Mint Error or Damaged? Decoding the Funky Mint Mark on a 1979‑S Susan B. Anthony Dollar – Planchet Flaws vs. Post‑Mint Damage

Is that a rare lamination flaw, or did someone just scratch it with a screwdriver? Let’s break down how to tell the difference.

1. The Coin Under Examination

The coin that sparked the discussion on the 1979-S Susan B. Anthony dollar showed an unusual mark near the rim. At first glance, it could be a planchet flaw from the mint itself — or damage that happened long after the coin left the United States Mint. My first instinct? Pick it up under good light and really study what you’re looking at.

I’ve handled hundreds of these dollars over the years. The ones with genuine mint errors always tell a different story than the ones that took a tumble in a coin roll. Here’s how I separate the two.

2. What Are Planchet Flaws?

A planchet flaw happens before the coin is even struck. Think about it — the blank disc of metal, or planchet, can come from the mill with a lamination crack, a pit, or a weak strike. These aren’t choices. They’re the result of the manufacturing process.

When I examine a coin for mint condition, I look for these telltale signs:

• Lamination flakes that appear to be under the surface, not on top.
• Soft, rounded edges around any discoloration — the coin’s luster flows around them naturally.
• Missing metal that looks “blown out” from the striking pressure, not gouged.

These flaws can absolutely affect a coin’s numismatic value. In some cases, they make a rare variety even rarer. A 1979-S dollar with a confirmed planchet crack? That’s a piece collectors actively hunt for.

3. Recognizing Post-Mint Damage

Now here’s where things get tricky. Post-mint damage — or PMD — covers everything that happens after the coin is released. Scratches, dents, cleaning, toning from improper storage. The eye appeal drops fast.

Here’s what I look for when I suspect damage rather than a mint error:

• Sharp, straight-line scratches — nature doesn’t make right edges.
• Discoloration that sits on top of the surface, dulling the original patina.
• Metal that looks crumpled or pushed inward, like the coin took a hit.

One trick I’ve used for years: rotate the coin under a flashlight. Genuine mint flaws cast shadows that follow the coin’s natural topography. Damage often catches light differently — it’s abrupt, it’s foreign, and it breaks the flow of the design.

4. Why the Distinction Matters

Let’s be honest. The difference between a mint error and damaged coin can mean the difference between a five-dollar piece and a fifty-dollar piece. Collectibility hinges on it. A coin with confirmed provenance — a documented history of its origin — commands respect in any market.

I once graded a 1979-S dollar that had a small lamination mark at 7 o’clock. The owner thought it was damage. Under magnification, I saw the fracture lines radiating from within the planchet layers. It was a genuine mint error. That coin moved three times its expected price.

5. My Practical Tips for You

You don’t need a laboratory to start making better judgments. Here’s what works for me at the table:

1. Use a stereo microscope or a loupe at 10x. Surface texture tells you everything.
2. Compare it to known mint error references. The Red Book and online registries are your friends.
3. Trust your gut on eye appeal. If something looks “off,” it probably is. A coin’s beauty — or lack of it — is the first signal.
4. Get a second opinion. Send it to a reputable grading service if you’re on the fence. Provenance and certification add long-term value.

At the end of the day, every coin has a story. My job is to figure out whether that story was written at the mint or written by a messy handful of change in someone’s pocket. The 1979-S Susan B. Anthony dollar might be small and silver, but the mysteries hiding inside it? Those are worth every minute you spend looking.

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