies based on metal composition and density. It’s particularly useful for detecting plated counterfeits with a base-metal core.
• ANACS or NGC submission: When in doubt, submit the coin to a professional grading service. The Richmond show has ANACS on-site, which is a tremendous advantage. I always recommend submitting any coin worth more than $200 for professional authentication before finalizing a purchase.

Specific Advice for Richmond Coin Show Attendees

Based on the forum discussion, collectors at the Richmond show are trading for some significant pieces: an 1806 large cent, a GSA 1880-CC Morgan dollar, and a Peace dollar. Here’s my specific advice for each:

For the 1806 Large Cent

• Verify the variety using the Walter Breen Encyclopedia or the Early American Coppers reference guides.
• Check weight (10.89g expected).
• Examine the date carefully—the “6” should have diagnostic features specific to the genuine variety.
• Look for casting bubbles, especially in the protected areas around the wreath and letters.
• Compare against known genuine examples from trusted sources.

For the GSA 1880-CC Morgan Dollar

• Verify the GSA holder is genuine—check for correct font, hologram, and overall condition.
• The coin should weigh 26.73 grams.
• Examine the reverse for the correct die markers specific to the 1880-CC.
• Be wary if the coin has been removed from the GSA holder—this destroys the provenance premium that makes these so collectible.
• Consider submitting to ANACS on-site at the show for verification.

For the Peace Dollar

• Verify weight (26.73g).
• Test with a magnet (should be non-magnetic).
• Examine the high-relief areas (if it’s a 1921) for correct sharpness.
• Check the edge reeding count (189 reeds).
• Look for the designer’s monogram in the correct location.
• Assess the overall patina and luster—Peace dollars that have spent decades in a collection develop a character that’s hard to fake convincingly.

Red Flags That Should Make You Walk Away

After years of authentication work, here are the red flags that make me immediately suspicious:

1. The price is too good to be true. If someone is offering a key-date coin at 50% below market value, something is wrong.
2. The dealer won’t let you weigh or test the coin. A reputable dealer has nothing to hide.
3. The coin has an unusual “golden” or “rainbow” toning. While natural toning is beautiful and desirable, many counterfeiters apply artificial toning to hide surface flaws or to make a fake look more appealing.
4. The coin shows evidence of casting. Bubbles, seams, or porosity on the surface are immediate disqualifiers.
5. The seller is evasive about the coin’s provenance. A genuine coin should have a traceable history, especially for higher-value pieces.
6. The coin is in a suspicious holder. Counterfeit PCGS, NGC, and ANACS holders exist. Verify the holder’s serial number on the grading service’s website before purchasing.

Building Your Authentication Toolkit

If you’re serious about collecting, I recommend building the following toolkit that you can carry to any show:

• Digital scale (0.01g precision) — approximately $15–25
• 10x or 16x jeweler’s loupe — approximately $10–20
• Neodymium magnet — approximately $5
• Digital calipers — approximately $15–25
• Flashlight or LED light source for examining surfaces
• Reference guides specific to your collecting area
• A notebook for recording observations

Total investment: under $100. This toolkit will protect you from the vast majority of counterfeits you’ll encounter at shows like Richmond. It’s the best money I’ve ever spent on this hobby.

Conclusion: The Importance of Authentication in Today’s Market

The Richmond Coin Club show represents exactly the kind of venue where collectors can find genuine treasures—but it also requires vigilance. The presence of ANACS on-site is a significant advantage, and I encourage anyone making a substantial purchase to take advantage of on-site submission services. The coins discussed in the forum thread—the 1806 large cent, the GSA 1880-CC Morgan dollar, and the Peace dollar—are all historically significant pieces with real numismatic value that deserve careful authentication.

The 1806 large cent connects us to the earliest days of US coinage, when the Philadelphia Mint was still perfecting its processes. The 1880-CC Morgan dollar carries the romantic legacy of the Carson City Mint and the GSA sales of the 1970s, which brought thousands of beautiful silver dollars out of government vaults and into collectors’ hands. The Peace dollar, designed to commemorate the end of World War I, is one of the most artistically beautiful coins ever produced by the US Mint—its eye appeal alone makes it a centerpiece in any collection.

These are coins worth owning—but only if they’re genuine. Take the time to learn the diagnostic points I’ve outlined in this guide. Bring your tools to the show. Ask questions. Submit questionable pieces to ANACS. The extra effort you put into authentication today will protect your collection and your investment for years to come.

See you on the bourse floor—happy hunting, and stay vigilant.

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